Liquid Moly Engine Flush

Christopher72

Christopher72

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 Ohio
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Been using Motul 8100 X‑Cess Gen2 5W‑40 LL‑01 every 6 months on oil changes. Very confortable with that choice and frequency. Someone had recently asked me if I'd ever done an engine flush before changes. No. But I remember how varnished the engine looked when I replaced the valve cover gasket. I figure it wouldnt hurt, either liquid moly engine flush or motul's which is a little harder to find here.

Anyone have an opinion/practice with it?
 
Oh I am sure there will be plenty of opinions. 😉

For my part, if you are doing regular changes like that then you have nothing to worry about.
I would not use one myself.

If oil coming out is more like tar, then I do very short oil and filter changes - like 1,000 miles until the oil coming out is clean once more.

I don't like aggressive cleaning of engine internals.

Others I am sure will have different opinions 🙂
 
I’d personally avoid any snake oil solutions….I’d carry on with a higher frequency oil change interval as you already do…Valvoline have introduced in the states a new version of engine oil that over 4 oil changes GENTLY removes gunk especially the piston land area…
 
Pete, I would not call an engine flush "snake oil" - but we agree on not using it :) .

The process is simple enough, using petrol derived substances to dissolve the deposits (those with better chemistry knowledge may correct me but the principle is the same).
I think of it as like spraying carb cleaner around the internals of the engine. It will work, but I would not do it to mine as you are also removing the lubrication properties of the oil on bits that really need those lubrication properties.

Oh and then you have the risk of the oil galleries (think really fine pipes getting oil around) getting blocked by debris being moved from somewhere where it is not doing any harm (like the bottom of the sump pan), to those really rather important lubrication locations.

In short, don't do it.
 
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These guys have spent a long time developing a long term use oil that does both the standard oil job with GENTLE cleaning over a multi thousand 4 change program..

IMHO much much better!

Restore & Protect - Valvoline™ Global Europe - EN

From the moment it starts for the very first time, critical parts of your engine begin building up harmful deposits that are nearly impossible to reverse - until...
www.valvolineglobal.com www.valvolineglobal.com
 
My last oil change (main dealer) they did a full flush without telling me & charged an extra £100 for the pleasure.

Hooked up the car to some kind of oil washing machine that pumped all sorts through it until clean, then refilled with fresh oil.

Does it make any sense to do this? No idea.
 
I have been thinking about doing this also, but there is a little more to it.

You add the engine flush to your existing oil, run on idle for how ever long then drain.

Then add in cheap oil, idle for same duration perhaps 30 mins or so, and then drain the cheap oil.

Then you add the new oil you actually want.
(I've heard liquimoli 5w-40 is good, but needs more research)

Then, you can add liquimoli cetatec, which has great reviews. Again, would be good to get people's thoughts on it.

The cheap oil flush after the engine flush is supposed to clear out all the crap from the first flush.
 
Boring story: I had an ancient TD5 Disco 2. It was a 13 year old, 10 owner wreck. Like all diesels it could turn clean oil black in 30 seconds. One of the things that needed checking while I worked through it's long list of jobs was the oil pump bolt as even over 100k miles there was a danger it would back out.

This involved dropping the sump and, while I was there, I gave it a thorough wipe out. The car was then run as a general workhorse and for the next 3 years and 30k miles the oil would come out nearly as clean as a petrol engine (the soot seemed to build back after that.)

So, regarding Z4s, I'd run a single can of flush through it and not think about it again as, unless you take the sump off, you're probably just wasting money repeatedly trying to wash out stuff that's not a problem and can't be easily shifted.

I'd also not overdo the engine flush. The instructions to run at idle only are there for a reason. I heard of someone who, having added the flush, drove round the corner to his mates and trashed the engine in the process.
 
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