Southwestz4
Member
I have just looked at the bushes ...I have just polybushed them :headbang:
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Hydraulic steering conversion - N52-engined Z4 models
- Thread starter Hydro_Z4
- Start date
Frustratingly my order for the intermediate shaft thing has been cancelled as they can't get stock anymore, so my conversion is in jeapordy! I have 2 places that will sell me the shaft but only with the column at £750 which is painful. Argh!
It is unless you're handy with the tools 
Thankfully a very helpful member on here is making me one!
Thankfully a very helpful member on here is making me one!
Hah yes most likely
The temptation to try this hasn't yet surpassed my actually ability to do it.. but it's getting close :driving: :rofl:
Usel
Senior member
A big thanks to Southwestz4 for showing the way to make the Z4M intermediate shaft.
A couple of tips that others may find useful.
The UJ joint can be cut through diagonally with an angle grinder so you don't damage the yoke or the knuckles. You need a steady hand
Also the staking tool is very expensive at £450 and like Southwestz4 a punch was used. However I think it might be possible to use a T80 torx bit and a press. I will order a torx T80 to see if this is possible.
Here are pictures of a T70 torx but even though it looks like it may work it won't:
A couple of tips that others may find useful.
The UJ joint can be cut through diagonally with an angle grinder so you don't damage the yoke or the knuckles. You need a steady hand
Also the staking tool is very expensive at £450 and like Southwestz4 a punch was used. However I think it might be possible to use a T80 torx bit and a press. I will order a torx T80 to see if this is possible.
Here are pictures of a T70 torx but even though it looks like it may work it won't:
Southwestz4
Member
Usel said:A big thanks to Southwestz4 for showing the way to make the Z4M intermediate shaft.
A couple of tips that others may find useful.
The UJ joint can be cut through diagonally with an angle grinder so you don't damage the yoke or the knuckles. You need a steady hand
Also the staking tool is very expensive at £450 and like Southwestz4 a punch was used. However I think it might be possible to use a T80 torx bit and a press. I will order a torx T80 to see if this is possible.
Here are pictures of a T70 torx but even though it looks like it may work it won't:
20230705_085721.jpg
20230705_085712.jpg
20230705_085705.jpg
Southwestz4
Member
I will be interested to see how the t80 works as a stake tool 
Southwestz4
Member
Ok so a quick update for those who are interested.
I have just changed my pump from a Lf20 to a LF30 ( inc new high pressure hose)....tbh it doesn't feel much different, possibly a little lighter but not by much. It is certainly not super light like it has been reported on other forums but that was on different models of car .
I don't know the history of my rack as it was a used one , maybe it would be worth getting it reconditioned....watch this space
I will give it a good run tomorrow to make sure all the air is out of the system.
I have just changed my pump from a Lf20 to a LF30 ( inc new high pressure hose)....tbh it doesn't feel much different, possibly a little lighter but not by much. It is certainly not super light like it has been reported on other forums but that was on different models of car .
I don't know the history of my rack as it was a used one , maybe it would be worth getting it reconditioned....watch this space
I will give it a good run tomorrow to make sure all the air is out of the system.
Usel
Senior member
Thanks Usel! Awesome information on the motor electronics. I figured this might be possible but glad someone went through and tried it.
For N52 / LF-30 pump, did everyone just source their mounting bracket from a used pump? I guess the compatible bracket was offered on the E90 w/N52 and it seems that if you buy the LUK LF30 it doesn't come with any mounting bracket.
For N52 / LF-30 pump, did everyone just source their mounting bracket from a used pump? I guess the compatible bracket was offered on the E90 w/N52 and it seems that if you buy the LUK LF30 it doesn't come with any mounting bracket.
It seems likely there should be software setting to retain Sport mode.
The Z4M with factory hydraulic steering has Sport mode.
But retaining the motor electronics should do the trick as well.
The front and rear brackets don't have a partnumber so needs to be sourced from a used pump.
The Z4M with factory hydraulic steering has Sport mode.
But retaining the motor electronics should do the trick as well.
The front and rear brackets don't have a partnumber so needs to be sourced from a used pump.
