Looking for general advice.

Mr.Slash

Mr.Slash

Member
 South Africa
Howzit everyone, I'm currently in the market for a Z4, I've done a fair bit of research into the car but everywhere in going always recommends here, so are there any common/big mechanical issues that I'd run into on a 2006-09 model? Other than the usual rattles that a 20 year old car would have?
 
bigwinn said:
M specific will start with

Rod bearings replaced
Vanos
Running in
Service history
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Thanks for the where to start, and if there is no service history for the car, as it's a fairly common thing there, what should I look out for or rather just steer clear of those?
 
Totally your call

It will be frowned upon by the purists but if you just want to buy one and take the gamble (as with any car) that’s up to you

The crunch comes on resell value

There is a really nice m roadster not far from me that has a lot of boxes ticked that I am surprised it’s not sold as the price is around 12k

Mileage is king also- so if you aren’t bothered about cars with over 100k you’ll get a bargain
 
bigwinn said:
Totally your call

It will be frowned upon by the purists but if you just want to buy one and take the gamble (as with any car) that’s up to you

The crunch comes on resell value

There is a really nice m roadster not far from me that has a lot of boxes ticked that I am surprised it’s not sold as the price is around 12k

Mileage is king also- so if you aren’t bothered about cars with over 100k you’ll get a bargain
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Yea that makes sense, not a purist in any sense of the word, just looking for something fun and a bit more affordable to drive over the small 4x4 I've got currently. The one I'm looking at currently is a 2008 with over 120k miles on it though so was just wanting a better idea as to what to look out for. All the advice is much appreciated though.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

On a car with 120K miles if there is no evidence of the rod bearing shells having been replaced I'd get them (and the engine mounts while the bottom end is off) as a precautionary measure. If it spins a bearing you're likely to be needing at least a new crankshaft and block. :eek:

I had mine replaced at 78K miles as a precautionary measure and half of them were showing copper so I was glad I'd had them done even if I did pay £1,000 back in 2020.

Whether you get them replaced or not the general consensus is that it's best to avoid labouring the engine or revving it past 3,000 until it is properly up to temperature because these engines use such thick oil (10W/60).
 
Mr Tidy said:
Hi and welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

On a car with 120K miles if there is no evidence of the rod bearing shells having been replaced I'd get them (and the engine mounts while the bottom end is off) as a precautionary measure. If it spins a bearing you're likely to be needing at least a new crankshaft and block. :eek:

I had mine replaced at 78K miles as a precautionary measure and half of them were showing copper so I was glad I'd had them done even if I did pay £1,000 back in 2020.

Whether you get them replaced or not the general consensus is that it's best to avoid labouring the engine or revving it past 3,000 until it is properly up to temperature because these engines use such thick oil (10W/60).
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Thanks, I'm glad to be here! As I haven't had a change to go check the car out yet but it's good to know what I should be asking about.

Also thanks for the general advice, it's much appreciated.
 
Welcome to the forum Mr Slash. Worth confirming that it is an Z4M you are looking at? Just that you are looking for a alternative to your small 4x4, that is more affordable to run. Many Z4's will fit that task, but I doubt the Z4M specifically is one of them.
 
buzyg said:
Welcome to the forum Mr Slash. Worth confirming that it is an Z4M you are looking at? Just that you are looking for a alternative to your small 4x4, that is more affordable to run. Many Z4's will fit that task, but I doubt the Z4M specifically is one of them.
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Hey, yea so there's both a standard Z4 and a Z4M, but just from what I can see the Z4M looks to be in better condition, hence why I'm leaning more to that one
 
If you’re looking at M and non M models, be aware that the servicing and parts on an M are noticeably more expensive. This is hardly a revelation but worth knowing before you commit.
 
beanie said:
If you’re looking at M and non M models, be aware that the servicing and parts on an M are noticeably more expensive. This is hardly a revelation but worth knowing before you commit.
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I am well aware, I'm only leaning more to the M model because it seems to have been taken better care of compared to the non M models I'm finding and figured that would be better in the long run. Do correct me if my thinking is wrong.
 
As others have said running an M will be way more expensive than a non-M version.

My M needed new front brake discs and pads last year and they cost over £700 fitted. Ms need an Inspection 1 or 2 every 4 years max that involves checking valve clearances when cold and adjusting them using shims and costs the best part of £1,000 for that.

By contrast the other models have hydraulic lifters so avoid that expense. The other 6 cylinder engines are also generally bulletproof whereas the M engine is much more highly stressed - although it is also far more of an occasion!

An M is unlikely be cheaper to run than a small 4x4 although it will put a much bigger smile on your face.

Just go into it with you eyes open and credit card at the ready!
 
Howzit. 👋🏻
Mr Tidy said:
My M needed new front brake discs and pads last year and they cost over £700 fitted. Ms need an Inspection 1 or 2 every 4 years max that involves checking valve clearances when cold and adjusting them using shims and costs the best part of £1,000 for that.
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Why 4 years max? That would definitely push up the running costs.
 
That is the service interval. I used to service mine every year regardless of miles done. If I ever get another I will be looking for such care to have been taken. The S54 is some engine. It deserves such attention. Any less and over time you will be found out.
 
MrPT said:
Howzit. 👋🏻
Why 4 years max? That would definitely push up the running costs.
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It's supposed to be Oil Service, Inspection 1, Oil Service, Inspection 2 and repeat in that order. With "condition based servicing" requiring a service after no longer than 2 year intervals that means an Inspection Service every 4 years - or sooner if you do more than about 15,000 miles in less than 2 years.
 
Mr Tidy said:
Ms need an Inspection 1 or 2 every 4 years max that involves checking valve clearances when cold and adjusting them using shims and costs the best part of £1,000 for that.
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Looks like I need to pay myself around £6000 as I have done this most years as a precaution
 
Mr Tidy said:
It's supposed to be Oil Service, Inspection 1, Oil Service, Inspection 2 and repeat in that order. With "condition based servicing" requiring a service after no longer than 2 year intervals that means an Inspection Service every 4 years - or sooner if you do more than about 15,000 miles in less than 2 years.
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Ah, yes I see what you mean.

I think I will book mine in soon for Insp 2 then as it’s been nearly 8 years since Insp 1, but only 7,000 miles, during which time I’ve done four interim oil services and the car has been SORN half the time. Would rather do that than a “proper” oil service, despite it making the history look a bit funky (which it does already, tbf, if you don’t know the SORN dates).
 
Mine had an Inspection 1 in 2013 at 48K miles. It got oil services at 60k, 65k and 68k but when I had an Inspection 2 done in 2020 (about right on mileage, but not time) at 77K it needed 5 shims.

Don't forget an Inspection 2 includes fresh gearbox and Diff fluid too.

Maybe I have been driving it a bit spiritedly, but when I had an Inspection 1 in 2024 at 91K it needed 11 shims. :D
 
I have heard it depends a lot on whether you (or your specialist) insist on the clearances being brought back towards the middle of the tolerance bands vs. them being left untouched if “in spec”.

Seems a bit of a false economy to not do the former once everything’s apart and you have the shim kit etc.
 
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