M54B25 engine oil consumption - 2.5 model

[zriha]

So, I think I have a problem, but I don't see a problem. Let me explain.
2003. - 198.000 km, works like a charm. I am using Motul 8100 X-cess - BMW LL-01 SAE 5W40 oil (that is something the previous owner used and I just continue).

Last weekend I had a 1.362 km road trip - the temperature was from 5-12 C, I had around 700 km of that trip on the motorway, the rest was a coastal road. Speed - motorway - 140-180 km/h, coastal road - 80-120 km/h.

My service interval is just around the corner, at 200.000 km I will have a general checkup and oil change (oil was changed last year in June at 190.000 km).

The engine doesn't have any oil leaks, no stains below the car, exhaust colour and fumes are really normal, and the car runes perfect.

So, in 1.362 km the car consumed around 1.2 liter of oil that I needed to top up and now it is full. I read a lot of forums, a lot of information about how these engines are oil thirsty. I don't mind toping up the oil, really, and I was thought by the old mechanic who told me that it is normal that the engine uses oil.

What should I do?

Thanks gents!

 

[Zedebee]

That’s quite a long and hot burn, hardly possible in the UK. At nearly 200,000km you’ll inevitably have some wear to the piston rings. Your engine is likely to be in good health, but you will suffer oil consumption on those long runs. Look out for blue smoke as a sign of it getting worse.

 

[Chris_D]

I've experienced high oil consumption in a few M52 and M54 lumps previously.
They are, by nature oil-thirsty as everyone knows but there are things you can do to alleviate the issue such as renewing the PCV system. These can get bunged up over time and become less efficient to the point of failure. Had it twice previously.
Both times I renewed with the Febi 'cold climate' version which has the thicker lagging around the tubing which may prevent condensation build-up in lower temps a bit better.

Doing short journeys is always going to have a detrimental effect on these engines, especially at high mileage.
'Spirited' driving and taking the needle to the redline is always going to burn more oil than usual.
And of course, leaks, which you have stated you don't have, so for you this isn't an issue, but for anyone else who might tap into this thread it's probably wise to mention here that it's one of the most common causes of engine oil-loss.

Intermittent oil-changes are adviseable at high mileages. Don't ask for proof as there isn't any. But for risk-mitigation, relative low cost and peace of mind, why wouldn't you?

 

[zriha]

Thank you gents for your advice and comments. My question is also, should I keep the Motul 5W40 oil, or should I switch to something else?
Regarding oil change, I am always going for 10.000 km or at least once per year. And as this Z4 is not our daily driver, but weekend and vacation ride with making long trips, I think an interval of 10.000 km is enough.

Regarding PCV system, what it means to renew it? Can I buy some kind of a repair kit and just replace everything?

There is no blue smoke on the exhaust, nothing, just regular smoke and after driving it on the highway, I can see a nice white burn on the exhaust, not even black (indicating oil burning).

Well, coming from Mazda MX-5, that didn't drink any oil, I expected that, and I need just to accept this as a normal part of the engine.
For example, my old Mini One R50 (2003.) with 1.6 Tritec (Brazilian) engine and Lohen kit with 130 HP, takes about 0.5 litre of 5W40 oil on 5.000 km and it has 215.000 km on the clock.

 

[Zedebee]

You can check the PCV by detaching the breather pipe at the bottom of the picture. WARNING: if it hasn’t been replaced before, this pipe will be very brittle and is likely to break at the bellows. You can get a new one for about £15.

If it’s clogged up you’ll need to replace the PCV system. A tricky job but the parts are readily available and aren’t expensive. Plenty of “how to” on here.

 

[zriha]

Thanks for the helpmate, first I will order that pipe and then check it out! So if it is like in this picture, then it is time for a new PCV system?

 

[zriha]

So if that is broken I need all this? https://www.ebay.de/itm/DER-REPARATURSATZ-DIE-KURBELGEHAUSEENTLUFTUNG-FUR-BMW-3-E46-M54-B30-M52-B28-X3/133345384159?epid=10017016497&hash=item1f0c0116df:g:nqwAAOSwJTNgJEmQ

Thanks!

 

[Chris_D]

Yes but get the Febi cold climate version I would suggest.

 

[Zedebee]

If you can inspect the pipe without breaking it and it looks OK, don’t mess with the rest of the system. If you do break it, but it looks OK, just replace the broken pipe. It is possible to replace the whole system without taking the manifold off, but not easy. It might not even be possible with the cold climate kit due to the extra lagging on the pipes, but I stand to be corrected.

Given the type of driving you do (long, fast) I would be surprised if this is the problem. Blocked up CCV/PCV is usually caused by short journeys in cold weather where water vapour condenses in the pipes and emulsifies with the oil. Not uncommon in the UK.

