M54 (3.0i) Vanos DIY progress thread

[bearded_ed]

I'm doing it! (10:30AM)

Replacing vanos seals on my 2004 3.0i.

So far so good... Once I actually had all my tools.


Only concern I have is one of my coils is different to the others and they have totally different locking mechanisms to the X8r instructions but we'll see... I shall update as I can.

Update 1... 12:05pm

Cant remove the damn engine hoist hook. It is meant to be an 11mm socket and whilst I have that, I cannot get the socket, adapter and ratchet onto it! Slightly too long. I also don't have an 11mm spanner.

Might take a trip to the store in a min. My adjustable is just trying to round it off! Damn it.

Update 2.... 1:16pm

Having to give up! I got a bit further and just really struggled with getting the 10mm nuts off the front of the vanos. There's just not enough space for me to get at them. Even if I managed to get Em off, I'd probably struggle to get them on again... Even with my new spanner set I can only sensibly get 4 of 6 out - couldn't even see where the other two were.


- Reassembly in progress -

Update 3... 1:45pm

So during original disassembly I dropped one of the valve cover bolts and it completely vanished - I even found the washer under the car but no bolt! Had to remove the undertray earlier in the process in order to retrieve a dropped tool and still didn't find it then. I wasn't panicking about this at the time as I thought I had replacements in my kit. Turns out they're for something else I never got to!

It's now about half two and I am walking the half mile to local BMW dealer in the hopes the have an obscure bolt.

Update 4... 2:17pm

Back home with no bolt, but it will be with them tomorrow first thing. Good job I have tomorrow off as well eh? Am wrapping up reassembly after having put new gaskets everywhere, at least I don't have to worry about those leaking now... Except perhaps the vanos u-shape gasket as I got over half the bolts off it, I suspect the unit moved. Problem for another day.

Update 5... 3:30pm

Fully put everything I can back together in the front end and am now going to attempt to remove disa unit to do that upgrade and hopefully actually achieve something today!!!!!! :x

Update 6... 4:15pm

Sat at the garden table with my disa unit. I had to remove the top half of the airbox and piping to get at the bottom T30 screw, which was mildly annoying.
Thankfully it certainly seems like my unit hasn't been upgraded before so this should be worth doing.
It's taken a lot of work to get the pin out and now the old bits are absolutely trashed after struggling to get them out!!!



Update 7... 4:30pm.
F**K THIS "O-RING"!!!!! The factory orange stuff is totally and utterly bonded to the plastic and is coming off in bits. What a faff.


Update 8... 4:57pm
IT IS RAINING. WHY. IS. IT. RAINING.
Have finally got the disa unit back together and am absolutely done with it all now. I don't really want the engine bay open to the elements so the complete and refreshed disa unit is now in the shed until tomorrow where I will pop the bonnet for the last time to install that and the final bolt from BMW.

(Note in order to save time I have now filled in the above updates from my PC after a very very frustrating day!)

Update 9... 18:25

I have successfully completed nothing today. My aim was to do the vanos and disa fixes and all I've really done is replace rocker cover gasket, lose a head bolt and replace the flap on my disa. Disa unit is still out of the car at the moment too.

Has anyone here actually done the VANOS and won?! I have no idea how you guys managed to get at the front of it to pull off those nuts/bolts for the whole thing to come off. It's no wonder that all the video tutorials on how to do it have engines that are out of the car making it look easy. URGH.

Please feel free to laugh at me for losing a bolt in the engine bay.... But any tips for fixing stuff are greatly appreciated! Now, where's the whisky!

 

[bearded_ed]

Reserved incase I need a second post.

 

[maxman]

If you have a 7/16 AF spanner that will do the job.

 

[bearded_ed]

If you have a 7/16 AF spanner that will do the job.

Sadly I only had a couple of spanners, a 14 and 15mm - used for pedals on my mountain bike and that was it. Now though I have a full set!!!

