Is it a DIY Job?

Z

zedwheels

Active member
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Hi.
First I must say that I'm not the best at working on cars but I don't mind having a go at simple stuff.
I notice that the rear pads need changing soon and thought I could have a go at that! But, is it a difficult job and will I need any special tools to do the job? If there are any photo's of others who have done this would be great.
Appreciate all advice.

E89 2015 2 ltr.

Bri.
 
zedwheels said:
Hi.
First I must say that I'm not the best at working on cars but I don't mind having a go at simple stuff.
I notice that the rear pads need changing soon and thought I could have a go at that! But, is it a difficult job and will I need any special tools to do the job? If there are any photo's of others who have done this would be great.
Appreciate all advice.

E89 2015 2 ltr.

Bri.
Click to expand...

Hi, you have the added complication of the ebrake which means winding the piston into the caliper body to gain clearance for the fatter, replacement pads but it’s not difficult if you’ve worked on brakes before.
Has your dash been displaying the worn brake warning? You need a replacement sensor if that’s the case so you can reset the light.
Rob
 
In the E86, the replacement of the sensor was more difficult that replacing the rear pads.

Needed ninja-like moves..lol
 
Don't do it Brian.
I did the rear pads on my 2012 F11 a few years back. By the time I'd bought the pads and then paid Forza £40 to have the car in and reset the service light (after winding the pistons back without them being in service mode) I ended up saving myself about £50.

In hindsight Id have rather have spent 5 hours doing something else, had a stamp in the service book and kept the skin on my knuckles.
 
Dont do it Bri,
Take it in let someone else struggle.
And at your age young man if you get down u'll never get up again :rofl:
I speak from experience :D
Moz
 
Ah yes the E Brake! didn't think about that, no warning lights on just observed that the pads are down to about 3 mm.

Ok guys thanks for the advice better have a garage geezer graze his knuckles. :thumbsup:
 
Depends if you enjoy it or not. If you don't mind getting stuck in with some DIY then it's a satisfying job.

First time I changed pads it took me an hour on each corner. I was already clued up on how to release the ebrake but had to read up and watch a few DIY videos on how to get the caliper off and where to apply the lubricant.
Second time it took 30min each side and that's including doing some OCD cleaning.

If you're going to do it then make sure you get the right lubricant. I used Ceratec (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mintex-Ceratec-brake-Squeal-Lubricant-x/dp/B007IZ4VOG). Use the wrong stuff and you'll have noisy brakes.
 
my local dealer wanted £140 for the privilege of changing the rear pads, I think my mechanic charged me either £70/£80
 
I did this job a couple of months ago, just like any other pad change other than the rewinding which was easy. The piston won't moving during the rewinding process but once you've wound it all the way in (clockwise iirc) just push it in as usual.
 
PinkPineapple44 said:
I did this job a couple of months ago, just like any other pad change other than the rewinding which was easy. The piston won't moving during the rewinding process but once you've wound it all the way in (clockwise iirc) just push it in as usual.
Click to expand...
Hi. can you explain the last bit please, am I understanding you right, you wind the piston in not out? if you do mean wind it inwards all the way what do you mean then by push it in? :?
I don't think I will be doing it myself but my son in law who does do some maintenance may do it for me and I will need to explain things. Thanks.
 
I need a pair of new front disks on the 335 and like some others here - get down to the task and won't be able to get back up again!
Sad - especially as the dealer wants £640 for the replacemnts (M Sport big Disks)
 
zedwheels said:
PinkPineapple44 said:
I did this job a couple of months ago, just like any other pad change other than the rewinding which was easy. The piston won't moving during the rewinding process but once you've wound it all the way in (clockwise iirc) just push it in as usual.
Click to expand...
Hi. can you explain the last bit please, am I understanding you right, you wind the piston in not out? if you do mean wind it inwards all the way what do you mean then by push it in? :?
I don't think I will be doing it myself but my son in law who does do some maintenance may do it for me and I will need to explain things. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You remove two bolts from the back of the caliper which holds the motorised part on, then wiggle it off (there's a rubber seal inside). Once you've done that they'll be a hole you can put your torx bit into and turn clockwise till it stops.
 
You remove two bolts from the back of the caliper which holds the motorised part on, then wiggle it off (there's a rubber seal inside). Once you've done that they'll be a hole you can put your torx bit into and turn clockwise till it stops.
[/quote]

Thanks PinkPineapple44, appreciate that. Just one more question, are there brake sensors on each wheel or just one front and rear?
 
zedwheels said:
You remove two bolts from the back of the caliper which holds the motorised part on, then wiggle it off (there's a rubber seal inside). Once you've done that they'll be a hole you can put your torx bit into and turn clockwise till it stops.
Click to expand...

Thanks PinkPineapple44, appreciate that. Just one more question, are there brake sensors on each wheel or just one front and rear?
[/quote]

One on the front & one on the rear :thumbsup:
Rob
 
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