Issue

[CryptoWhale]

I've done this process a few times now and I'm still getting the temp gauge jumping up and down going to the red and staying there for a minute or so before jumping back down to the center.

The low coolant light does not come on now when I have the heaters on though, unlike before.

When I do the bleed procedure, it sounds like the water pump is only working in intervals. Is this how it's supposed to work? Or is it supposed to be constant? I've seen videos on YouTube with the expansion cap off during bleed procedure and there is a constant flow of water into the expansion tank. Mine doesn't do this

What’s the mileage on your car? It sounds as though your electronic pump’s starting to expire, are you getting the radiator fan chiming in from a cold start? :?
Rob

It's 113k miles. Not getting the radiator fan nope, that only comes on when the temp gauge goes up to the red bit, then turns off when the temp gauge jumps back down to the center.

If it is the water pump, how long have I got before it completely packs in?

 

[CryptoWhale]

I've done this process a few times now and I'm still getting the temp gauge jumping up and down going to the red and staying there for a minute or so before jumping back down to the center.

The low coolant light does not come on now when I have the heaters on though, unlike before.

When I do the bleed procedure, it sounds like the water pump is only working in intervals. Is this how it's supposed to work? Or is it supposed to be constant? I've seen videos on YouTube with the expansion cap off during bleed procedure and there is a constant flow of water into the expansion tank. Mine doesn't do this

What’s the mileage on your car? It sounds as though your electronic pump’s starting to expire, are you getting the radiator fan chiming in from a cold start? :?
Rob

Apologies I thought the pump had already been replaced!!

No mate, it's the expansion tank I've just had replaced

 

[Smartbear]

I've done this process a few times now and I'm still getting the temp gauge jumping up and down going to the red and staying there for a minute or so before jumping back down to the center.

The low coolant light does not come on now when I have the heaters on though, unlike before.

When I do the bleed procedure, it sounds like the water pump is only working in intervals. Is this how it's supposed to work? Or is it supposed to be constant? I've seen videos on YouTube with the expansion cap off during bleed procedure and there is a constant flow of water into the expansion tank. Mine doesn't do this

What’s the mileage on your car? It sounds as though your electronic pump’s starting to expire, are you getting the radiator fan chiming in from a cold start? :?
Rob

It's 113k miles. Not getting the radiator fan nope, that only comes on when the temp gauge goes up to the red bit, then turns off when the temp gauge jumps back down to the center.

If it is the water pump, how long have I got before it completely packs in?

If it’s the pump i wouldn’t be driving it until it’s replaced, get a code reader hooked up & see what it tells you. These pumps can be on thin ice after 70k miles so if it’s not been replaced already it’s done extremely well to make it to 113k!
Rob
R

 

[CryptoWhale]

What’s the mileage on your car? It sounds as though your electronic pump’s starting to expire, are you getting the radiator fan chiming in from a cold start? :?
Rob

It's 113k miles. Not getting the radiator fan nope, that only comes on when the temp gauge goes up to the red bit, then turns off when the temp gauge jumps back down to the center.

If it is the water pump, how long have I got before it completely packs in?

If it’s the pump i wouldn’t be driving it until it’s replaced, get a code reader hooked up & see what it tells you. These pumps can be on thin ice after 70k miles so if it’s not been replaced already it’s done extremely well to make it to 113k!
Rob
R

Thanks, I'll order a code reader now.

What sort of cost should I expect for a water pump and fitting of it?

 

[Sidewaze Samm]

What sort of cost should I expect for a water pump and fitting of it?

If you go to a decent indy you'll certainly save a load over what BMW will charge. Think I paid something over £350 if I remember correctly. I changed mine at 110k purely as a precaution, as with these it is just a matter of when not if...

 

[Mr Tidy]

Both times my electric water pumps died the engine overheated in less than a mile - once in an E86 at 60K miles and once in an E91 3 Series at 135K.

I got a silly bill for the first one because my Indy bought the new pump from BMW for £500+.

But he must have bought elsewhere for my E91 because the pump was £301+VAT. Total cost with fitting and anti-freeze was £541.20 in May 2018 which was a bit less painful.

Still it did mean I knew it would be years before either of them needed another one!

 

[CryptoWhale]

So after purchasing a obd2 device here are the results



So either the obd2 doesn't work, or I actually have zero faults :roll:

 

[tiglon]

Could be that the cheap crappy OBDII scanner that some idiot recommended to you doesn't read the particular fault that you might have?

 

[R60BBA]

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I'm hoping that's all it is.

How easy is it to sort myself if it is an airlock? Is it just a matter of bleeding the system using the ignition on / heater low and gas pedal for 10 seconds?

I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage if it is due to their incompetence and to let them work on it again, along with the fact I'm working all week so they will be closed by the time I can get it there. :thumbsdown:

Which garage serviced your car last?

 

[Rich61]

I had the water pump go on the wires E86 (85000 miles)on one of the few times i use it and i'm glad it happened to me as she would of just carried on driving !!
I was on the way home from work and floored it on the M3 slip road as you do and noticed the temp gauge went in to the red but no lights on the dash. Pulled straight over to the hard shoulder. Now the strange thing was if the ignition was on without the engine running the pump worked and circulated the coolant, but if you had the engine running the pump wouldn't work.
If i was you I would put a new pump in, if you have ramps you could do it your self in less than an hour with basic tools.
Buy a pierburgh pump as they are suppliers to BMW About £200 or a cheap ebay special for about half that. You'll probably spend more than that chasing the problem and it will need a new one sooner or later.

 

[CryptoWhale]

Could be that the cheap crappy OBDII scanner that some idiot recommended to you doesn't read the particular fault that you might have?

I'll pretend I based my decision to purchase upon the 4000+ 5 star reviews on Amazon The live readings seemed to work though, coolant temp, engine RPM etc.

 

[CryptoWhale]

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I'm hoping that's all it is.

How easy is it to sort myself if it is an airlock? Is it just a matter of bleeding the system using the ignition on / heater low and gas pedal for 10 seconds?

I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage if it is due to their incompetence and to let them work on it again, along with the fact I'm working all week so they will be closed by the time I can get it there. :thumbsdown:

Which garage serviced your car last?

Got it serviced back in March I think it was by an Indy

 

[R60BBA]

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I'm hoping that's all it is.

How easy is it to sort myself if it is an airlock? Is it just a matter of bleeding the system using the ignition on / heater low and gas pedal for 10 seconds?

I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage if it is due to their incompetence and to let them work on it again, along with the fact I'm working all week so they will be closed by the time I can get it there. :thumbsdown:

Which garage serviced your car last?

Got it serviced back in March I think it was by an Indy

Yeah what is the name of the Indy buddy?