 

[Deadpool]

Remove the electric fan so you have more room and visibility The real fun starts when you try pull the VANOS unit out

 

[bearded_ed]

Remove the electric fan so you have more room and visibility The real fun starts when you try pull the VANOS unit out

But it's not the fan that's in the way? Its the car structure itself that I struggled with. Or do I really need to give it a go and take the front covers off an stuff?
How easy is the fan, it's a couple screws, one clip and a cable isn't it?

 

[Jakg]

I've done it on my drive.

Not fun as access is tight but doable.

The hardest part is removing the unit itself - you need to remove the studs to manoeuvre it out, I used mole grips.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1755842&i=38

 

[Deadpool]

Remove the electric fan so you have more room and visibility The real fun starts when you try pull the VANOS unit out

But it's not the fan that's in the way? Its the car structure itself that I struggled with. Or do I really need to give it a go and take the front covers off an stuff?
How easy is the fan, it's a couple screws, one clip and a cable isn't it?

I found removing the fan helped get access & visibility to the lower nuts by using an extension bar (+universal joints if needed) from behind the bulkhead. Was working blind otherwise.
I think it was 1 torx screw, 1 rivet and 2 connectors then the fan slides out.

Have you tried using universal joints with the ratchet? Or any ratchets that will fit straight onto the socket? - Might help save the few mm's by not using an adapter.

I'd clean out the throttle body and ICV whilst your at it too.

 

[tomrdy]

+1 on what others have said. You NEED to remove the radiator fan.

No other way to get a socket on there for those bolts. It's still super tight and awkward but possible. It'll become clear once the fan is out and you navigate your ratchets around.

[Edit] ignore this. I had a bit of a moment in my old brain [edit]

 

[Jakg]

+1 on what others have said. You NEED to remove the radiator fan.

No other way to get a socket on there for those bolts. It's still super tight and awkward but possible. It'll become clear once the fan is out and you navigate your ratchets around.

[Edit] ignore this. I had a bit of a moment in my old brain [edit]

You don't need to remove the fan. Or at least on my car I didn't.

 

[tomrdy]

But it's not the fan that's in the way? Its the car structure itself that I struggled with. Or do I really need to give it a go and take the front covers off an stuff?
How easy is the fan, it's a couple screws, one clip and a cable isn't it?

This is when I did mine with the fan removed. You'll see the access hole you gain by doing so - which should let you get spanners/wrenches/sockets etc in MUCH easier.

Sadly I only had a couple of spanners, a 14 and 15mm - used for pedals on my mountain bike and that was it. Now though I have a full set!!!

I'm not sure what your tool kit looks like now but you may need to add extra extensions to it - sometimes its easier to reach deeper in than it is to try and get the wrench past the bulk head.

Some random notes I have just thought of regarding your DISA service as well that may be of use - you may be aware already from research that there are 2 quick ways to check the DISA operation while it's out:

1. Push flap to closed position and hold your finger on the little hole at the bottom of the unit. Flap should open slightly only. On release of hole, flap should open back up. This is a pass. If it doesn't open promptly, you may have over tightened the bar or the little locking ring that's tapped into place - just back it off a little and try again until it is good.

2a. DISA plugged in but still visibly out, turn ignition to 2 but DO NOT start the motor. The flap should close. When ignition is turned off, after a moment (the buzzing stops), the flap should open back up and have a notable pop sound. This is a pass. However...

2b. I noticed that in certain cold-start circumstances (edit: apparently it's to do with lack of vacuum in the system hence needing to run the car for a tad), the car doesn't actually want to/can't close the flap so it will not pass 2a but don't be too alarmed if this happens. Continue refit and run the car till warm provided the motor seems ok and no errors. With motor warm and still on, pop the hood and try unplugging/replugging the DISA cable - if you can hear the "pop" sound (ie: actuation) when you disconnect/reconnect etc, then it should be working. You can also physically see the arm move.