Hunter Alignment before and after!
- Thread starter MefiEcosse
- Start date
andysat said:
Yep! Should feel loads better apparently but feels harsher into corners now!
Mine was miles out just like yours. Feels much more stable on the road now even on the run flats. However, it still twitches slightly at times.
That's a crap alignment, how much were you charged as they didn't change that much?
- Front camber is untouched and would benefit from being increased to maximum negative on both sides.
- Front toe needed a tweak but you want something like 0.04 on both sides, they've got twice as much on the right as the left.
- Rear toe is better matched, personally I prefer more like 0.04 each side but what you have is alright.
- Rear camber would benefit the most from a major adjustment. They only adjusted the right to try and match the left. In fact the cat would drive better if they matched the left to the right. In other words give it closer to 1 degree of negative camber not 2. Your setup will understeer more.
- Front camber is untouched and would benefit from being increased to maximum negative on both sides.
- Front toe needed a tweak but you want something like 0.04 on both sides, they've got twice as much on the right as the left.
- Rear toe is better matched, personally I prefer more like 0.04 each side but what you have is alright.
- Rear camber would benefit the most from a major adjustment. They only adjusted the right to try and match the left. In fact the cat would drive better if they matched the left to the right. In other words give it closer to 1 degree of negative camber not 2. Your setup will understeer more.
Steve84N said:
2nd this,Rich.....looking at the setup,they have created more understeer, which may be why it may feel like it skips a bit across the road now as to before! Or the imbalence.
As said,get them to take it to 0.04 on both sides,for Front toe......then get the Rear camber to around -1.5/-2, and same on both sides,there shouldn't be any or much difference from side to side...settings ideally same.
Had the issue years ago on my 3.0,had to get it re done elsewhere,which improved it 100%.
Always had faith in the Hunter system though,but it does depend on how they set it up.
I would be asking for my money back and going elsewhere.
Where did you take it to?
Strictly speaking they were 'right' to give you more rear negative camber as BMW state almost 3 degrees! However, the M runs closer to 1 and is all the better for it. You won't suddenly have an animal that wants to swap ends but it will be nicer in the corners with the added bonus of less inside tyre wear.
not really sure what grounds you've got to ask for your money back... all the toe settings were in red, now they're green. and the rear camber that can be adjusted, is also now in green?
unless the OP asked for specific settings which seems unlikely given the comment, they've just put it back to manufacturers recommendations, which probably errs towards the side of understeer.
unless the OP asked for specific settings which seems unlikely given the comment, they've just put it back to manufacturers recommendations, which probably errs towards the side of understeer.
HAve to concur that it's not the best!
More camber than std on the front is good, BUT the rears are unbalanced which could catch you out. Looks like the lower rear outer bush could be worn, preventing them getting it in? Mine was like that until I replaced the bushes.
Mike
More camber than std on the front is good, BUT the rears are unbalanced which could catch you out. Looks like the lower rear outer bush could be worn, preventing them getting it in? Mine was like that until I replaced the bushes.
Mike
Thanks folks, lots of varying opinions.
I think I will start with going back and discuss the the issues.
Now that I've done the research I perhaps should have done before going I do feel they've only done half a job.
There were no pre checks done, I wasn't told before they started that they couldn't adjust front camber, only told this yesterday when I went back for the print outs that they initially didn't give me.
I now have a bit more knowledge so I can go and talk to them about my concerns, hopefully they can be addressed but i also feel if they can't complete the job properly after convincing me I would be getter going to them than somewhere else that was slightly cheaper I will look for a refund!
Thanks for for the very useful info!
I think I will start with going back and discuss the the issues.
Now that I've done the research I perhaps should have done before going I do feel they've only done half a job.
There were no pre checks done, I wasn't told before they started that they couldn't adjust front camber, only told this yesterday when I went back for the print outs that they initially didn't give me.
I now have a bit more knowledge so I can go and talk to them about my concerns, hopefully they can be addressed but i also feel if they can't complete the job properly after convincing me I would be getter going to them than somewhere else that was slightly cheaper I will look for a refund!
