///M Warranty Issues

1. New engine at 9k miles, oil starvation issue leading to worn bearings. Car now on 33k, new engine no problems.
2. Lambda sensor replacement
3. Two rear springs both replaced at 32K
4. New Sat Nav Computer/Processor

Car is 56 plate

My view is the S54 is on the whole a pretty reliable lump given how tuned it is and 2-3 failures on here doesnt make it otherwise.
 
My alarm kept going off for no reason, which really impressed my neighbours :thumbsup: took to garage and they traced it to the bonnet catch and replaced.

Only other issue was the glove compartment colapsed, which again was replaced under warranty.

I do seem to get get a creaking niose from the rear of the car when getting in and out, so wonderring if my rear springs need replacing????
What was the symptoms for the rear spring failure??, as my warranty will be running out shortly.

Question!!!, is it worth getting an indy to check the car over before the warranty runs out?, or ask the dealer to do the same?, do the dealers make from warranty?, is it within their interests to replace parts that are borderline??

Would be interesting to know what the best approach is with respect to last month or so of warranty.
 
wow! mines had absolutely zero warranty work! and it doesn't have any interior rattles either...

however my old silver one went in for a new door lock/catch mechanism and did have a few rattles from the bulkead behind the seats
 
ROSSI said:
My alarm kept going off for no reason, which really impressed my neighbours :thumbsup: took to garage and they traced it to the bonnet catch and replaced.

Only other issue was the glove compartment colapsed, which again was replaced under warranty.

I do seem to get get a creaking niose from the rear of the car when getting in and out, so wonderring if my rear springs need replacing????
What was the symptoms for the rear spring failure??, as my warranty will be running out shortly.

Question!!!, is it worth getting an indy to check the car over before the warranty runs out?, or ask the dealer to do the same?, do the dealers make from warranty?, is it within their interests to replace parts that are borderline??

Would be interesting to know what the best approach is with respect to last month or so of warranty.


Rossi

It might be your springs but equally it might just be your handbrake. Try taking that off and then get in and out of the car to see if it still squeaks.
 
JayD said:
ROSSI said:
My alarm kept going off for no reason, which really impressed my neighbours :thumbsup: took to garage and they traced it to the bonnet catch and replaced.

Only other issue was the glove compartment colapsed, which again was replaced under warranty.

I do seem to get get a creaking niose from the rear of the car when getting in and out, so wonderring if my rear springs need replacing????
What was the symptoms for the rear spring failure??, as my warranty will be running out shortly.

Question!!!, is it worth getting an indy to check the car over before the warranty runs out?, or ask the dealer to do the same?, do the dealers make from warranty?, is it within their interests to replace parts that are borderline??

Would be interesting to know what the best approach is with respect to last month or so of warranty.


Rossi

It might be your springs but equally it might just be your handbrake. Try taking that off and then get in and out of the car to see if it still squeaks.


Cheers Jayd,

Will try with the handbrake off, not on a hill though!! :roll: , she has just been in for an inspection 1 which I would have hoped would have identified any issues with either handbrake or springs.
 
The roof electronics replaced - motor ok, but something had fried somewhere.

Car overheating had cooler of some sorts replaced.

Sorry typical women was not listening when they where telling me what they had actually done. :oops:

Glove box fell off, so damn small have not around to putting it back yet. Headlight washers are disconnected, think a pipe is split or blown off in the bad weather. Synters refused to do either of these two items under warranty though, they keep telling me any plastic or pipework is not covered. I am currently into my extended warranty which runs out in March (car was 3yrs in Nov 09).

Going to Rybrook to have my MOT and have the car checked over in the next few weeks, so they might find some other bits and will push for my glovebox and get them to sort the headlamp washers.

I was going to swap to another warranty but have decided to stick to the BMW one, minus the assist. Just spend £7k fixing my TT, hideous unreliable thing, part exed it last week, so will never be without a warranty unless it is an old banger.
 
jontysafe said:
Thanks mmm-five, that`s what I was going to do. Does anyone give credence to this? http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Does anyone remember SteveD's preferred running in method for his M car's? It was loosely based on this article. I found this from another forum which was a rough synopsis of what he suggested:

From what I recall as the post no longer remains, the key to Steve's running in procedure is in the first 200 miles from new.

