Jacking Points

[TheDan]

Hi again!

Following on from my Trolley Jack thread I have done a bunch of searching to find the "correct" ways to jack the Z4.

In terms of jacking the rear (for wheels off) it seems quite straight forward:

• Jack at the side rear jacking point and place wood/brick below rear wheel then lower the vehicle.

• Repeat for the other side if the jack still wont reach rear centre jacking point.

• Jack the car at the rear centre jacking point between the two support braces.

• Place the axle stands under the side rear jacking points.

However, for the front it seems a lot more difficult for non-M vehicles providing you don't want to use the front centre jacking point and bend the aluminium stiffening plate.

I have found a few examples where people use the side jacking points to raise the front enough to put axle stands at the side front jacking points. But this has seemed a bit iffy at best and I was hoping for a better solution.

Looking at some images online of the underside of the Z4, would it be possible/sensible to jack at the suspension arm to frame location (pink circles in image below - ignore the red arrow). After jacking you would then place axle stands under the side front jacking points.

 

[Jfgoldfish]

The roadster chassis is so stiff you can just jack from the rear pad until the front will fit an axle stand under it.
Once both fonts are lifted, I then jack the rear from the centre point. Just make sure the jack is free to roll as it lifts so you don't pull the car off the front stands!

 

[enuff_zed]

The roadster chassis is so stiff you can just jack from the rear pad until the front will fit an axle stand under it.
Once both fonts are lifted, I then jack the rear from the centre point. Just make sure the jack is free to roll as it lifts so you don't pull the car off the front stands!

I followed this suggestion a few weeks back on the wife's E85. I reached a point; with the front axle stand in on one side and jacking the other side from the rear; where the car was balanced in the air on just the one axle stand and the diametrically opposite trolley jack. Not something that instils much confidence in a narrow garage, but it does prove the chassis rigidity.

 

[TheDan]

The roadster chassis is so stiff you can just jack from the rear pad until the front will fit an axle stand under it.
Once both fonts are lifted, I then jack the rear from the centre point. Just make sure the jack is free to roll as it lifts so you don't pull the car off the front stands!

I followed this suggestion a few weeks back on the wife's E85. I reached a point; with the front axle stand in on one side and jacking the other side from the rear; where the car was balanced in the air on just the one axle stand and the diametrically opposite trolley jack. Not something that instils much confidence in a narrow garage, but it does prove the chassis rigidity.

Thanks for the replies!

As above I had heard of people using this method and it doesn't seem stable or instil confidence while jacking the car up like this. If I have to (ie there is no other method and the suspension arm is not adequate) I will use this method.

I have heard of a few people jacking the car up near (I think slightly inboard) the jacking points, leaving enough room to place an axle stand under the proper side jacking point. Would this work if you used a block of wood near the side jacking point to try to spread the load properly?

 

[Jfgoldfish]

where the car was balanced in the air on just the one axle stand and the diametrically opposite trolley jack.

I was shocked at how perfect the front/rear weight balance is on these cars!

I know it is not a comfortable situation when your car is balancing like a seesaw on the jack and stand but there is very little chance of somehow knocking it off. I actually doubt you could push it off if you tried.

I do agree though; I wish there was a good way of lifting the zed using a small jack on a driveway.

 

[sjj84]

I've always used the rear jack point to raise the side high enough to put front stands in as described above. Never had a problem until jacking up to remove the stands one day and the jack released a bit quick and the whole car wobbled. No damage caused but not something I'd like to repeat. As I like to tinker, I've since bought a scissor lift. Expensive but christ it's handy.

 

[Jfgoldfish]

As I like to tinker, I've since bought a scissor lift. Expensive but christ it's handy.

I'm a bit of a tinkerer myself! Which scissor lift did you buy?

 

[colb]

I invested in a scissor lift got one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobile-car-scissor-liftCAR-LIFT-MID-RISE-SCISSOR-MOBILE/333677336862?hash=item4db0b8191e:g:L9gAAOSwUm5b5r72
You do need scaffold planks laid either side of it two planks wide and two deep to drive onto to raise the car clear of the lift, position the car so the swing arms can be put under the cars jacking points and away you go. You do need a 32Amp cabled supply for the pump to operate without tripping a normal 13amp socket. I have limited roof height in my prefab double garage but manage to lift the Z3 and Z4 roof down to waist high at the wheels so ample room to get underneath. If you fancy one of these then go to his own website, you get a better deal than going through ebay. Comes delivered on a pallet but its extreamly heavy, mine was offloaded on a tail lift then onto a pallet truck and roughly positioned in my garage so I could unpack it and final position it. http://www.bhrepairs.co.uk/

 

[sjj84]

https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7532b-3-2t-mid-rise-scissor-lift/

This is the one I've got. Needs a 16a supply and bolting down. Each platform weighs about 300kg so it is a bit of a challenge to fit it, I used an engine crane and managed on my own.

Works a treat though, it's rated to lift 3200kg, lifts my 5 series no bother at all. Also makes a fantastic height adjustable workbench!