Looking for a bolt

GreySquirrel

GreySquirrel

Member
 Torquay
Can anyone help? I have discovered I'm missing a bolt/screw thing on the top of my suspension. As far as I understand, it's not essential, but can be used to adjust camber. I'd like to replace it, and hope I can
ATTACH]
undo the top mount bolts and move the strut to the correct position to fit it.

However, I can't find the bolt. Does anyone have a breaker or a totalled car that may have a spare bolt they would be kind enough to send me for a small fee?

Along with any advice. Or should I just leave well alone? The garage that did my tyres recently advised AGAINST tracking, as they said it's unusual to see a set of tyres that have worn so evenly, one of the best they've seen apparently. Would be nice to have the bolt where it should be though...

Picture 2 shows the issue...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0457.JPG
    IMG_0457.JPG
    181.2 KB · Views: 378
Don't need the bolt, was used in the factory for the alignment, no need for it. If one bolt is in and one is out though it suggests your running different cambers on both the front wheels, which isn't ideal though not world ending.

Tyre wear isn't necessarily an indication of a good / bad set up on the road. Depends what kind of set up your after but if you like the handling then wouldn't worry too much but regardless all alignments will go out of spec at some point so doesn't hurt to get it checked. Some places will check your alignment for free and only charge for adjustments / time.
 
As he said.
It’s not a camber adjustment bolt, it’s a bolt to remove to enable camber adjustment.
I usually remove them both before I take the car for an alignment.
 
Ok, so am I best to remove the other one? It seems to handle well enough, but I thought that about my old Audi until I had a Hunter Alignment done. Trouble is, everyone I've spoken to said that the BMWs are notoriously difficult to track, and all the adjusters get stuck, the guy at the tyre place said to leave well alone, as once you fiddle with alignment, you open a can of worms.

It was tram lining like mad on the (11 Year) old tyres, but it is straight as a die now.

Concerned about pressures though. I've previously used 30PSI all round, which the tyre place also put in, but all the online sites suggest 33psi front, 41psi rear, which seems excessive! Especially with no weight over the rear axle!
 
In or out, doesn't matter. It'll get removed most likely if someone does an alignment anyway, it really doesn't do anything.

Anyone that comes out with excuses about alignment before they've even looked or tried having a go I wouldn't go near. It's basically a get out of jail free card to give you a crappy alignment because they 'warned' you before hand.
Fair to say that if bolts and the such like are seized and / or rusted then yes it may well be a pig of a job / need new parts but difficult to track (align), not really, if you go somewhere that knows what they're doing and is actually competent.

If your worried about it then go somewhere that comes recommended, plenty of places on this forum that have good reviews. Or just leave it if your happy enough until you need or want to replace suspension parts then it'll need doing anyway.
It's all very well some chap saying leave well alone but it'll need doing at some point regardless, no alignment will stay the same for long. Will you need new parts to get a decent alignment done? Possibly, depends on the condition of what's already there, I guess that's what he's alluding to.

Like I say if you feel happy with what you've got at the moment and don't want to potentially have to splash some cash out on new parts then leave it be for now and worry about it when your not happy or parts need replacing anyway.

Tyre pressures should be on the door shut somewhere, don't know where is saying 41psi on the rear but you'll be driving on ice that high, probably facing the wrong way quite quickly :lol: Low 30's is a good start point, depends on tyre size and if your staggered front and rear. Most run around 30-33psi though.
Hope that helps.
 
I’ve been running 31f and 33r but like you I recently got rid of 8 yr old tyres. Made a massive difference and B21 suggested running 32f and 34r. So giving that a go. If I’m honest I can’t tell the difference :roll: But then I drive like an old man, oh yes, I am an old man :rofl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom