Infotainment upgrade

[RockyFra]

Hi guys, I have a 2009 23i with professional navigator and alas standard audio system with 4 mids and 2 woofers.

I was thinking of adding a CarPlay module that is as integrated as possible with the hardware already present, let me explain better: I don't want to pass the audio through the aux, but through a bypass of the optical cable and above all use the original BMW microphone.
I spotted this box in particular:
https://www.mr12volt.com/collections/p2000-dsp/products/p2000-cicmd

At the same time I would like to update the speakers and maybe add an amplifier, I was thinking of the Focal IS 100L for the doors (woofer+tweeter), Focal IC 100L (mid) behind the seats or the Audison APBMW K4E and X4E.

Being plug and play, I shouldn't need any amplifier, but I honestly believe that the output signal isn't up to par with the current speakers either, so I'd be inclined to buy an amp, but I honestly don't know which one to get.
For now I'm going to leave the original woofers.

 

[B21]

Hi there …

IMHO you will definitely need an amp / DSP to drive some decent speakers..today quite a few options depending on your wallet and your perception of what good audio is..

AnnubisZed has done quite a few articles on MMI and also low cost speaker upgrades..

Various write ups

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1677642#p1677642

I’m currently doing a high end audio upgrade with Mr 12 Volt MOST ..

 

[AnubisZed]

Hi guys, I have a 2009 23i with professional navigator and alas standard audio system with 4 mids and 2 woofers.

I was thinking of adding a CarPlay module that is as integrated as possible with the hardware already present, let me explain better: I don't want to pass the audio through the aux, but through a bypass of the optical cable and above all use the original BMW microphone.
I spotted this box in particular:
https://www.mr12volt.com/collections/p2000-dsp/products/p2000-cicmd

At the same time I would like to update the speakers and maybe add an amplifier, I was thinking of the Focal IS 100L for the doors (woofer+tweeter), Focal IC 100L (mid) behind the seats or the Audison APBMW K4E and X4E.

Being plug and play, I shouldn't need any amplifier, but I honestly believe that the output signal isn't up to par with the current speakers either, so I'd be inclined to buy an amp, but I honestly don't know which one to get.
For now I'm going to leave the original woofers.

An excellent choice of speaker upgrades there When I made my install video for the speakers, here >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQVyPZQuB9U&t
I went the economy route and fitted Aliexpress "B&O" speakers (links in the video description). Now I'm under no illusion that they are real BMW originals, but they have turned out to be very good speakers indeed and I've had no issues with them (as have some others as well). Certainly a good idea to change the speakers and definitely add the tweeters, although I didn't find a corresponding replacement for the woofers so left them as-is.

For an amplification idea then I came across the Vibe Powerbox that plugs into your existing loom to give you and easy and simple upgrade (only suitable for systems that don't have an external amplifier already)... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FRM695W/?coliid=I342MOLJ2H6IRI&colid=20KB9L9YIKMQR&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
You do need an additional BMW specific loom to go with that (**NOT the option on the Amazon link).

As for the Mr12volt box, I highly recommend this MMI box, and I've done a video on that install as well...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY4XAzUYiXk

There is a direct link in the video description (affiliate link, helps my channel a bit ).

 

[RockyFra]

Thank you both for the prompt answers.

@AnubisZed
The amplifier you reccomended needs a T cable to work but also the Mr12Volt box does, you think is gonna work correctly?

 

[AnubisZed]

Thank you both for the prompt answers.

@AnubisZed
The amplifier you reccomended needs a T cable to work but also the Mr12Volt box does, you think is gonna work correctly?

Yes the amplifier is connected via a T loom. The Mr12volt box is connected to the iDrive controller not the headunit, so no confliction there

 

[B21]

There's another high-ish end German company come on the scene with a design for E89 6 speaker systems..chap in Z4 Scotland did this one, very pleased with the results..some example prices for the E89 were..

M6v3 Amp & BTA2 app module... ~£400
Front Comps. Musway CSB4.2C ~£170
Rear coxials Musway CSB42X ~£135
BMW T harness and wiring for e89 front subs ~£40
Boot Sub ESX 108Q ~£100

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/muswayuk

https://musway.de/english/dsp.html

 

[Silverstar]

Check out my thread, ignore the CarPlay bit since mine is connected to AUX and ignore about the speakers since they aren't plug and play but the amp install I did should interest you. Upgrading the speakers will make a big improvement but adding the amp will take it to whole another level. Well recommended.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=126024&hilit=audio

 

[RockyFra]

Thank you both for the prompt answers.

@AnubisZed
The amplifier you reccomended needs a T cable to work but also the Mr12Volt box does, you think is gonna work correctly?

Yes the amplifier is connected via a T loom. The Mr12volt box is connected to the iDrive controller not the headunit, so no confliction there

Copy, thanks!

There's another high-ish end German company come on the scene with a design for E89 6 speaker systems..chap in Z4 Scotland did this one, very pleased with the results..some example prices for the E89 were..

