Key Cutting / Programming in CAMBRIDGE, UK (+ Carly via Cable)

IAmOrion

Senior member
Cambridge, UK
UPDATE: Given that the cutter is a bit hit and miss (I did a key the other day, that worked in all locks but refused to turn the ignition), rather than risk ruining anyone's key, if 'you' purchase a key, and get it cut from your local Timpsons or independent cutter, (I would imagine this would cost around £5) I can then program the key to start the car.

Going forward, I will only be offering Transponder & Remote programming (which is, in fact, the costly part via BMW). :thumbsup:

To help forum members out too, the cost for programming is what I will call "Beer Money" aka "Adult Pocket Money" - in other words, pay me what you can afford - around the £20 is a very fair price for programming :driving:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey,

So I have now got a Defu 368a key cutting machine, as well as the EWS Programmer (AK-90+) for EWS 2/3/4 ...

Prices and details at bottom of post if want to jump over my current experience

Obviously, Mike aka Ducklakeview is also offering this service, I don't wish to compete so to speak, I just want to help members out by offering my services in Cambridge for any members that may be much closer to me.

I have a Defu 368a and have already undertaken a few tests to test the quality of numerous blanks available on eBay.

IMG_0342.jpg

The first ones I bought were the same Diamond shape as the OEM key. They came with the electronics included and cost £8 delivered.
The remotes and transponders are great... however, I found the blades themselves to be a very soft, if not too soft metal. With no downward pressure, other than the tracer barely touching the full depth of the OEM key, it cut straight through :rofl:

IMG_0344.jpg

So my first impression of those particular keys from that seller are not great. I have some others on order awaiting to arrive that I hope will be a better quality blade.

I had also tried the "Flip Key" style that, for £5.98 delivered comes with just the shell and a blank blade. The case/shell itself was awful... terrible quality. So much so that I applied to be refunded and return it via eBay. They refunded me my money and I got to keep the shell.

So I figured I'd test the blade since I'd already buggered 2 up, I figured another wouldn't matter :roll:
To my surprise, the blade itself was far far better.

IMG_0345.jpg

IMG_0347.jpg

A Perfect, copy... fitted and works perfectly! The problem being the flip mechanism is shockingly rubbish, so this shell is of no use to me but it was good to test the blade material.

I also ordered a "Bentley Style" flip key - different I think to the one Mike ordered as mine is different to the one he pictured.

IMG_0353.jpg

IMG_0354.jpg

IMG_0355.jpg

I will be testing cutting of the blade tomorrow (Friday) afternoon after work and will report back. This key cost me £21 off eBay inc delivery, and includes the blade, remote & transponder & BMW emblem. Already this feels the best quality I've tried yet. It has a nice weight to it, the flip mechanism is very nice, the buttons feel nice and all round it feels like it has real quality.

The next thing to test was the AK-90+. So the first step was to remove my EWS Module. To do this, here's what I did:

There are 3 screws that need to be removed on the lip of the tray under the steering column

Screws 1 & 2

WO0lV3c.jpg

(Screw 2 shown again, and Screw 3)

cEZdTpI.jpg

With the screws undone, you can now move the tray lip down, revealing the "BMW Gong" and footwell light. Unplug the gong and the footwell light, then you can pull the tray forward and out.

7W67R5q.jpg

Once removed, you want to look on the right hand side, above the accelerator pedal height (Above the speaker)

XnNRSBH.jpg

You will spot the EWS module, held in place via 2 10mm nylon nuts

6Lc62ZK.jpg

Undo the nuts, and it will come free:

vH42le3.jpg

You can then simply unplug it and then pop the top cover off (You can see the little "clips" holding the top closed

rHEhACG.jpg

Once you've opened the top, the you need to poke the little retaining tabs (x4) around the plug socket and it will easily pull out

KXvMzuM.jpg

On the right hand side you will see the MCU. There will be an ID on the chip. It may be hard to see in the picture below, but my chips ID is 0D46J

bwCZFdl.jpg

Next I plugged it in the AK-90+ and fired up the software

j3l0Gv0.jpg

ak-90.png

Took me about 10 mins, including some "exploring" of the software to read the new transponder, and add it to EWS. I then plugged it back into the car to test & it worked perfectly!! Happy Days 8)

So, the important part - Details

I would rather not get caught up with ordering keys for people - purely because when I have previously offered service to a different forum (was a different car too, SAAB) I had people placing orders, so I ordered keys, then they backed out and I was left sitting with £100 worth of blanks it was too late to return.

