Major engine mods, suggestions/experience ?

If you eliminate forced induction, your best return for your money is gearing and a remap. The auto dif swap is relatively inexpensive as mods go, should be easy to find a Z that's been crashed. Mapping, again as mods go, should also be relatively inexpensive. Together you should feel an improvement in acceleration, but it will not take your breath away.

It is possible to upgrade your 3.0i to the Si and pick up some ponies there, -c- on another forum has done this and did an excellent job of documenting the steps and results. If you find a crashed donor car for parts, cost is less.

Like most of us, the desire for horsepower and handling is there with the consequence of finances being the limiting factor. Where the balance point falls depends on your priorities.
 
ESS I believe is the most tried and tested one.... I would love to attempt a TS2 install myself along with brakes then a year later have a garage upgrade it to TS3. The problem is as other have said insurance. I would also love to hear if anyone has been quoted before and after for the mod then for a Z4M... Guess im being lazy and should do that!

http://www.esstuning.com/products/M54B30-Twin-Screw-Stage-2-(TS2).html --- 345HP / 430NM

http://www.esstuning.com/products/M54B30-TS3-14PSI-Upgrade-Kit.html?setCurrencyId=2 463HP / 540NM :!:

After doing all that you would likely want limited slip diff etc .... i'm quite a attached to my car and want to keep it as a weekend warrior when i buy something newer and practical (as the fiance says) haha but the wallet says Z4M would be the better route if wanting more power as you get all the other little trimmings.
 
Would love to add an ESS to mine, but the admission price versus swapping the car for an M simply doesn't make any sense IMHO.
 
I read somewhere a few weeks ago on a website saying about increased engine displacement mod - from what I understand basically boring it out to a 3.3, didn't list a cost but proclaimed pushing the engine up to the 280/290bhp area. Anyone know/done anything like this or for the cost the gains are somewhat exaggerated ?
 
Rossm09 said:
I read somewhere a few weeks ago on a website saying about increased engine displacement mod - from what I understand basically boring it out to a 3.3, didn't list a cost but proclaimed pushing the engine up to the 280/290bhp area. Anyone know/done anything like this or for the cost the gains are somewhat exaggerated ?

Alpina did it for the Roadster-S, getting 300hp out of it...
 
increasing the engine displacement, has to be done by a shop that know's there stuf or else you just mess up your engine. and by that a supercharger is more efficient, even on my 2.5 the ts2 would bring it to 320 bhp, witch is the best bang for buck.
 
What about s50 conversion, the engine inc. all cost less than 2k ,

Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2
 
i have no intention of doing much although im interested as i bought this car to replace my westy with a more useable convertable. but the comment about the race engine made me think about what people do to their westys.

so beforei suggest something im making an assumption that the induction on this car is a pretty standard system with 1 large throttle body.

Has anyone thought of sacking off the inlet/fueling system entirely and replacing with individual throttle bodies and a bespoke ECU.

i did this on my ford zetec engine. i chucked away all of the ford system (everything from block outwards) and used a set of 45mm jenvey throttle bodies. it was controlled by a OMEX ecu that needed just a crank position sensor,Lamda (for emissions and tbf this turns itself off over 2500rpm), throttle pot and temp sensor. the result on a stadard stock engine was measured on a rolling road as 160bhp at the wheels.

the mapping at first needed tewaking but the car was very drivable on the road peak torque came in early and lasted all the way up to 7K revs but dropped off before the 7.5K limit

the noise was awsome if not annoying over time as the induction and short exhaust meant it was high at 103db


edt whats an s50 conversion?
 
domsz4, S50 is the engine code of the E36 M3's engine. It put out something like 280hp in 3.0lt guise (S50B30) and 320 in 3.2lt (S50B32).

As for something similar to what you're describing, i dont know how much it cost for the Westfield but for the Bimmer it'd be a lot! You'd have to go bespoke on pretty much everything.

*edited with correct S50 engine info
 
ahh right, sounds easier to do the s50 then.

for the zetec install (into anything) i would say 3K would do it, less if you dont use an omex ecu. im guessing here the manifold would probably be the thing you couldnt buy but tbf they arnt that much to get done as some poeple use bike throttle bodies from a gsxr which need to be spaced individually. i think it would be interesting to find out as i was supprised how much i didnt need from the oem engine and as i was sacking off the oem ecu i didnt need to worry about silly sensors. obviously on this car you would want the ABS etc but im guessing the engine/ignition ecu is separate so by replacing it. there is one german kit car place trying to use our engine but its a bit big for a 7 type car so doesnt fit well.

its probably more suited to do if you want a track car as you wouldnt need to worry about emissions/insurance etc but i recon doable prob similar to someone suggesting shoving a LS3 engine in.
 