Thanks for for the very useful info!
Buckz said:Here's what my z4c got huntered to..
£90
Buckz said:Here's what my z4c got huntered to..
Certainly looks mor balanced.
How was it before being done.
£90 is what you normally pay for all four adjustments but they've only done three (sort of)...
If a garage tells you that it's not possible to adjust front camber on a Z4 it's a sure fire sign they don't have a good depth of knowledge. You need to remove the camber pins to be able to slide the top mounts but they come out with a 4mm allen key in 30 seconds...
Apart from a lack of attention to detail they have moved it closer to factory spec. You will have to ask for your own settings and they may or may not accommodate this. When I tried my local KwikFit for a quick fix on a front toe problem they didn't know how to do anything other than 'make it go green' based on the factory settings.
Ask for the following if you want an improvement in handling:
- Max front camber both sides matched to the lowest possible. For example if one goes to 1.5 and the other only goes to 1.3 get both at 1.3.
- Front toe to 0.04 both sides. You could go less at say 0.02 each side which is closer to parallel.
- Rear toe to 0.06 or thereabouts both sides.
- Rear camber to 1.5 degrees at most and ideally more like 1.1-1.3. You may find the stock adjustment doesn't go that low if the bushes are worn so just take the same approach as the front but aim for minimum rather than maximum camber.
Where you see only very small differences in the before and after measurement it's likely they didn't touch it but moving the car to do the bits they did adjust gave the small change in the after figures. This applies to the front camber both sides, front left toe and rear left camber. That means they loosened a grand total of 8 bolts/nuts for £90. It seems like they took the lazy approach to aligning it where if an adjustment is already fairly close they didn't bother tweaking it.
The other thing just to confuse you if you weren't aware is minutes and seconds versus degrees. For example 2o 24 for the rear left camber is 2.4 degrees. There's 60 seconds in each minute so 24/60 is 0.4 degrees. The numbers I mention above are in degrees so you're aiming for rear camber that reads something like 1o 15.
PS: Buckz, although your measurements are done precisely you may want to at least reduce rear camber as you have 2.85 degrees! It's what BMW state but it's not great for sharper handling and less tyre wear.
If a garage tells you that it's not possible to adjust front camber on a Z4 it's a sure fire sign they don't have a good depth of knowledge. You need to remove the camber pins to be able to slide the top mounts but they come out with a 4mm allen key in 30 seconds...
Apart from a lack of attention to detail they have moved it closer to factory spec. You will have to ask for your own settings and they may or may not accommodate this. When I tried my local KwikFit for a quick fix on a front toe problem they didn't know how to do anything other than 'make it go green' based on the factory settings.
Ask for the following if you want an improvement in handling:
- Max front camber both sides matched to the lowest possible. For example if one goes to 1.5 and the other only goes to 1.3 get both at 1.3.
- Front toe to 0.04 both sides. You could go less at say 0.02 each side which is closer to parallel.
- Rear toe to 0.06 or thereabouts both sides.
- Rear camber to 1.5 degrees at most and ideally more like 1.1-1.3. You may find the stock adjustment doesn't go that low if the bushes are worn so just take the same approach as the front but aim for minimum rather than maximum camber.
Where you see only very small differences in the before and after measurement it's likely they didn't touch it but moving the car to do the bits they did adjust gave the small change in the after figures. This applies to the front camber both sides, front left toe and rear left camber. That means they loosened a grand total of 8 bolts/nuts for £90. It seems like they took the lazy approach to aligning it where if an adjustment is already fairly close they didn't bother tweaking it.
The other thing just to confuse you if you weren't aware is minutes and seconds versus degrees. For example 2o 24 for the rear left camber is 2.4 degrees. There's 60 seconds in each minute so 24/60 is 0.4 degrees. The numbers I mention above are in degrees so you're aiming for rear camber that reads something like 1o 15.
PS: Buckz, although your measurements are done precisely you may want to at least reduce rear camber as you have 2.85 degrees! It's what BMW state but it's not great for sharper handling and less tyre wear.