M54 engine replacement - final stages, hopefully! .

I wonder how long the replacement engine had been standing?
When I changed the Vanos on mine, I used a replacement that had been refurbished and left on a shelf for a while. It turned out the solenoid valves were sticking in the bores as they had no oil around them for a while. I whipped off the solenoids, popped the valves out, gave them a very light rub down, plenty of oil and back together. Solved the hunting I had.
Might be worth a check. Inlet is easy as it's at the top. Exhaust one is a bit harder to see what you're doing. Once the solenoids are off, you should be able to easily push the valves in and they should pop back up again. Anything other than free and easy movement could be your issue.
 
enuff_zed said:
I wonder how long the replacement engine had been standing?
When I changed the Vanos on mine, I used a replacement that had been refurbished and left on a shelf for a while. It turned out the solenoid valves were sticking in the bores as they had no oil around them for a while. I whipped off the solenoids, popped the valves out, gave them a very light rub down, plenty of oil and back together. Solved the hunting I had.
Might be worth a check. Inlet is easy as it's at the top. Exhaust one is a bit harder to see what you're doing. Once the solenoids are off, you should be able to easily push the valves in and they should pop back up again. Anything other than free and easy movement could be your issue.
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Somewhere in the dark recesses of my brain I think I vaguely remembered your post about this, so thanks for jogging my memory. I actually swapped the vanoss unit over as I'd done the refresh on mine about two years ago. However on both units the solenoids on the exhaust side felt as though they were resisting being moved by a strong spring. I could just comfortably move them pushing with my thumb. I assumed this was normal as they both did it but perhaps this is my issue. Inlet side moved far more freely. I can't speak for the doner engine but mines been sat for a month now. Daily use before the 'incident'.
So both solenoids should move freely?

After pushing the idle control valve electrical connector home I reset the fault codes (which were related to that) and now its not showing any codes despite the hunting. But it is only a cheap generic code reader.
 
I've just realised after looking at an online how to, I'm talking about the vanos cylinders, not the solenoids. I'll have to look at those on Friday.

As I changed a few bits over from the old hydraulic locked engine there was a fair bit of mayo from the water on the rocker cover and ccv system. I've seen a couple of mentions of the solenoids getting gummed up with mayo so hopefully this will sort my lumy idle.
 
ph001 said:
It might take a while for the ECU to re-learn all the parameters through various revs / throttle positions whilst driving so don't go around hunting for a fault just yet.
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Think you've got this spot on! Although I told myself I was having a couple of days off from oily hands I couldnt help but investigate the access to the two vanos solenoids and the camshaft position sensors. Also looking at the solenoids on the vanos on the bench.
But whilst doing that I thought I'd run the engine to see if it settled. I had to hold the accelerator for twenty seconds or so to stop it stalling, then it idled and hunted, then after a couple of minutes it slowly sorted itself. I can't say it's sewing machine quiet but it's running smoothly. Still need the oil and water levels finessing. I've come i out of the rain now but I'll sleep better tonight than I did last night, so thank you!

Still sounds a bit 'airy' on the intake side and when I turn the engine off there's a fair amount of air movement noise for a few seconds - I can't remember if this is normal or not, feels like a long time since the engine ran! It's showing a code P0056, bank 2, sensor 2. I suppose the they could be related and I think it showed this code intermittently before, but the main thing is.................. IT'S ALIVE!!! :driving: :thumbsup:
 
Thrustyjust said:
Blimey, just catching up with this. Impressive work :thumbsup: Hope the idle gets sorted easily :driving:
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Thanks, and it looks to have been sorted easily!

Now I just need the bast**d insurance company to decide what they're doing so I can get it insured and taxed and get it on the road again. Checky folks offered me ÂŁ2800, which was based on glasses guide even though the engineer's report suggested is worth around ÂŁ5000. I suggested ÂŁ4500 which I thought was fair. Bizarrely the buy back cost was quoted as ÂŁ748. It's really dragging on now.
 
Jamie25 said:
Still sounds a bit 'airy' on the intake side and when I turn the engine off there's a fair amount of air movement noise for a few seconds - I can't remember if this is normal or not, feels like a long time since the engine ran! It's showing a code P0056, bank 2, sensor 2. I suppose the they could be related and I think it showed this code intermittently before, but the main thing is.................. IT'S ALIVE!!! :driving: :thumbsup:
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Just a thought. When changing my son’s starter motor we fired up the engine before putting the sound generator pipe back on and it ran just like you’re describing. Put the pipe back on it was fine. Clearly the engine was sucking in air directly in through where the pipe would connect and not through the airbox, therefore bypassing the MAF.
 
