M-sport seat retrofit (not yet finished)

Hehe, it seems the damp was probably the problem all along for the electrical gremlins on the exposed passenger seat.

Yep, full passenger seat heating up all over now, so running that often with window down to fully dry it out, then off for a decent deep-clean/rejuvinate at a leather specialists to get them really really nice!

Really happy with the mod now. £270 delivered, with my old fully complete and working seats to sell should see me break even at least :)

Dave
 
Dunno....They still look quite stressed. But good save for the money and i wouldn't gripe over them! :) Good work.
 
Great to see they're working fully, does the leather look less wrinkled/wavy with the seat drying out more?

Got the door cards changed over to red leather versions yet?

You're better off since they're facelift versions, 2004 version would have had grey plastic trim all over them, rather than the black, so things worked out very nicely after a bit of hard work :thumbsup:
 
Have you tried these two pages to help you out?

http://www.shipkiller.com/Z4PassSeat.html
http://www.shipkiller.com/SeatHeating.html
 
Aliv6 said:
Dunno....They still look quite stressed. But good save for the money and i wouldn't gripe over them! :) Good work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they still need work, but happier with £600+ in the pocket and learning how to get leather good again, rather than buying mint ones.

Herminator said:
Great to see they're working fully, does the leather look less wrinkled/wavy with the seat drying out more?

Got the door cards changed over to red leather versions yet?

You're better off since they're facelift versions, 2004 version would have had grey plastic trim all over them, rather than the black, so things worked out very nicely after a bit of hard work :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Not done the door cards yet, will make sure everything is fine with code clearing etc before moving to those. Need to clean the 2nd one yet, and also do my discs/pads before I start more trim work :)

Not sure on the wrinkles/waves. Now they are being used more the marks are stretching out... I will take them to a pro leather worker to get them as good as they can be got for £100... as they do need some more professional attention in places...

Shipkiller said:
Have you tried these two pages to help you out?

http://www.shipkiller.com/Z4PassSeat.html
http://www.shipkiller.com/SeatHeating.html
Click to expand...

Haha, they would have been handy a week ago, (link is the picture, never spotted as I checked your site first :) ), but I did find the diagrams anyway!

Small difference though, the BMW wiring info doesn't point out the facelift (maybe, or it could be m-sports vs standard seats) occupancy pad has integrated electronics, so the box isn't there under the seat, the mat sensor itself outputs to the 3 wires straight to the large loom plug socket!

That is where I was getting stuck, as no diagrams mentioned that!


Dave
 
Herminator said:
Great to see they're working fully, does the leather look less wrinkled/wavy with the seat drying out more?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the leather on the passenger side is now dry and no wrinkles or waves at all. Both seats look really good now bar the tiny niggles.

Going to try get the little problem areas seen to in a few weeks, so will pop up some final pictures soon :)

Dave
 
i hope i can retrofit a couple of M seats to my Pre facelift, but they are comming from a facelift type.

in this thread is says there is no difference in an other people say there is, and you have to swap the occuppation mat/ sensor.

so to make it clear : does the facelift sensor fit the Pre facelift or do i have so switch the sensor ?
 
If there are still wrinkles, I once saw a great seat restoration guide on the same seats on YouTube where a guy used a hair dryer/heated gun (GENTLY) over the panels again and again and it tightened up the leather a treat.
 
Lightning87 said:
i hope i can retrofit a couple of M seats to my Pre facelift, but they are comming from a facelift type.

in this thread is says there is no difference in an other people say there is, and you have to swap the occuppation mat/ sensor.

so to make it clear : does the facelift sensor fit the Pre facelift or do i have so switch the sensor ?
Click to expand...
You need a occupancy sensor bypass for the passenger seat. You can get one on ebay for about £10.
 
can i use the leather again then or do i need to get a new leather thing from the dealer ?

thanx you guys as i'm probably just a onther dutch stupid one I( like those damn footballers )
 
As a guess I think you can re-use the leather, but can not confirm 100%.... maybe 90%. :D

P.S. was gutted about the football yesterday! I wanted you guys to win! :( Van Persie should have put the first two chances in the goal!!
 
thanx peddy !

the whole team except sneider faild. lett's hope those germans win and we do we still have a (verry verry) litlle chance
 
Maniac said:
If there are still wrinkles, I once saw a great seat restoration guide on the same seats on YouTube where a guy used a hair dryer/heated gun (GENTLY) over the panels again and again and it tightened up the leather a treat.
Click to expand...
That's "Pawnsacrifice" on here probably. I've used the same method to good use too, particularly my van seats. Hair dryer is less effective, heatgun far better but more chance of it going wrong...
 
Steam cleaner works best. It's what apaulsterers use to tighten new leather. If you haven't got one, towels in very hot water, rinse out then place on leather, leave for 5 minutes and will do the same job :)
 
Lightning87 said:
i hope i can retrofit a couple of M seats to my Pre facelift, but they are comming from a facelift type.

in this thread is says there is no difference in an other people say there is, and you have to swap the occuppation mat/ sensor.

so to make it clear : does the facelift sensor fit the Pre facelift or do i have so switch the sensor ?
Click to expand...


I've just spotted this.

My passenger occupancy sensor works fine from the facelift seat.

The old seats have a box mid-loom from the sensor to the big yellow multi-plug, and that box can be removed.

The new seats simply have the box just off the sensor pad at the back of the seat, and the wire that leaves the back of the seat is essentially the same plug as what comes out of the black box on the old seats, and joins to the yellow multi-plug.


I've tested all functions and both my seats work as expected.


Perhaps there are different old seat styles. In any case, the loom from the big yellow plug to the ECU is the same, the wiring in the big yellow plug is the same, so whatever you do you need an occupancy signal to go to the associated pins in the yellow plug. The early seats have some of the electronics in a stand alone box, the late ones seem to have it in the seat sensor itself. There may be another type (never heard/seen of it in all the wire diagrams I looked at though)


My 2p, worst case is the passenger airbag goes off, and door airbags, if there is no one sat in the seat. Not really the end of the world as any accident that big on these cars now is probably a write off any way.
In the event of an accident everything safety related will attempt to work any way.

Dave
 
I just wanted to say this looks awesome, like really really awesome. Such a decent job you've done of cleaning them up too.
 
I'm doing a similar job whereby I found some scruffy looking seats, do them up and install.

I'm having trouble removing the seat from the back though. I've removed the panels, removed the screws but whilst the side that doesn't have the heating connector slides up and down okay, I can't get the other side to budge to see where the connector is that I need to unplug so I can separate the two parts of the seat.

Can you remember where it was from when you did yours?
 
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