Next job on my recently purchased 2.0i..... wheels off and brakes strip. This is the offside front disc inner face at 4 years old and 15k miles. The braking felt absolutely fine but this corrosion is never gonna wear in. Surprised it wasn’t an MOT advisory as it’s a loss of about 25/30 % braking surface. Obviously putting new discs and pads back on - all round.
Low Mileage not necessarily a good thing.
- Thread starter Crista
- Start date
North West Surrey
Yes, any car needs to be used regularly.
I know everybody reckons TVRs are unreliable, but it's probably because most are 2nd cars. Some years ago I knew of someone who had a Chimaera that he used as a daily and he had no problems with it!
I know everybody reckons TVRs are unreliable, but it's probably because most are 2nd cars. Some years ago I knew of someone who had a Chimaera that he used as a daily and he had no problems with it!
Yes right by the coast. To be honest I exepected a few bits like this as the car has spent a long time just stood on the first owners drive so the discs are always gonna suffer. Everything that matters is fine, so it’s just a few consumable bits to change and then use it like it was meant to be used.
Ditto, I bought a coastal car once a few years back... suffered corrosion similar to this and more beside to the underside with more corrosion on ARB`s, shock mounts, brake lines etc. still purchased it as with a bit of TLC it was easily tidied up so a good deal and all parts were easily changeable. 
It was £216 ( so £54 a corner really ) from Eurocarparts over bank holiday weekend for new discs and pads all round plus front and rear wear sensors. The shield behind the disc was easy to clean and repaint with the discs removed and the same with the callipers - clean and repaint. Paint used was Halfords heat resistant calliper silver - sprayed in a cup and then brushed on. The wear sensors I didn’t actually fit as there was very little wear on the pads - they were just worn unevenly by the corrosion on the discs. That meant I didn’t have to mess around resetting the brake service indicators until I learn a bit more about the car and how to do it. The indicators were still at 35000 front and 20000 rear anyway which at my mileage will take forever. I also took the opportunity to clean up and rust roof (with ACF 50) every fitting that had any corrosion on it and repainted the shock absorbers with Hammerite Satin Black. The brackets that hold the ABS and Wear Sensor cables on the inner bulkhead were completely rusted so I removed those, scaled and repainted also in the satin black. All of the under wing plastic shield securing fittings I removed and greased. It now looks like 15k miles should look like. I’m now working my way around the rear suspension and sub frame underneath as there are lots of area where corrosion has set in prematurely ( IMO ). I’m removing what I can eg thrust plate ( I think that’s what it’s called ) to scale and repaint. I’m rust proofing anything I can’t remove at the moment. There are a lot of delicate fittings under there eg ride height sensors that would give trouble in the future if not sorted now and all this work makes things much easier to remove in the future as and when necessary. It is my intention, either this winter or next, to drop the rear sub frame and suspension entirely to clean and repaint everything as it should have been in the first. Is all of this necessary? - probably not but I just love faffing around in my man cave.
ihadablackdog
Senior member
Have your wheels been refurbed?
No they are original and have been lightly kerbed in a few places which I’ve touched up and then polished the s**t out of them. Intention is to get them refurbished when I buy my “all season tires” so that the fitting is free and I’ll probably get the TPMS valves changed at the same time as all the labour is covered by the refurbish which is £55 a wheel - well worth it.
ihadablackdog
Senior member
They do look very clean though.
I bought some carchem "revolt" (fallout remover) this week and am going to give my wheels a good soaking, hopefully get rid of the black bits!
Also getting new pads and discs all round......the selling dealer (back in March) lied to me about the car having all new pads/discs all round...basically they got busted, and have paid my local dealer to do the job! £598 retail!!!!!
I bought some carchem "revolt" (fallout remover) this week and am going to give my wheels a good soaking, hopefully get rid of the black bits!
Also getting new pads and discs all round......the selling dealer (back in March) lied to me about the car having all new pads/discs all round...basically they got busted, and have paid my local dealer to do the job! £598 retail!!!!!
Couldn’t agree more Ewasix - my only gripe is though if the suspension components and other stuff were painted properly in the first place then they shouldn’t really corrode other than in areas with the odd stone chip. That’s said I suppose all the bolt on stuff underneath is classed as consumeable although I wouldn’t want to be paying Main Dealer prices to replace the rear subframe a few years down the line. I’ve treated everything with scale and repaint on the accessible bits and ACF50 on the rest. Probably this winter I’ll Sorn it for a couple of months while I drop everything off underneath the back end and repaint it properly. Now retired this is the last expensive (to me) car that I buy so it will need to last a long time which comes at a good time as out of all the Boxters, MX’s, RX’s, SLK’s, Stags etc I am enjoying driving this more than any other.
Ewazix said:Nice job
One dose of winter salt slush will set off corrosion like that in no time at all and who jet washes the underside when it's snowing?. Cars used in areas with a lot of snow and gritting can be a mess underneath particularly brakes and pipes.
In my area of the country they use salt and grit like there’s no tomorrow so I SORN the zed at the end of October and it doesn’t come out of the garage until April when the salt has been well washed away. Added to that it’s also just a fine weather car and only comes out when it’s going to be warmed thro.