M6v3 Amp & BTA2 app module... ~£400
Front Comps. Musway CSB4.2C ~£170
Rear coxials Musway CSB42X ~£135
BMW T harness and wiring for e89 front subs ~£40
Boot Sub ESX 108Q ~£100

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/muswayuk

https://musway.de/english/dsp.html

This is maybe overkill for now, I'm going to spend no more than 800€.

Check out my thread, ignore the CarPlay bit since mine is connected to AUX and ignore about the speakers since they aren't plug and play but the amp install I did should interest you. Upgrading the speakers will make a big improvement but adding the amp will take it to whole another level. Well recommended.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=126024&hilit=audio

I'm willing to keep it simple, your system looks amazing btw.

This is what I have in mind right now:
Mr12Volt connected to an aftermarket microphone, or install the OEM microphone
Audison APBMW K4E and X4E

Next giant step will be:
2 more Audison APBMW K4E ~300€
2 Audison APBMW S8-2 ~300€
OEM subwoofer enclosure (65139242125) ~200€
OEM back trim panel to fit subs (51469171844) ~250€
OEM back speaker cover (51469147547) ~50€
OEM front panel speaker mount (65139206404) ~70€
Some multichannel amplifier that supports Logic 7 signal ~600€

 

[B21]

To get all that for 800 euros is impressive…

FWIW it’s a waste of time spending too much on the two rear 100mm speakers..they are hardly used and the seats effectively smother them, rendering any high frequencies inaudible…

Conversely a decent 10mm wide range Co-axial tweetered or seperate tweeter 100mm on the dash with the right DSP amp makes a world of difference..

Also IMHO no matter what you do with the factory sub location and high end upgrades with a big amp you never really get any good bass out of them..

Again conversely spending good money on the 6/6.5 woofers in the footwells yields great results…

 

[RockyFra]

To get all that for 800 euros is impressive…

FWIW it’s a waste of time spending too much on the two rear 100mm speakers..they are hardly used and the seats effectively smother them, rendering any high frequencies inaudible…

Conversely a decent 10mm wide range Co-axial tweetered or seperate tweeter 100mm on the dash with the right DSP amp makes a world of difference..

Also IMHO no matter what you do with the factory sub location and high end upgrades with a big amp you never really get any good bass out of them..

Again conversely spending good money on the 6/6.5 woofers in the footwells yields great results…

800 euros for the first step

P.s.

 

[B21]

The OE bmw subwoofers are crap…you’ll need to get some Audison/Eton/Audiotec Fischer ones with lots of amplification to make something happen..my last implementation had two Audison subs for the OE enclosures with 250 watts rms driving them..even then it was so so..

 

[RockyFra]

The OE bmw subwoofers are crap…you’ll need to get some Audison/Eton/Audiotec Fischer ones with lots of amplification to make something happen..my last implementation had two Audison subs for the OE enclosures with 250 watts rms driving them..even then it was so so..

That's my idea too, I will make slow but steady upgrades.

 

[B21]

The OE bmw subwoofers are crap…you’ll need to get some Audison/Eton/Audiotec Fischer ones with lots of amplification to make something happen..my last implementation had two Audison subs for the OE enclosures with 250 watts rms driving them..even then it was so so..

That's my idea too, I will make slow but steady upgrades.

Understood….FWIW changing the subs takes more time than changing all the other speakers put together ..and then some..

When I sold my 20i MSport with Audison subs the new owner wasn’t willing to pay for the extended audio…in the end the effort of pulling them out and putting the OE ones back was just too much effort..so I left them there..

Enjoy twiddling..

 

[Silverstar]

I'm willing to keep it simple, your system looks amazing btw.

This is what I have in mind right now:
Mr12Volt connected to an aftermarket microphone, or install the OEM microphone
Audison APBMW K4E and X4E

Next giant step will be:
2 more Audison APBMW K4E ~300€
2 Audison APBMW S8-2 ~300€
OEM subwoofer enclosure (65139242125) ~200€
OEM back trim panel to fit subs (51469171844) ~250€
OEM back speaker cover (51469147547) ~50€
OEM front panel speaker mount (65139206404) ~70€
Some multichannel amplifier that supports Logic 7 signal ~600€

Thanks for the compliment. If you ever go down this route and need the OEM subwoofer enclosures, I have a pair which I was going to use for my install but ended up not using them.

A couple of differences with respect to what B21 has said. After adding the amp I found I got noticeably more volume from the rear side speakers and can actually hear them, I spent very little on all my speakers mind. B21 is right regarding high frequencies but this doesn’t matter as you really want your high frequencies coming from in front of your ears, from the door mirror tweeters.

Regarding the subs the install i have as per my thread with the Kicker subs in the factory location has made a huge difference and the bass it produces is deep and tight. Anyone that has heard my system have been very impressed by the amount of bass it produces.

As B21 points out though installing subs in that location is a massive undertaking and very time consuming. Another alternative is to put a down firing sub in the boot something like the kicker 10” down firing sub box but this will only work if you have a pass through door in the bulkhead which you would either leave open or replace with a grill to allow the sound through.

One other aspect that I found to have made a huge difference to the sound was the replacement Hertz woofers in the kick panels, don’t overlook them as they made a massive difference.

 

[RockyFra]

I'm willing to keep it simple, your system looks amazing btw.