SO, ideally, I would prefer people to purchase their own choice of blank from eBay or where ever. I will add links to this post over the weekend once I have tested more as they arrive tomorrow/Saturday. For the E85 make sure you order an HU92 blank blade. Transponder should be a PCF7935 with ID44.

I was thinking £40 to cut & code seems a fair price for people providing their own keys. I would be willing to order blanks for people, presuming they pay for the cost of the blank UPFRONT and then the remainder can be settled when they visit me to cut/code. If cancelled for any reason - I would post them the blank, OR try to sell it on for them

If you're feeling ballsy I can set the machine up, and you can cut your own blade using my machine, reducing the cost to £30 for the transponder & RF coding. 8)

I also have the OBD 2 Cable for Carly (Android Version) as well as Carly Pro on my Nexus 7 tablet.

Anyone is welcome to code during their visit, or can have stuff coded for what I will call "Beer Money" aka donations :) .

Try and make sure the cable will work via research first. But if in doubt, we can always plug it in and see if it 'detects' the modules :wink:

If you want any more information please get in touch.

I'd like to just repeat, I don't intend to be a direct competitor for Mike, I don't plan on stocking blanks etc etc just trying to offer forum members a cheap service for those closer to Cambridge (CB22)
 

Attachments

  • ak-90.png
    ak-90.png
    146.3 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0355.jpg
    IMG_0355.jpg
    151 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0354.jpg
    IMG_0354.jpg
    120 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0353.jpg
    IMG_0353.jpg
    130.3 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0347.jpg
    IMG_0347.jpg
    98.6 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0345.jpg
    IMG_0345.jpg
    98.8 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0344.jpg
    IMG_0344.jpg
    300.8 KB · Views: 3,861
  • IMG_0342.jpg
    IMG_0342.jpg
    160.4 KB · Views: 3,861
The reason you've cut through the key is machine setup. You have to make sure you allow for the spring compression in the tracing head. This is done by setting the cutting tip approx 0.5mm higher than the tracing tip. I did the same with my first blank, until I decided to use the photo feature of Google translate on the instructions.

The thickness of the metal remaining between the two cuts needs to be about 0.5-0.55mm, any more and they key won't go in the lock, any less and you risk it breaking up. Also, putting the keys into the machine like that, unless you have them shimmed up from the bottom, you'll get a different depth of cut every time. I cut mine like this, which is how the machine was designed to do them, with the back of the key resting against the clamp;

20170907_095139.jpg

Now I've got mine set up, I can pull the lever down and lock it into place before proceeding with the cut.

HTH

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
The reason you've cut through the key is machine setup. You have to make sure you allow for the spring compression in the tracing head. This is done by setting the cutting tip approx 0.5mm higher than the tracing tip. I did the same with my first blank, until I decided to use the photo feature of Google translate on the instructions.

The thickness of the metal remaining between the two cuts needs to be about 0.5-0.55mm, any more and they key won't go in the lock, any less and you risk it breaking up.

Now I've got mine set up, I can pull the lever down and lock it into place before proceeding with the cut.

HTH

Mike

I have the cutter 0.5mm higher than the tracer... I even tested on an old non bmw now useless blank and it worked a treat... then I moved to those cheap(ish) diamond ones it was barely touching (the spring still had movement to be depressed a fraction further) it still went through.

But I do also agree a bit of practise will get better :lol: I've ordered some more HU92 blades only from (from memory) AliExpress to practice with

oooh interesting, I used the L shape stopper thing and only went as far as them. I also sussed a better way to clamp than in my picture. But my 3rd attempt on the flip blade was perfect (just a shame the seller I chose has rubbish quality ones)
 
Also interested as I live near norwich so a trip to Cambridge and back is much easier than a trip to mike and back!

