Locking Wheel Nuts ?

If you fit these beware.
I recently had all my tyres changed for Non run flats.
ALL of the locking wheel nuts were seized and the 'key' sheared on the first one!
It took them over four hours to get the wheels off.
Reason is that they were about 5mm too long (BMW OEM Part) and rust had formed on the threads exposed on the inside of the wheel, that was enough to shear the key off!
So, copper grease them, it will not make them come loose, they are a taper fit and rely on the taper to hold and centre the wheel as much as tightness.
I have NO lock nuts on my car, if someone nicks em I get a full new set for the price of my insurance excess and my NCD is protected....
 
I had one of the locking wheel bolts come apart when I was changing the wheels a few months ago.
Luckily it was while I was tightening them so it was not fully tight.
The bolts are made of 3 parts, the threaded part, the part the locking key goes in and the spinning collar.
The threaded part and the locking key part both have sort of splines and just presses together.
I was lucky enough to be able to hammer the locking part back onto the threaded part that was still in the wheel and turn it out.
Bad design and I will not be using them again.
 
I personally would not use copper grease some of the discs have alloy centers copper grease was designed for use with steel and can react with some alloys and cause oxidation.
There are more modern greases available that are superior, like ACF corrosion block
 
Gaffa22 said:
I personally would not use copper grease some of the discs have alloy centers copper grease was designed for use with steel and can react with some alloys and cause oxidation.
There are more modern greases available that are superior, like ACF corrosion block

Correct, the two dissimilar metals cause galvanic corrosion.
 
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