This is what I have in mind right now:
Mr12Volt connected to an aftermarket microphone, or install the OEM microphone
Audison APBMW K4E and X4E

Next giant step will be:
2 more Audison APBMW K4E ~300€
2 Audison APBMW S8-2 ~300€
OEM subwoofer enclosure (65139242125) ~200€
OEM back trim panel to fit subs (51469171844) ~250€
OEM back speaker cover (51469147547) ~50€
OEM front panel speaker mount (65139206404) ~70€
Some multichannel amplifier that supports Logic 7 signal ~600€

Thanks for the compliment. If you ever go down this route and need the OEM subwoofer enclosures, I have a pair which I was going to use for my install but ended up not using them.

A couple of differences with respect to what B21 has said. After adding the amp I found I got noticeably more volume from the rear side speakers and can actually hear them, I spent very little on all my speakers mind. B21 is right regarding high frequencies but this doesn’t matter as you really want your high frequencies coming from in front of your ears, from the door mirror tweeters.

Regarding the subs the install i have as per my thread with the Kicker subs in the factory location has made a huge difference and the bass it produces is deep and tight. Anyone that has heard my system have been very impressed by the amount of bass it produces.

As B21 points out though installing subs in that location is a massive undertaking and very time consuming. Another alternative is to put a down firing sub in the boot something like the kicker 10” down firing sub box but this will only work if you have a pass through door in the bulkhead which you would either leave open or replace with a grill to allow the sound through.

One other aspect that I found to have made a huge difference to the sound was the replacement Hertz woofers in the kick panels, don’t overlook them as they made a massive difference.

Thanks for the advice about the subwoofers, the thing is that I want an OEM looking car, with all the mods hidden and the best way is to stick with the original speaker placement.

What are the specs for the footwell woofer? Can it be driven by the Vibe p&p Amp?

p.s. How much for those sub enclosures?

 

[Silverstar]

Thanks for the advice about the subwoofers, the thing is that I want an OEM looking car, with all the mods hidden and the best way is to stick with the original speaker placement.

What are the specs for the footwell woofer? Can it be driven by the Vibe p&p Amp?

p.s. How much for those sub enclosures?

Yep know what you mean about keeping it looking OEM, hence why I placed mine where I did now just need to find some grills to finish it off.

For specs check the link for the Hertz woofers, they aren't plug and play but totally worth it they just sound fabulous and a huge upgrade to the standard factory items:

https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-woofers-mille-pro-mp165-3/

The JBL amp I installed powers all the speakers, two mids rear, two mids plus tweeters in the doors and the footwell woofers so I would imagine you will be able to do the same with the Vibe amp.

For the BMW sub enclosures I just need what I paid for them which is around 80€ for the pair I think, I can include shipping if you are in Spain but if not it will be on top. If I remember correctly they came to me with the factory subs in place which they should still be there unless I ripped one out (can't remember!).

 

[movan]

Silverstar I'm thinking of doing my woofer replacement, since I currently have my interior apart for a couple different projects. Have you seen/do you have any instructions for removing the kickpanel? Did you make a new frame to house your new woofer in the existing kickpanel enclosure? Thanks!

 

[Silverstar]

Silverstar I'm thinking of doing my woofer replacement, since I currently have my interior apart for a couple different projects. Have you seen/do you have any instructions for removing the kickpanel? Did you make a new frame to house your new woofer in the existing kickpanel enclosure? Thanks!

I can't remember exactly how I removed the kick panel trims now but I think it's a combination of one or two screws and clips. You will probably have to remove some other trim first before you can remove the kick panels such as the door seal rubbers the panels under the dash / glove box etc.

With regards to fitting the new woofers, I removed the old woofers and basically cut them out of the frame which I then used as adaptors to mount the new woofers to.

 

[AnubisZed]

Silverstar I'm thinking of doing my woofer replacement, since I currently have my interior apart for a couple different projects. Have you seen/do you have any instructions for removing the kickpanel? Did you make a new frame to house your new woofer in the existing kickpanel enclosure? Thanks!

Mil,
Drivers side;
Remove screw for Hood (Bonnet) release handle, and remove handle.
Remove second screw behind handle.
Remove three screws in the kick panel above drivers feet. And remove panel, watch out for any electrical connections.
Pull off the robber door seal in affected area.
If you've got floor mats then you'll need to move these.
You'll now have a fun time removing the woofer panel.

Passenger side;
Remove the three screws above the passengers feet and remove the panel, watch out for additional connections here.
Remove door seal.
Remove mat.
Struggle getting woofer panel out.

Have fun

 

[movan]

Silverstar: Great idea to sacrifice the current woofers for its frame to use with the new speakers!

David: Thanks so much (as always) for the step-by-step instructions! I've already dropped the two under-dash kick panels currently as part of my front parking sensors and interior ambient FO/LED projects, which is why I thought it a good time to try tackling this woofer project while I'm at it! I never could hear those two speakers (in fact didn't even know they were there until researching the Android head unit project last year), and leaned my head into the footwell yesterday to hear how "muted" it sounds. I'm hoping that I'll soon be able to notice the sound improvement (as others have stated) with this change.