Key Fob
- Thread starter ronk
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
ronk said:Thanks for that info
The spare key and fob have been sitting in the safe for the majority of their life, so i think it may be prudent to use them for a change - there must be some drain / loss while unused.
I rotate the use of them when I can to keep them charged
At the summit of the picturesque fens
I know this an old thread but did a search and this one came up.
Does the key charge in the slot without the ignition on (ie not pressing start button)?
IE if I stick it in the slot and do nothing will it charge?
If so does anyone how long it takes to 'fully charge'?
Does the key charge in the slot without the ignition on (ie not pressing start button)?
IE if I stick it in the slot and do nothing will it charge?
If so does anyone how long it takes to 'fully charge'?
Technical background:
Rechargeable battery or regular battery of the remote key
Depending on the vehicle equipment, an integrated rechargeable battery or an integrated regular battery provides the voltage supply of the remote key. A regular battery is fitted if the vehicle has Comfort Access (CA). In all other cases, a rechargeable battery is fitted.
The regular battery cannot be charged. The battery must be replaced if there is no longer any voltage supply for the remote key.
The rechargeable battery cannot be replaced individually and is charged when the remote key is locked into position in the ignition lock. A 125 kHz interface within the ignition lock executes the recharging. The rechargeable battery voltage is monitored independently by the remote key and is transmitted to the central gateway module via the data bus K-CAN PERIPHERY.
Unfortunately I didn't find a more detailled description. The "slide-in-compartment" in the middle is the place to push the FOB in.
Rechargeable battery or regular battery of the remote key
Depending on the vehicle equipment, an integrated rechargeable battery or an integrated regular battery provides the voltage supply of the remote key. A regular battery is fitted if the vehicle has Comfort Access (CA). In all other cases, a rechargeable battery is fitted.
The regular battery cannot be charged. The battery must be replaced if there is no longer any voltage supply for the remote key.
The rechargeable battery cannot be replaced individually and is charged when the remote key is locked into position in the ignition lock. A 125 kHz interface within the ignition lock executes the recharging. The rechargeable battery voltage is monitored independently by the remote key and is transmitted to the central gateway module via the data bus K-CAN PERIPHERY.
Unfortunately I didn't find a more detailled description. The "slide-in-compartment" in the middle is the place to push the FOB in.
engine killer
Member
oh forgive my lousy English, does it mean if i have a key that i can replace the coin battery it does nothing if i stick the key in the ignition slot?
engine killer
Member
Thanks RobbiZ4.
both of my keys have a flap and there is a CR2032 coin type battery inside. may i assume when i stick the key in the slot it will not do anything including charging?
both of my keys have a flap and there is a CR2032 coin type battery inside. may i assume when i stick the key in the slot it will not do anything including charging?
A point of note for all comfort access car owners (keyless entry/start).
Its good practice to pop your key into the slot every now and then as it resets the data held by the key.
If you dont do this you can start getting little problems like unlocking/locking via fob buttons not working or the car locking itself with the key inside etc.
Its good practice to pop your key into the slot every now and then as it resets the data held by the key.
If you dont do this you can start getting little problems like unlocking/locking via fob buttons not working or the car locking itself with the key inside etc.
I am reviving this thread with some hopefully useful information about the rechargeable remote fobs. I tried to use the 2nd fob that had been unused for awhile and it did not recharge. I ordered a new case and button assembly for the NON-rechargeable fob along with a new rechargeable battery (see pics),I did this because it comes apart and goes back together,the rechargeable fob is very hard to disassemble and did not go back together. The only difference is the metal contacts for the rechargeable battery which I removed and it has a removable back to access the battery which is no longer functional. I just cut the case apart at the seam,removed the pc board and soldered a new battery in (be sure to buy the Panasonic with the proper pin orientation) opened the new case ,removed the metal battery contacts and installed the pc board in the new case including the new buttons and now everything is new except the board-seems to work fine...
I think this thread needs clarifying as it is bothering me:
If you have 'non comfort access', that is a standard key fob which has to be physically put into the dashboard slot to start the car, then it DOES NOT have a battery which can be changed. The battery is charged from the car via an induction loop when the key is inserted.
If you have 'comfort access' and the key does not have to be inserted into the dashboard (keyless go) then the battery is NOT RECHARGEABLE and needs changing when it loses power.
Hacking apart induction loop keys and re-soldering new batteries in is potentially VERY dangerous with Lithium Ion batteries, as they are generally NOT rechargeable. LI-ion batteries can explode if charged incorrectly.
The battery in a 'non comfort access' key fob is ONLY charged to complete the remote functions; ie unlocking and locking the car, and opening the boot and roof. A virtually flat battery in the fob will still start the car, as it just makes a circuit of the induction loop, it just won't do the other functions.
If you have 'non comfort access', that is a standard key fob which has to be physically put into the dashboard slot to start the car, then it DOES NOT have a battery which can be changed. The battery is charged from the car via an induction loop when the key is inserted.
If you have 'comfort access' and the key does not have to be inserted into the dashboard (keyless go) then the battery is NOT RECHARGEABLE and needs changing when it loses power.
Hacking apart induction loop keys and re-soldering new batteries in is potentially VERY dangerous with Lithium Ion batteries, as they are generally NOT rechargeable. LI-ion batteries can explode if charged incorrectly.
The battery in a 'non comfort access' key fob is ONLY charged to complete the remote functions; ie unlocking and locking the car, and opening the boot and roof. A virtually flat battery in the fob will still start the car, as it just makes a circuit of the induction loop, it just won't do the other functions.
Well, I beg to disagree. I did not "hack" anything. All I did was separate the case (which at that point needs to be replaced as I mentioned) and moved the board over to the new case after resoldering in a new OEM battery, which by the way is rechargeable and you are not putting heat to the battery,only to the 2 pins for a quick second ( how do you think they built the thing in the 1st place?) ,it works and the car starts fine ,I assume it is charging as it is the original pc board,pondrew if this makes you uncomfortable don't do it,but don't try to scare others from trying it themselves so they can save 400 bucks not buying one from the dealer because the battery went dead-come on man!
spitfun said:
Sorry but 'recommending' a bodge on equipment you don't really understand is not responsible on a public forum IMO.
The case on an induction loop fob cannot be put back together for a very good reason; the batteries are not meant to be replaced (for safety).
Don't take it personally; you do whatever you feel is right.