KW V3, Clubsport, Nitron NTR1 of Bilstein B16?

Beedub said:
clubsports are beefed up in numerous ways over the v3 units... gusset welded ARB tabs, beefed up internals to cope with the added stresses of slick tyres which they are designed around, the clubsport can support up to 700lbs linear springs too, why on earth you'd want to do that ill never know.

No, the 2 way clubsport and V3 are constructed the same way. Only the valving shims (as in the size of the creavases where the oil is pushed through) differs and is set for the different spring setting. But the strut is build from the same parts, same materials, same construction type.
The only thing where the v3 and clubsport can differ is in strut lenght but I think this is the same in case of the z4/z4m, as the springs are the same in lenght. (rear springs are even the same rate, same productnumber etc)
 
GuidoK said:
Beedub said:
clubsports are beefed up in numerous ways over the v3 units... gusset welded ARB tabs, beefed up internals to cope with the added stresses of slick tyres which they are designed around, the clubsport can support up to 700lbs linear springs too, why on earth you'd want to do that ill never know.

No, the 2 way clubsport and V3 are constructed the same way. Only the valving shims (as in the size of the creavases where the oil is pushed through) differs and is set for the different spring setting. But the strut is build from the same parts, same materials, same construction type.
The only thing where the v3 and clubsport can differ is in strut lenght but I think this is the same in case of the z4/z4m, as the springs are the same in lenght. (rear springs are even the same rate, same productnumber etc)

would you like me to copy the email kw sent me when i asked this very question..... ??? i'll take the word of the guys building the units.... :evil: :evil:
 
I'm also in the market for suspension, it's clubsports for me, have been on to KW recently. Just in case you don't know, if you have a strut bar you need to ask them for longer studs. See below.

KW:
The Clubsport top mount comes with 3 studs that have thread length of 25mm, you need 40mm studs which we have when using a brace. Unfortunately KW Germany will not swap them during production you will have to do this

and

KW:
Yes we can supply the studs that’s no problem, when you order we just need to know you require the longer ones. Part number 65150260.
 
Easty-5 said:
Any input on spacers guys? Will I need them with 9.5" ET20 rear and 8.5" ET35 fronts?


no spacers needed for those offset id guess but can't be sure until you try, rear is fine, front Should be good as well tbh....
 
Clubsport people could you share your opinion on this?

Down a normal semi bumpy b road is the car more capable than standard or is it worse?

I find the skipping around as standard annoying and I do want to make it better when I eventually buy some new suspension

Thanks!
 
Raiets, I've used V3s for years with no issues, for me the only difference on this car is the non linear springs on the front which is making me look at clubsports.

Monaco, go with the kw recommended settings that come in the book with the suspension, they are always a good starting point.
 
Beedub said:
would you like me to copy the email kw sent me when i asked this very question..... ??? i'll take the word of the guys building the units.... :evil: :evil:

Well, to shed some light on this matter once and for all I had contact with KW's developmentdepartment in Germany, and it's even a bit different than I thought:

Apart from the front springs, the shocks are exactly the same!
So the dimensions, construction and valving are the same.
This is both for the z4m and normal z4.
So if you have V3 for a normal z4, all you need is a (or 2; for each front shock 1) 170mm spring with 70N/mm springrate to turn it into a clubsport set.

And if you have a V3 for z4m, you need 2 170mm 70N/mm springs, 2 helper springs, 2 upper springcups and 2 springrings (ring between helper and mainspring).

But as valving is the same, you could also use the 170mm 50N/mm springs on a z4m clubsport set, so then you have the same V3 configuration as the z4 has with lineair springs.
I think that's cheaper than turning the z4m (progressive) V3 kit into a lineair kit as you don't need to buy the helpersprings, springcups etc etc (but I haven't calculated that..)

So that's it. They made it much simpeler for us than we could have ever imagined :lol:

Indeed as for settings, start with the 'recommended setting', which is the knobs about in the middle (exact position is in the booklet).
I set mine only on the front 3 clicks heavier on bump, and 2 clicks heavier on rebound. (that was the first setting I tried to get rid of a tiny bit more cornerdive in the front, and it was to my liking. It was not a long trial and error process....)
 
Can't offer any comparative info regarding the suspension in OP but had Nitron NTR's on last Elise.....looked quality product and surprisingly able on the rough roads up here in Scotland.Recommended to be checked/rebuilt at 20K intervals which might be an issue though and I couldn't find an authorised dealer in Scotland.
 
GuidoK said:
Beedub said:
would you like me to copy the email kw sent me when i asked this very question..... ??? i'll take the word of the guys building the units.... :evil: :evil:

Well, to shed some light on this matter once and for all I had contact with KW's developmentdepartment in Germany, and it's even a bit different than I thought:

Apart from the front springs, the shocks are exactly the same!
So the dimensions, construction and valving are the same.
This is both for the z4m and normal z4.
So if you have V3 for a normal z4, all you need is a (or 2; for each front shock 1) 170mm spring with 70N/mm springrate to turn it into a clubsport set.

And if you have a V3 for z4m, you need 2 170mm 70N/mm springs, 2 helper springs, 2 upper springcups and 2 springrings (ring between helper and mainspring).

But as valving is the same, you could also use the 170mm 50N/mm springs on a z4m clubsport set, so then you have the same V3 configuration as the z4 has with lineair springs.
I think that's cheaper than turning the z4m (progressive) V3 kit into a lineair kit as you don't need to buy the helpersprings, springcups etc etc (but I haven't calculated that..)

So that's it. They made it much simpeler for us than we could have ever imagined :lol:

Indeed as for settings, start with the 'recommended setting', which is the knobs about in the middle (exact position is in the booklet).
I set mine only on the front 3 clicks heavier on bump, and 2 clicks heavier on rebound. (that was the first setting I tried to get rid of a tiny bit more cornerdive in the front, and it was to my liking. It was not a long trial and error process....)

Brilliant info thanks!

Clubsports it is then, good to know the valving can take a lighter spring just in case it's misbehaving on the road.
 
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