 

[Chris_D]

If you can inspect the pipe without breaking it and it looks OK, don’t mess with the rest of the system. If you do break it, but it looks OK, just replace the broken pipe. It is possible to replace the whole system without taking the manifold off, but not easy. It might not even be possible with the cold climate kit due to the extra lagging on the pipes, but I stand to be corrected.

Given the type of driving you do (long, fast) I would be surprised if this is the problem. Blocked up CCV/PCV is usually caused by short journeys in cold weather where water vapour condenses in the pipes and emulsifies with the oil. Not uncommon in the UK.

Pointless to try and inspect one component without replacing the whole system as you could wrongly assume the system is ok just because you didn't happen to spot anything wrong with whichever pipe he removes and then looking for the issue somewhere else. There's just no logic in that. I doubt the OP would manage to remove any of the pipes without them crumbling and breaking especially if they're the originals, in which case you should definitely replace the whole system.
It's also worth advising that CCV/PCV failure is not only due to blockages in the pipes but also that the rubber membrane in the separation valve degrades and ruptures as happened in my case with an M52 system. The pipes were fine and clear but the valve had failed.

Yes, it's difficult to replace but not impossible if you take a bit of time and effort. See if you can find back my monster thread where I document the replacement in my own M54B30 CCV system. It's not a step by step guide but it may help give you some pointers.

 

[zriha]

Thanks, gents, you really help me, but I will leave this job to the professional. I think I will check with my mechanic first, and then go to BMW specialist. I am not confident and don't have tools/garage to do it myself.

Just to be clear, as I am still learning this engine, CCV / PCV failures are different things? But it can result in oil consumption?

 

[Chris_D]

PCV and CCV are the same thing. Just different nomenclature. Positive Crankcase Ventilation / Crank Case Ventilation.

I wasn't that confident when I did mine at first but with some basic tools and watching a few youtube videos and some previous experience with engines in previous BMW's, together with encouragement from forum members I had a go and managed to do it.
The advantage with the zed engines are that you have way more space to work with in the engine bay!

Save yourself some money and have a crack at it yourself!

 

[zriha]

PCV and CCV are the same thing. Just different nomenclature. Positive Crankcase Ventilation / Crank Case Ventilation.

I wasn't that confident when I did mine at first but with some basic tools and watching a few youtube videos and some previous experience with engines in previous BMW's, together with encouragement from forum members I had a go and managed to do it.
The advantage with the zed engines are that you have way more space to work with in the engine bay!

Save yourself some money and have a crack at it yourself!

Thanks for clearing up this for me, well I have some experience with Mini, Mazda and Jeep engines, maybe I will give it a try. Thanks also for encouraging me.

 

[Zedebee]

If you can inspect the pipe without breaking it and it looks OK, don’t mess with the rest of the system. If you do break it, but it looks OK, just replace the broken pipe. It is possible to replace the whole system without taking the manifold off, but not easy. It might not even be possible with the cold climate kit due to the extra lagging on the pipes, but I stand to be corrected.

Given the type of driving you do (long, fast) I would be surprised if this is the problem. Blocked up CCV/PCV is usually caused by short journeys in cold weather where water vapour condenses in the pipes and emulsifies with the oil. Not uncommon in the UK.

Pointless to try and inspect one component without replacing the whole system as you could wrongly assume the system is ok just because you didn't happen to spot anything wrong with whichever pipe he removes and then looking for the issue somewhere else. There's just no logic in that. I doubt the OP would manage to remove any of the pipes without them crumbling and breaking especially if they're the originals, in which case you should definitely replace the whole system.
It's also worth advising that CCV/PCV failure is not only due to blockages in the pipes but also that the rubber membrane in the separation valve degrades and ruptures as happened in my case with an M52 system. The pipes were fine and clear but the valve had failed.

Yes, it's difficult to replace but not impossible if you take a bit of time and effort. See if you can find back my monster thread where I document the replacement in my own M54B30 CCV system. It's not a step by step guide but it may help give you some pointers.

With the greatest respect, my point was don’t fix it if it ain’t broke. Given OP’s whereabouts and journey type, I would be surprised if CCV was the cause of OP’s oil consumption.

It’s worth checking for mayonnaise under the filler cap as this can also be a sign of CCV gone bad, although it can be a symptom of other problems too.

 

[Chris_D]

If you can inspect the pipe without breaking it and it looks OK, don’t mess with the rest of the system. If you do break it, but it looks OK, just replace the broken pipe. It is possible to replace the whole system without taking the manifold off, but not easy. It might not even be possible with the cold climate kit due to the extra lagging on the pipes, but I stand to be corrected.

