Just bled my brakes - new fluid in system

[Lance]

Took about 15 minutes per corner and a really simple job.

Tools needed, jack, wheel brace, 9mm ring spanner.

Also needed, Something to drain old fluid, bottle of new brake fluid and some cloth, oh and a helper for the brake pumping.

Give it a go if yours is due, better than paying the dealer!

 

[AlanJ]

Good man. CDV next...?

 

[Lance]

Good man. CDV next...?

Yep, need to get this done, the gear change is doing my head in. Am fairly competent with most basic mechanics but the problem for me here is getting under the car......axle stands to be purchased me thinks

4 new tyres going on in the next 2 weeks, probably Non RFTs Vredstein U S's. Will then have 2 less then half used Bridgestone RFT's for sale....225/45/17's, but need to double check that size before affering them for sale.


Cheers
Lance

 

[Anonymous]

4 new tyres going on in the next 2 weeks, probably Non RFTs Vredstein U S's. Will then have 2 less then half used Bridgestone RFT's for sale....225/45/17's, but need to double check that size before affering them for sale.

I could be interested in these when they come up, Would appreciate a shout with tread depths and what ££ you want for em when you go to sell them

 

[jamiez]

Nice one Lance - doing mine this weekend i think.

Did you simply pump all the fluid out via pumping and the same when pouring new fluid in?

 

[Shipkiller]

Did you simply pump all the fluid out via pumping and the same when pouring new fluid in?

Since this question was asked:

DO NOT, REPEAT DO NOT

Let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below 1/4 full (or put another way, 3/4 empty). If you do, you will be towing your car to the dealer for a fix.

Since these are ABS cars, if you get air into the master cylinder, there is a large chance you will get air into the ABS block and you need special software to be able to command the ABS actuation valves open and closed to get the air out.

What you are doing is a flush and not just a bleeding. I would also recommend that you used a different colored fluid so you absolutly know when the old fluid has left that circuit.

To really flush the system out, since most of you cannot command the ABS for a true flush, after the first flush, go out and cycle the ABS several time with some very aggressive stops to get the new fluid into the ABS control unit. Then flush again. This step is not required, but it is the way to make sure all the old fluid is out of the system.

 

[Lance]

Nice one Lance - doing mine this weekend i think.

Did you simply pump all the fluid out via pumping and the same when pouring new fluid in?

first off, agree with mr killer, do not let the fluid drop below the exit hole of the master cylinder.

I started with the rear passenger brake, bled it till very low in the master cylinder (MC) then topped up to about half way and bled a little more, this would ensure MC has more or less completely new fluid as does the pipe to the rear caliper and said caliper.

Then bled the other rear caliper, but not as much as the first one, as only the claiper and pipe need flushing, repeated for front passenger and then driver side, ensure enough fluid passed through to replace what was in the pipe and calipers.

Method, helper pumps pedal and keep pressure on, crack nipple and let pedal fall to floor, nip up nipple and build up pressure again, crack nipple, pedal to the floor, nip up and repeat over and over again. Keep a close eye on the fluid throughout.

There was some air in the rear calipers, but very little.

Have been out in the car today and all works well.

I know there are many different opinions on brake fluid changes, however the process/theory is very simple and this way works for me.

Cheers
lance

 

[Lance]

4 new tyres going on in the next 2 weeks, probably Non RFTs Vredstein U S's. Will then have 2 less then half used Bridgestone RFT's for sale....225/45/17's, but need to double check that size before affering them for sale.

I could be interested in these when they come up, Would appreciate a shout with tread depths and what ££ you want for em when you go to sell them

Nosa

you will get first shout......Size quoted is correct.

Cheers

 

[Shipkiller]

If you all bleed/flush your brake system more than once every two years like, me then you want to replace your bleeder valves with SpeedBleeders. http://www.speedbleeder.com

I am not sure if you can get them in Europe but they make bleeding your brake system a one man job. With these, I don't even have to raise the car.

I flush a pint before each track event and a pint after each track event.

I also have a speedbleeder in the clutch slave cylinder. When I to a complete flush, the clutch also gets flushed.