Hydraulic steering conversion - N52-engined Z4 models
- Thread starter Hydro_Z4
- Start date
Im trying something different before i go all in on the hydro-swap.
To my understanding the steering column (with the EPS-motor) is still left with this swap, it just gets unplugged. So im just unplugging the motor, to see how the car steers without ANY power steering, like a Lotus Elise..
So my question is, besides being very heavy at low speeds, what downsides does this have? Does the E46 steering rack have any other advantages besides being hydro?
To my understanding the steering column (with the EPS-motor) is still left with this swap, it just gets unplugged. So im just unplugging the motor, to see how the car steers without ANY power steering, like a Lotus Elise..
So my question is, besides being very heavy at low speeds, what downsides does this have? Does the E46 steering rack have any other advantages besides being hydro?raymond.harper
Senior member
Usually, the motor is removed to prevent drag on the steering. With an Elise, there is not a heavy six-pot engine straddling the front wheels so steering will be light. With the Z4 without power steering, roundabouts are a nightmare.
Im thinking what if you put an on/off switch on the cable to the EPS-motor? So fun roads=EPS off, town and parking=EPS on...
I did drive with the EPS disabled today and it was heavy but not crazy, above 10mph...
The drag of the inactive motor is a factor for sure, perhapse this removes some steering feel.
I did drive with the EPS disabled today and it was heavy but not crazy, above 10mph...
The drag of the inactive motor is a factor for sure, perhapse this removes some steering feel.
Calps said:
The danger with that is the slightly wandering sensation you can get from the EPS system would cut in and out intermittently. I can also imagine scenarios where, even at lower speeds, I wouldn’t want PAS to come into play.
Manual control would be brilliant on the sports button in my mind: off in Sport, on in Normal
I have tested the T-80 Torx today using a left over yoke from a previous intermediate shaft build.
I did not test with a press, which will be the preferred method, but instead with a decent vice. Whilst holding pressure on the vice handle I whacked the vice jaw with a hammer.
The T-80 torx is stronger than the metal used for the yoke and did not damage the torx. So with suitable force the torx will work.
You will need to support the yoke so it doesn't deform when compressed but there is a flat on the insides so a strong piece of metal can be used.
This is the result but please note I did not clean out the previous indents used to hold the previous bearings in. You can see the difference in metal where I have stopped. Left is with using the T-80, right is the other side to show how it was before:
I did not test with a press, which will be the preferred method, but instead with a decent vice. Whilst holding pressure on the vice handle I whacked the vice jaw with a hammer.
The T-80 torx is stronger than the metal used for the yoke and did not damage the torx. So with suitable force the torx will work.
You will need to support the yoke so it doesn't deform when compressed but there is a flat on the insides so a strong piece of metal can be used.
This is the result but please note I did not clean out the previous indents used to hold the previous bearings in. You can see the difference in metal where I have stopped. Left is with using the T-80, right is the other side to show how it was before:
Attleborough, Norfolk
The difference in steering feel between normal and sport is not really that much IMHO.Barty said:Manual control would be brilliant on the sports button in my mind: off in Sport, on in Normal
But without the EPS connected, surely you would still get the change to the throttle response (and in an auto, holding the gears longer), so you'd just lose the steering feel.
enuff_zed said:The difference in steering feel between normal and sport is not really that much IMHO.Barty said:Manual control would be brilliant on the sports button in my mind: off in Sport, on in Normal
But without the EPS connected, surely you would still get the change to the throttle response (and in an auto, holding the gears longer), so you'd just lose the steering feel.
I was referring to switching the EPAS system on and off altogether depending on sport or normal mode, rather than the current change which -I totally agree- is very minimal.
r3vmatch said:
Hydro_Z4 said:
Hello folks, were you able to see if there's a way to keep the sport mode as the M, without having to reinstall the steering ECU? I think it could be done by comparing the files from someone who has an M and would like to share the .trc files from NCS. I wouldn't mind doing it as I feel confortable with NCSExpert and NCS dummy, but I'd need to source the files...
Limonge said:
Hi guys, hoping to get a reply here, I’m currently in the process of converting my e85 to hydraulic steering, just need the intermediate shaft converting.
Usel I can’t seem to PM you, any chance you can get in contact please? As I’ve been recommended you several times for the conversion.
Hey everyone! Just ordered all of the parts for my z4 hydraulic conversion for the n52 engine. As I’ve been looking ahead for the install, I’m curious if the steering rack outer tie rods need to be replaced? I purchased a yellow tag rack. If so, what is the part number or specs for the tie rods? Thanks for the help!
Hey everyone, I’m in the process of doing the EPS to hydraulic conversion on my 2008 z4 3.0si and have an issue with the intermediate shaft. I purchased a z4m intermediate shaft and yellow tag rack. When I connect the intermediate shaft, each end doesn’t fully seat into the spline part of the rack and steering shaft. It’s like 80% in. Is there any adjustments that can be made to close the distance by about 1cm?