Given the type of driving you do (long, fast) I would be surprised if this is the problem. Blocked up CCV/PCV is usually caused by short journeys in cold weather where water vapour condenses in the pipes and emulsifies with the oil. Not uncommon in the UK.

Pointless to try and inspect one component without replacing the whole system as you could wrongly assume the system is ok just because you didn't happen to spot anything wrong with whichever pipe he removes and then looking for the issue somewhere else. There's just no logic in that. I doubt the OP would manage to remove any of the pipes without them crumbling and breaking especially if they're the originals, in which case you should definitely replace the whole system.
It's also worth advising that CCV/PCV failure is not only due to blockages in the pipes but also that the rubber membrane in the separation valve degrades and ruptures as happened in my case with an M52 system. The pipes were fine and clear but the valve had failed.

Yes, it's difficult to replace but not impossible if you take a bit of time and effort. See if you can find back my monster thread where I document the replacement in my own M54B30 CCV system. It's not a step by step guide but it may help give you some pointers.

With the greatest respect, my point was don’t fix it if it ain’t broke. Given OP’s whereabouts and journey type, I would be surprised if CCV was the cause of OP’s oil consumption.

It’s worth checking for mayonnaise under the filler cap as this can also be a sign of CCV gone bad, although it can be a symptom of other problems too.

On a 198k km car it's not a question of IF the CCV system will fail, but WHEN, especially if it's the original.
Hence respectfully, the point is that it's a good preventive maintenance procedure to carry out in any case, let alone trying to cancel out possible causes of a high oil-consumption issue.

 

[zriha]

I am all for preventive maintenance, if it must be replaced, I am a simple guy, just tell me what to buy, and I will buy it and take it to my mechanic for replacement.

It’s worth checking for mayonnaise under the filler cap as this can also be a sign of CCV gone bad, although it can be a symptom of other problems too.

Checked, all the time, no mayonnaise, everything clean, the smell is good, I have experience with burned oil smell, you can test that after a hard drive, open a filler cap and smell it if it is burned smell, not a nice mixture of oil and gasoline smell, then you have a problem too.

I think I had the wrong oil, LL-04 oil, not LL-01. I will replace it at 200.000 km.

 

[enuff_zed]

I think I had the wrong oil, LL-04 oil, not LL-01. I will replace it at 200.000 km.

Now this has confused me as I went to Opie Oils to buy oil and filters for both my E89 (N20) and the wife's E85 (M54).
They recommended and supplied to me the same oil for both cars.
Fuchs Titan GTI Flex 23 - 5W-30 (LL-04)

As a very respected supplier I would have thought their recommendation would be correct?
Are you sure you need to swap back to LL-01?

 

[zriha]

I think I had the wrong oil, LL-04 oil, not LL-01. I will replace it at 200.000 km.

Now this has confused me as I went to Opie Oils to buy oil and filters for both my E89 (N20) and the wife's E85 (M54).
They recommended and supplied to me the same oil for both cars.
Fuchs Titan GTI Flex 23 - 5W-30 (LL-04)

As a very respected supplier I would have thought their recommendation would be correct?
Are you sure you need to swap back to LL-01?

I checked here in the forum, https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=127746 and I also checked with BMW mechanic, and he said, LL-01 is for M54 engine, not LL-04, it doesn't hurt, LL-04 came later. So I will switch back to LL-01. Also, info that I found - The new BMW petrol engines run safely with both BMW LL01 and BMW LL04. The LL04 was developed primarily to make diesel exhaust as clean as possible.

So basically, LL-04 came for diesel engines, it's ok for our engine, but when our engine came out to the market, it used LL-01 oil.

 

[enuff_zed]

I think I had the wrong oil, LL-04 oil, not LL-01. I will replace it at 200.000 km.

Now this has confused me as I went to Opie Oils to buy oil and filters for both my E89 (N20) and the wife's E85 (M54).
They recommended and supplied to me the same oil for both cars.
Fuchs Titan GTI Flex 23 - 5W-30 (LL-04)

As a very respected supplier I would have thought their recommendation would be correct?
Are you sure you need to swap back to LL-01?

I checked here in the forum, https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=127746 and I also checked with BMW mechanic, and he said, LL-01 is for M54 engine, not LL-04, it doesn't hurt, LL-04 came later. So I will switch back to LL-01. Also, info that I found - The new BMW petrol engines run safely with both BMW LL01 and BMW LL04. The LL04 was developed primarily to make diesel exhaust as clean as possible.

So basically, LL-04 came for diesel engines, it's ok for our engine, but when our engine came out to the market, it used LL-01 oil.

Thank you.

 

[zriha]

Thank you.

My pleasure