For me the sport button does make a great difference... helps out particularly off the line as it goes straight away, much less lag than normal.

It's a shame there's not that much to be done really... i had an MX5 before - the MK1 1.8 but that was a pretty low torque engine, and owners were always looking for more power. I think no matter what you had you'd always want more!
 
I'm new to this forum, but I've been around on Zpost, Bimmerforums, and Bimmerfest. A lot of the Euro laws and Z4 models are slightly different, so I apologize in advance for my lack of exposure to them. Below is for the M54B30 engine found in the 2003-2005 U.S. model Z4. If you have the N52 engine, you may as well forget power mods (I can explain why if need be).

First, getting any real NA power is going to be very difficult with the 3.0i. Torque x rpm / 5252 = horsepower. This means that you can get more power by either increasing the torque or raising the rpm... make a bigger explosion or make more explosions happen in a shorter period of time. The M54 suffers from severe crankshaft harmonics that cause the oil pump nut to come off (or the shaft to shear) with repeated runs above 6k rpm. When this happens, you lose all oil pressure (and your engine). The only proven fix is a $3k BMW Motorsport oil system. Then, you're still limited by the hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters use oil pressure to open and close the valves, and there's a slight ramp/delay as they open and close. A solid lifter conversion (like what the M's use) will run you $$, and you'll need a tune. You'll want some hotter NA cams ($1400 + 7 hours labor) to take advantage of the raised redline, and possibly lose torque down low where the car is now less efficient... not worth it to try to raise the redline in the end.

If you're not increasing the redline, you need to increase the torque to get more power. So let's look at increasing torque. A NA engine of a certain displacement will only make a certain amount of torque. This means you need to increase the displacement of the engine, either through increasing the stroke or bore. The engine already has a long stroke, so you can't really increase the stroke further without causing a lot of side forces on the piston (prematurely wearing the rings), increasing crankshaft inertia, and having a piston speed that's off the charts... basically, an engine that won't last more than a few races. And, a stroker kit involves a new crank, which is extremely expensive and labor-intensive.

You can't simply bore the engine, because the M54's aluminum block has steel sleeves. You'll need new sleeves, custom pistons and tune; even then you're weakening the block. You can only bore it out so far. The labor would be astronomical.

Exhaust - A catless exhaust is illegal in the U.S., and I'd assume it's probably illegal where you are too. If the Euro Z4's are like the U.S. Z4's, the cats are in the headers. Swapping them out for some high quality aftermarket headers (I personally have ceramic coated Supersprint headers) will yield quite a bit of power (15-20 hp). But, a full Supersprint exhaust is very expensive... and again, may not be legal where you are.

Tunes - I used to have the Conforti Shark Injector on my 3.0i before I supercharged the car. I loved it, but mainly for the throttle remap (made it more intuitive rather than more sensitive) and raised redline to 7k rpm (more time in each gear). You'll get a dyno-proven 5-10 whp out of it. You won't get much more than that out of a mail order tune.

Intakes - Aftermarket air intakes add very little power. They're mainly for sound. I used to have a "CAI" on my 3.0i, and I took it off because I noticed no performance change whatsoever.

The last thing you can do on the NA side is raise the compression. This means new pistons and possibly requires the use of high octane race gas at all times. All the heat in the cylinder's volume of air is now compressed into a smaller space, so the fuel is injected into a hotter medium. In order to avoid having it blow up prematurely, you'll have to run high octane petrol.

If I was to do NA mods, I would opt for exhaust, tune, and cams. All in all, you can get maybe 30-35 hp. You'll have to really wring out your engine to see that power.

Is it all bad news? What's there to do? Get an M? No. Forced induction! The M54 has a 10.2:1 compression ratio and it shares its forged crank with the E36 M3 (which have seen over 500 whp in certain applications). In a sense, the 3.0 liter M54 engine is a bit overbuilt. The car is begging for a low-boost supercharger or turbo setup. I run a VF Engineering supercharger kit at 6 psi, mainly because it was the right price at the right time. ESS has the best option IMHO (twin screw setup), because max boost is available from ~2800 to redline. A centrifugal supercharger makes max boost AT redline, and ONLY at redline, since the speed at which it spins is based on engine speed. Twin screw superchargers aren't quite as efficient as the rpm climbs, but they are a good match for the M54 engine. ESS also offer several stages of upgrades, because you WILL want more power.

