Inner toe rods

S

Sharpy1975

Member
Hey all

I believe the above are shot amd need replacing. I fancy having a go at this my self. Outter rods where done early last year, so I'm hoping not to have any issues splitting the rods or ball joint. Fingers crossed.

I think the biggest challenge will be the inner rod that connects to the rack. Anyone had any issue with this nut ceasing on?

Once/if off I will measure then replace inner rod, tighten then install back.

Any thing to look out for? OK to jack one-sided up at a time??

Thanks all.
 
Tie rod to steering rack end is 34mm spanner size to fit the flats on the rack end. A suitable flat adjustable spanner could be used if you dont have a 34mm spanner, just be careful its a tight fit on those fglats so it can provide enough torque to undo it and not slip off.
Its done up to 110Nm so should come undone without too much of an effort.
 
I've never had a spanner the right size to hand so just wound the steering "in" on the side in doing and used a monkey wrench.
 
The inner rod to rack joint should always be nice and clean and not suffered any corrosion and just come undone with a good heave.

Inner to outer joint is often helped by a little heat.
 
smorris_12 said:
The inner rod to rack joint should always be nice and clean and not suffered any corrosion and just come undone with a good heave.

Inner to outer joint is often helped by a little heat.
Click to expand...
Ace - thanks. I'll purchase a ball joint splitter incase I get stuck. I'll spray some Wd40 night before.
 
I needed heat to remove my inner rod to rack joint on one side. Remember to wind the rack in as far as possible to avoid putting much stress on it.
 
Failed... :lol:

Rack bolt came undone with a kick on an adjustable spanner, ball joint nut no problem. Couldn't undo the tie rod nut though - so either buy outter rods(cheap) or try and heat.

I didn't wind the rack in for the inner nut as getting a spanner on it would have been impossible.
 
Might as well replace the outers while you're in there. Don't forget to refit the little metal shim that prevents the nut from loosening.
 
Sorry to hear. What model? Assuming non ///M it should be possible to pick one up. Try 'bigwinn' on here
 
For the small extra cost seems no point to replace half, I did inner and out in one go as the adjuster nuts always get rusted up. (Note the collar goes on one way around against the nut, it has a slight taper)
A bolt up splitter and whacking the side of the hub split it. Large adjustable undone the rack end with any problems.
Measure the old length and set the new the same so you can get to an alignment centre immediately.

The video of your rack looks very wrong, mine had no movement.
 
9designs said:
For the small extra cost seems no point to replace half, I did inner and out in one go as the adjuster nuts always get rusted up. (Note the collar goes on one way around against the nut, it has a slight taper)
A bolt up splitter and whacking the side of the hub split it. Large adjustable undone the rack end with any problems.
Measure the old length and set the new the same so you can get to an alignment centre immediately.

The video of your rack looks very wrong, mine had no movement.
Click to expand...
Yeah...been told the rack is knackered. :(

I have BMW insured warranty. Rack is covered - just hope they have the parts.
 
plenty said:
Sorry to hear. What model? Assuming non ///M it should be possible to pick one up. Try 'bigwinn' on here
Click to expand...

Video from the other thread by the OP.
[youtube]idI6R5BcMjI[/youtube]

Im not sure how much play there is supposed to be but that looks to be at the rack end and not the steering column so not sure if tightening up the motor/ring in the car will help.
 
Some longitudinal play is expected (and that seems quite a bit) but is that some lateral play as well? That ought to be almost zero.
 
smorris_12 said:
Some longitudinal play is expected (and that seems quite a bit) but is that some lateral play as well? That ought to be almost zero.
Click to expand...

Hey...pretty sure it the rack going on what others have said. Also, every thing has been replaced apart from the inner rods - which I think look OK.

Another clip I managed get....not as clear as the 1st one can't hear the clonk.

https://youtu.be/K-sI5OxQoe4
 
Changed mine on the street Z4M to Hyd steering type

Not the safest place in the world to do it but little choice

407A69AA-AF1B-487E-BFD9-2807FC64C7EC.jpegD020B34D-FDD3-4C1D-8397-E539E9B0E4F0.jpeg
 
If ASWR BMW Dismantlers had one it would be around £65 used off a car

He believes that all the mechanical racks are the same (maybe a ration change) but they all fit all engine sizes.

Need the VIN number and real OEM to check

Try on here for a rack or try Quary breakers in Sheffield
 
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