Busy for a couple of weekends but happy to arrange a trip once I'm free again at a weekend!
 
Thanks all :) I’m still “fine tuning” my skills atm so a few weeks is good as it’ll give me chance to get used to it.

Out of 6 (not including the very first 2 I destroyed ha) I’ve managed 50/50.

3 work perfectly, 3 don’t. 1 only works on the locks but won’t turn the ignition. Once I’ve got it down and perfected the cutting I’ll take actual requests 8)

But obv wanted to learn (and ruin) my own first :rofl:

I haven’t cut the Bentley blade yet as at £21 I don’t wanna get the blade wrong! I did how ever dismantle it to inspect quality of build. I have to say, I was impressed - very nice indeed. Good quality build IMO
 
Literally couldn't make up this timing!!!

Got home, went to hang keys up and dropped them..... this happened :headbang:

Guess I'll glue it up and come see you in a few weeks for a new main key!! (Bently flip key I'm thinking!) and keep this 1 for my spare!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9017.JPG
    IMG_9017.JPG
    289.6 KB · Views: 3,721
JINGLE said:
Literally couldn't make up this timing!!!

Got home, went to hang keys up and dropped them..... this happened :headbang:

Guess I'll glue it up and come see you in a few weeks for a new main key!! (Bently flip key I'm thinking!) and keep this 1 for my spare!

s**t, that's annoying!!

You've just reminded me I was going to post links.... I will post again shortly to the ones I've tried and tested - both standard and fancy
 
Just glued it up and should be fine again! I'll give tna few weeks for you to get up to scratch and have tried a few different options and review the quality etc :)
 
Just a quick update:

I've pretty much got the cutting sussed I believe 8)

I recently cut 10 to test. 9 out of the 10 were perfect FIRST TIME! :driving: The 1 that wasn't was due to the milling bit breaking (There was an horrible crunch noise and 2 of the "flutes" on the 4 flute bit broke off. The machine jumped a bit and caused the blade to get cut wrongly)

Any way, after feeling pretty confident, I decided I could now go ahead and cut my Bentley style flip key I had. Here are the results:

Blade:

ba3140836dde45f5b3d832fe0d107b69.jpg


Top:

600823f18d8703e1025268350638b25f.jpg


Bottom:

f8ce897a7a96b79d629fc9555af50782.jpg


Remote buttons took a bit of faffing (The diamond keys worked first time every time) but got there after 10mins of messing around. This is now my main key. Very chuffed if I do say so myself :thumbsup: :D
 
Looking good!

I’ll be interested in a Bentley key when I finally get around to sorting it
 
JINGLE said:
Looking good!

I’ll be interested in a Bentley key when I finally get around to sorting it

Thanks :)

FYi: I bought my Bentley flip from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/391472329898

Arrived quickly and has everything you need (includes electronics and transponder)
 
Rusky said:
Is it the 433Mhz transponder?

Yes - 433mhz is the UK frequency for remotes.

The MHz refers to the RF frequency of the remote, not the transponder. Transponder should be a PCF7935 with ID44 :thumbsup:
 
Rusky said:
Key ordered :thumbsup:

Nice one :) I think I’ve already said it, but I’m actually impressed with the quality. Feels weighty and well built. Mine is my new daily / main key.

Through all my testing I now have like 4 fully working keys for mine :rofl:
 
cool it does say that the key is changed to 433Mhz by pressing a sequence of buttons but it looked straightforward enough.
 
Rusky said:
cool it does say that the key is changed to 433Mhz by pressing a sequence of buttons but it looked straightforward enough.

Yeah, I must say it took a little faffing around to get it to work, I’m not sure exactly what it did but it suddenly worked (I was pressing all sorts in it during the remote programming phase. My 2 Diamond keys programmed perfectly but this was a pain BUT I got there in the end lol)
 
Key arrived and i have to say it does feel good quality :thumbsup: I will give you a shout once i have been paid at the end of the month and arrange a key cutting visit :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top Bottom