A 330i stage 2 Technique Tuning turbo kit custom adapted to your Z4 would be even better than the ESS kit. TT uses a thicker headgasket to lower compression, so you can make 450 bhp with a bolt on turbo kit. It's less noticeable too, although I have heard of people sneaking the ESS kit through inspection.

A little history about myself - I've owned a Z4 3.0i for the past 6 years, and a Z4M for the last 3 years. My non-M has about $12k in modifications, mostly used performance parts; new they would be more than double the price. I've researched anything and everything with regards to making it faster. As it sits, it's about as quick as a stock M, but it's a totally different car. You can't turn a non-M into an M... you can put down similar numbers, but the feel is totally different. That's a whole discussion in and of itself.

My advice - only buy an M if you want an M. The M will always be better on the track and have more performance potential. The M feels different, and is a more difficult daily drive. I've said before that it's always talking to you, and sometimes yelling :thumbsup: . By adding a supercharger to your current car, it will retain all of the things you like - the feel won't change, the handling will remain the same, and the braking won't be altered. The car remains completely and totally YOUR car. The only things that will change are the sound (subjectively MUCH cooler) and the acceleration (WOW!).
 
On engine swaps - Swaps require a custom wiring harness and A LOT of work. If you're going through the trouble of swapping in an engine, why stop with an S50 or S52? Get the S54... which is the same engine as the Z4M. At that point you may as well buy a Z4M because it will likely cost less, and the car won't be Frankensteined into something crazy that no one knows how to work on. It won't have the gremlins either.

Diff swaps are a great way to get more acceleration at the expense of highway gas mileage and top speed. Because the engine will be running at a higher rpm and you'll have to shift more, you'll induce slightly more wear and tear. Any of the E46 3-series diffs will swap right into the pre-facelift Z4 3.0i. All U.S.-spec pre-facelift Z4 models have interchangeable diffs. I'd recommend a 3.46 for a 3.0i.

3.46 / 3.07 = 1.127

Your car will accelerate as if it has 12.7% more hp, but will redline 12.7% sooner. Highway rpm will be 12.7% higher than at a similar speed with your current 3.07 final drive ratio.

Acceleration times don't tell the whole story. A car can have a slower 0-60 time but out-accelerate a car that has a faster 0-60 time. Races are about DISTANCE COVERED over time, not speed attained over time. Think of it like this - two cars are traveling along at different speeds - one at 50 mph and another at 10 mph. As one overtakes the other, time starts. After 9 seconds of driving along at their current speeds, both cars start accelerating towards 60 mph. At time = 10 seconds (1 second later), car 1 goes from 50 to 60 mph and car 2 goes from 10 mph to 60 mph. Both took 10 seconds to reach 60 mph, but the first car will be hundreds of feet ahead of the second car. With a diff swap, you may have to shift again before reaching 60 mph, but while you're shifting your car isn't stopped - it's moving along at 55 mph, a speed which a 3.07-equipped car still wouldn't have attained. Again, it's not about the speed you attain at the end of time, it's about the distance you cover in that time.
 
Great posts pokeybritches, especially for your first contributions to the Forum. Welcome and look forward to seeing pics and hearing more about your cars :thumbsup:
 
original guvnor said:
Great posts pokeybritches, especially for your first contributions to the Forum. Welcome and look forward to seeing pics and hearing more about your cars :thumbsup:

+1 that was a great read.

Now if only there were FI options on the N52 :driving:
 
True enough these NA engine whether N53 or S54 are not easy to tune gor more bhp...

Easier to get more dound and feel line yoƻre going faster!
 
Great write up PB and welcome...begs the question though, what have you done to the ///M? :D
 
Thanks for the compliments!

BMWZ4MC said:
Great write up PB and welcome...begs the question though, what have you done to the ///M? :D

I've put a deposit down for a G-Power supercharger kit. The car will be complete sometime in March or April after I return from overseas, with Supersprint V1 stepped headers and a custom Supersprint Section 1 with HJS high flow cats welded in. Other than that I have:

AA tune
aFe intake (for sound)
Rogue Diablo exhaust
Apex ARC-8 wheels in satin black
Michelin Pilot SS 235/265
Hardtop
DICE iPod integration
Matte grills
Stubby antenna
Carbon Fiber Emblems

The non-M encompassed the bulk of my modding. It was my first dive into the mod scene, and I used the M as a benchmark. I bought the 3.0i... craved more power and a LSD after a few years... bought the M... couldn't sell the 3.0i for a fair price... decided it was stupid having a depreciating asset sitting in the driveway while I drove the M, so I turned it into a project car and did everything I'd wanted to do to it. It's a very functional canyon carver, neither a show nor track car.
 
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