A series of taking the car up to maybe 7000 rpm on several progressive runs, in a straight line so not to put strain on the diff. Once the top suggested rpm is reached allow the car to rev down to 2-3000 rpm and repeat this procedure several times over several occasions during the 1st 200 miles. Always do this with the engine nicely warmed up.

Theory is this will assist in ensuring that the piston rings seal nicely in the chamber, additional speed through the increased rpm will help smooth the chambers nicely, much like sand papering something more quickly to get a smoother finish, resulting in a good tight engine.

First two hundred miles is the key, not much point thereafter as the piston rings will have sealed as best they can.
 
JayD said:
jontysafe said:
Thanks mmm-five, that`s what I was going to do. Does anyone give credence to this? http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Does anyone remember SteveD's preferred running in method for his M car's? It was loosely based on this article. I found this from another forum which was a rough synopsis of what he suggested:

From what I recall as the post no longer remains, the key to Steve's running in procedure is in the first 200 miles from new.

A series of taking the car up to maybe 7000 rpm on several progressive runs, in a straight line so not to put strain on the diff. Once the top suggested rpm is reached allow the car to rev down to 2-3000 rpm and repeat this procedure several times over several occasions during the 1st 200 miles. Always do this with the engine nicely warmed up.

Theory is this will assist in ensuring that the piston rings seal nicely in the chamber, additional speed through the increased rpm will help smooth the chambers nicely, much like sand papering something more quickly to get a smoother finish, resulting in a good tight engine.

First two hundred miles is the key, not much point thereafter as the piston rings will have sealed as best they can.

Yeah I remember that Jay, I more or less ran my car in that way, I nursed it for the first 50 miles or so and then used that method for the next 150miles with the exception of not exceeding the 5500rpm running in rev limit.

The idea is to get the piston rings bedded into the bores before the honing on the bores wears smooth.

Back to the warranty issues I've had a new diff due to it whining and that's it.
 
Not wishing to sound disrespectful but who really gives a toss about some paint flaking from the wheels? Unless we're talking serious chunks I'm surprised that a dealer would replace this, personally it doesn't really strike me as an issue? Maybe I should be firmer - I just paid the dealer to reset my lights as they were not properly aligned. Out of interest would this be a warranty issue for some of you? An engine replacement is a different issue...that's not going to stop me using the full rev band anytime soon though :D
 
tjlazer said:
Not wishing to sound disrespectful but who really gives a toss about some paint flaking from the wheels? Unless we're talking serious chunks I'm surprised that a dealer would replace this, personally it doesn't really strike me as an issue? Maybe I should be firmer - I just paid the dealer to reset my lights as they were not properly aligned. Out of interest would this be a warranty issue for some of you? An engine replacement is a different issue...that's not going to stop me using the full rev band anytime soon though :D
Agreed to a point, but after 3yrs it's nice to have 4 fresh shiny alloys! Us against them matey! 8)
 
And wheels should last more than 4 years in decent condition otherwise you might as well just buy replicas and accept they ned replacing every two or three years...
 
jontysafe said:
Thanks mmm-five, that`s what I was going to do. Does anyone give credence to this? http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I'm not sure what BMW would have said regarding warranty claims had I not run in my e34 M5 according to their schedule - assuming they could prove it as those older ECUs didn't record over-revving or time at high RPMs.
 
No issues except a broken spring out of warranty which they replaced after a call to BMW by the service manager - FOC. :thumbsup:
 
AlanJ said:
No issues except a broken spring out of warranty which they replaced after a call to BMW by the service manager - FOC. :thumbsup:

Ah - you got an M then? :poke:
 
My M has proved a lot more reliable than the 3.0SI before it. The only issue I've had if you can call it that is that I needed a new telematics control unit as the previous owner hadn't registered it causing the IMEI to become blocked.

I was tempted to list a load of items that hadn't failed as nobody shouts about not having problems.

As with all mechanical items though, you can have good ones and bad ones - I guess mine counts as a good one.
 
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