You’ve had a crash course in z4 mechanicals and come out with an A*.Working outside at this time of the year takes some doing. :thumbsup:
 
Zedebee said:
Just a thought. When changing my son’s starter motor we fired up the engine before putting the sound generator pipe back on and it ran just like you’re describing. Put the pipe back on it was fine. Clearly the engine was sucking in air directly in through where the pipe would connect and not through the airbox, therefore bypassing the MAF.
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That's defo not right. The resonator should be a sealed unit so merely putting the pipe back on should not make any difference. Unless you mean you didn't have the resonator fitted at all?
 
ph001 said:
Zedebee said:
Just a thought. When changing my son’s starter motor we fired up the engine before putting the sound generator pipe back on and it ran just like you’re describing. Put the pipe back on it was fine. Clearly the engine was sucking in air directly in through where the pipe would connect and not through the airbox, therefore bypassing the MAF.
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That's defo not right. The resonator should be a sealed unit so merely putting the pipe back on should not make any difference. Unless you mean you didn't have the resonator fitted at all?
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Yes that’s exactly right, had the whole unit off pipe and resonator together.
 
Thanks everyone for the kind words. Not posted for a while as I've had a few days off tinkering and looking on here; I was starting to feel it had taken over my life!
But I'm back, but having issues getting it running properly.

I've checked for inlet vacuum leaks and eventually found one of the Ccv hose connections wasn't pushed home. As I'd removed some air filter box and ducting thought I'd clean the maf with electrical contact cleaner. It has been immersed in flood water so thought it prudent.

Got it all back together and fired it up and after a could of seconds of hunting it smoothed out and idled really nicely. But then it started misfiring. What a fear inducing nose that is!
P0300, P0303, P0305, P0306 which all relate to misfires.

I've done a smoke test on it, of sorts. I removed the air filter box and maf and zip tied the wrist of a latex glove over the inlet ducting. Attached the outlet of a hand air pump to one (cut off) finger of the glove and pumped smoke in. The glove inflated which I believe shows I have no leaks. It did very slowly deflate over about two minutes but I think this is likely because the glove seals weren't prefect. I removed the oil filter cap and the pressure released.
I also tried the same test with the pump attached to the dip stick tube and got the same result.

I think the next step is to replace the MAF?

I've taken it for a short test drive. It only misfires at idle and it also hunts or stalls at idle. Disconnecting the MAF seems to make little difference other than throwing codes. P0102, P0113.

It also occasionally throws P0056 but did this before the engine change. Exhaust 02 sensor.

Any thoughts on what to do next. If it needs a MAF I'll obviously get one, but their pricey and I don't want to just randomly start buying parts, the bills are adding up. 🙄
 
It's saying misfire in cylinders 3,5 and 6. I would check the coils by switching them around to see if it follows, check the wiring as well.
 
I'm fairly confident it's not going to be the coils as it was running without misfires before I sorted the vacuum leak (re-connected the CCV union) and cleaned the MAF. However I will do as you suggested Haro - it'll only take seconds after all.

The coils also came from my old engine where they had no issues and the flood wouldn't have effected them - the engine only got wet on the inside :headbang:
 
Jamie25 said:
I'm fairly confident it's not going to be the coils as it was running without misfires before I sorted the vacuum leak (re-connected the CCV union) and cleaned the MAF. However I will do as you suggested Haro - it'll only take seconds after all.
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Cps possibly? :?
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
Jamie25 said:
I'm fairly confident it's not going to be the coils as it was running without misfires before I sorted the vacuum leak (re-connected the CCV union) and cleaned the MAF. However I will do as you suggested Haro - it'll only take seconds after all.
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Cps possibly? :?
Rob
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Sorry Rob, CPS? Crown Prosecution Service? Be good if we could replace those!
 
Jamie25 said:
Smartbear said:
Jamie25 said:
I'm fairly confident it's not going to be the coils as it was running without misfires before I sorted the vacuum leak (re-connected the CCV union) and cleaned the MAF. However I will do as you suggested Haro - it'll only take seconds after all.
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Cps possibly? :?
Rob
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Sorry Rob, CPS? Crown Prosecution Service? Be good if we could replace those!
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Crankshaft position sensor :P
Rob
 
I realised as I hit submit and my laptop died - plugged in but not switched on at the wall!

I assume that's an educated guess from your comment Rob rather than a 'seen this before, it'll be this'.

I could try swapping the cam sensors from my old engine.

As I say I'm leaning towards a MAF. I don't suppose anyone in Southern Gloucestershire would have one they'd like to lend me for five minutes? :roll:
 
I'll check the coils shortly. If that doesn't work I think I'll also check the ICV as I don't remember checking it had free movement when installing it. I guess if that's stuck it could be causing issues.
 
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