Limp mode

J

jonmig

Member
hey guys ,please help!
Can a Z4 3.0si convert auto, all of a sudden develop a fault and end up in limp mode just because of a drained battery ?

2007 model used once a week ,never had a problem with it from new,
all of a sudden whilst travelling down the road the engine enters into limp mode and the EML light appears ,thankfully turning the ignition off and then on again once resets it and gets me home.
The next day I find that the battery is almost flat and needs charging which after 3-4 hours on charge is now back to reading 12.3v,
I then go for a test drive and after travelling about 4 miles down the road it enters back into limp mode so the next day I decide to pull the codes which are as follows

2D1E Accelerator pedal module , pedal travel sensor voltage supply
2DD2 no message from SAS control module
2DCC DME no message from ASC/DSC ASC1
2DCD DME no message from ASC/DSC ASC3

These seem to me to be a voltage issue , can anybody please advise
further before I have to visit the dealers as I'm convinced its just a
case of a new (oem replacement) battery...

cheers :wink:
 
I think you have a wiring problem? maybe something is earthing that shouldn't?
only because if it was just a battery then you should be fine when the car is running as its running off the alternator at 14v. I think theres some loose wire? or damaged wire that's going to earth when it shouldn't.
 
Could be a loose battery connection, Happened to me soon after a service, They must have disconnected the battery for some reason and forgotten to tighten it. So going over a bump or something gives an instant disconnect,
 
Thanks guys ,it did occur to me that the alternator keeps things running in a 'normal' car but I was thinking that even a drop in the normal voltage of these computers on wheels could set things astray maybe when idling or stopped at lights? ..its very strange as I have never had it serviced yet further than the dealers oil change so theres nothing been touched since it was new (25k mls on the clock).Anyway I will be taking it in this week and let you know how we go on ,wallets at the ready gulp :cry:
 
Oil service by the main dealer in 2010 was the only time :roll:
Mileage based v time based - catches many people out ...very true AlanJ :thumbsup:
 
Whys there a need to urgently service it if it only gets used once a week and has never had a problem from new? :tumbleweed:
randyf, thats exactly how I read the situation I'm betting that this is all to do with an exhausted battery afterall 7yrs is good going with the same cell! :driving:
 
Re the voltage, get yourself one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Voltmeter-BuyinCoins/dp/B0092KVYGI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403591034&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=cig+lighter+voltmeter & keep an eye on it when it happens.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the battery terminals (neg first) give the mating surfaces a good clean with a bit of fine sandpaper & reattach (pos first).

Re the servicing, personally I really cant see that oil degrades in your sump if it's not changed within the specified periods, however it'll affect your resell value as you wont be able to claim FSH as it should be serviced every 2 years regardless of mileage.
 
@TonyP

To make it short: Oil does degrade over time even if not used. This is even worse on a high reving engine like the BMW N52B30 that is driven (presumably hard) one day a week.

a quite simple to understand but long(ish) article can be found here: http://www.wearcheck.co.za/shared/Tech_Bulletin_52_lowres.pdf

I can go into quite a bit more detail if needs be.

So, for the love of your engine, change the oil ,at least, either every 2 years or when the service warning comes on. I change mine every 10k km.
 
hi ,just got my z4 back today from the dealers and heres what was found to be the problem guys ;)

Well the codes don't lie ,apparently it was down to a faulty accelerator pedal which has now been replaced and everything is working perfectly infact it could be my imagination but the engine feels even more responsive than before!

I was convinced that it was the battery at fault but apparently the power output is ok although it was recommended that I have it replaced as its no longer at its fullest capacity for turning the engine over ,so my thinking is this,either the battery went so low that it caused the pedal module to fail or the pedal module fault caused the battery to drain? I guess we'll never know..anyway now down to the repair costs which to be honest were quite reasonable from a main dealer (Williams)

Diagnostics /testing/labour and fitting (plus the part £100) and also the use of a courtesy car which by the way was a brand new series 1 M sport for 2 days and a free complimentary wash and vac total £260 ..

very pleased ...
cheers for all your help guys :thumbsup:
 
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