How to Safely Clay Your Zed Guide - from Elite, again

PawnSacrifice

Veteran
 South Oxfordshire
This is a guide to claying, again taken from elsewhere - hopefully I've removed all of the Porsche references! This is a lot more meticulous than I think I would be. Hopefully will be of help to some of you starting out. One thing I would say, it takes a lot less time than you'd think!
(and other products are available!)

We will be ultimately talking about paintwork contamination and how to remove this from your precious Zed.

The majority of paintwork contamination consists of tiny metallic particles. These particles normally come from the trains (wheels & brakes) as well as normal cars. The tiny bare metal particles are extremely hot and normally found in the air nearer the train tracks. They are basically exposed to the air during the braking of cars and train. Slowly but surely they manage to find their way imbedding themselves into the paintwork of our cars. This is often the case on brand spanking new cars before they even reach the dealership!

The above is a more severe form of paintwork contamination but extremely common.

Tree sap is also a common problem along with general industrial pollution.

On darker vehicles it is normally more difficult to spot the tiny bare metal filings but you can definately feel them. On lighter cars you can often see these particles and are normally brown. They are brown because they have basically oxidized and rusted into your paintwork.

By now you may be worrying that your brand new Z4 is actually slowly rotting away. Well, don’t worry guys, there is a cure as to getting your car back to feeling silky smooth again.

We need to basically perform a “clay bar treatment”.

Ultimately it is possible to compound your cars paintwork to remove such impurities but this is the incorrect procedure. Compounding will also remove unnecessary clearcoat thus “cutting” into your paintwork.

The best solution is a clay bar which will safely and effectively remove rail dust and industrial fallout by "pulling" it off the surface.

It also does not “cut” into your paintwork and will not create any damage if used correctly.

http://www.elitedetailer.com stock a clay bar called Zaino Z-18 Clay System and is pictured below:
z-18.jpg

In addition to the Z-18 Clay Bar you need to use a lubricant. In this case we will be using Meguiars Last Touch as seen here:
Lasttouch_0000001142.jpg

You will also need to pour the Last Touch into an empty spray bottle, i.e Meguiars Last Touch Bottle (excluding Spray Head) and Standard Spray Head.

HOW TO USE THE CLAY BAR
Regardless of which mild clay bar you decide to use, it is imperative to use on a clean surface straight after washing your car. If there are any dirt deposits on your car then it is highly likely that you will scratch your paintwork while performing this procedure.

1. To begin with you need to pull need the clay bar to get it nice and soft. Once you have done this, we are then ready to begin.
2. Spray the Lubricant solution onto the panel quite liberally. It is important to use enough lubricant as it is quite possible to lightly scratch the surface if under lubricated.
3. Now with your clay bar, gentley rub onto the surface in back and forth motions. Work in 1ft squares and take your time. Keep gliding the claybar across the wet surface until you can feel it is all nice and smooth. This is illustrated below:
IMG_6002.jpg

4. Now with a clean Elite Detailer Ultimate Microfibre Towel wipe the surface.
5. Now “re-need” by refolding and pulling to create a clean side of the clay bar ready for the next section and repeat step “3” on the next part of the panel. This can been seen again below:
IMG_7681.jpg

It is important to to not reuse the clay bar once it has been soiled and I prefer to throw them away. When it is only slightly soiled it can be used to great effect on cleaning up wheels.

Here is a picture of a clay bar which has been soiled. The example shows the level of dirt which has come off a 2004 996 GT3 in Guards Red:
GT3RED5.jpg

Performing this process will not only make your car feel a lot smoother but in many cases enhance the appearance.
The clay bar is great for use on glass as well as the paintwork, especially in the corners of the windscreens where so often there is a build of dirt.
You can also use it to remove imbedded dead flies from the front of your vehicle including the wing mirrors as shown below:
IMG_5969-1.jpg

With regards to how often do you need to clay, well in most case twice a year is more than adequate.

Although this process is recommended on all cars of all ages, it is even a more worthwhile procedure for 911's which are slightly older as well as ungaraged vehicles.

Below is a simple diagram I have knocked up to illustrate what claying can do for your vehicle. Hopefully you will get the general gist of it.

CLayingDiagram.jpg

Here is a list of the products which can be used for the above process:
A Beginners Clay Bar Kit
Zaino Z-18 Clay System
Meguiars Last Touch
Meguiars Last Touch Bottle (exc. Spray Head))
Standard Spray Head
Elite Detailer Ultimate Microfibre Towel

Elite Detailer Online Car Care Products http://www.elitedetailer.com
 
I had issues claying glass on an older car, somehow a few particles had got left on the glass even after cleaning, and dragged around, scratching the glass.

Of course, this can easily happen on bodywork, but somehow you would notice it. So just to those thinking of claying glass, give it a REALLY good clean and then clean it again, imho, before getting clay on it! (maybe I pulled in dirt from an edge seal?!)

Dave
 
Dave, thanks for that - always helps to see how these things work in the real world! Out of interest, did you use the same lubricant on the glass as on the paintwork? When finished did it make much difference? (scratches aside!)
 
PawnSacrifice said:
Dave, thanks for that - always helps to see how these things work in the real world! Out of interest, did you use the same lubricant on the glass as on the paintwork? When finished did it make much difference? (scratches aside!)

I'm not sure really... I think when you clean your car often and generally look after it then there isn't much clay can do for say glass... as it's already pretty clean. However, if you come on to a car that is rarely clayed/polished there is lots to get with it!

Personally I think claying is great for bringing out a gloss to the car that is normally not there, not sure how, but it does, but I rarely get much muck on my clay at all... only from lower panels do I get any marks in it at all.

I guess I am lucky where I park etc as not much crap gets on the paint that isn't easily water soluble and so comes off with normal washing :)

So clay, not so good on glass unless you are 100% everything is really clean to start with (imho and experience!?), but great on general panels to bring up that gloss, and then followed with a quick polish of say AG SRP then a wax, wowzers :D

Dave
 
It makes the job easier aswell to brake the clay bar in half and then place in a container with hot water. This then softens the clay bar enough to use instead of kneeding. A hard clay bar will do more damage than good.
 
Mr Whippy said:
PawnSacrifice said:
Dave, thanks for that - always helps to see how these things work in the real world! Out of interest, did you use the same lubricant on the glass as on the paintwork? When finished did it make much difference? (scratches aside!)



Personally I think claying is great for bringing out a gloss to the car that is normally not there, not sure how, but it does, but I rarely get much muck on my clay at all... only from lower panels do I get any marks in it at all.

Dave

Agree claying a car deffo gives that wow factor to the finish once you have polished sealed and waxed as they say its the prep that counts not how much you spend on wax.

My clay bar never gets very soiled as i to keep my car in good order all the time thats why i can use my clay bar more than once unless i drop it :x
 
Mikey said:
It makes the job easier aswell to brake the clay bar in half and then place in a container with hot water. This then softens the clay bar enough to use instead of kneeding. A hard clay bar will do more damage than good.

Yes this works well especially in winter normally cut a bar in two pop in a cup of warm water then when i start the car i pop the second half in the cup so i can chop and change the halfs as i clay the car
 
A good guide, worth resurrecting. Going to have my first go at claying, mainly to get rid of dreadful fly splatter on the bottom front of the car :evil:
 
What clay and lube did you use?
To get the full benefits you need to spend some good time claying and it gives a cracking transformation when you se a good pre-wax cleanser and wax afterwards, you can really see and feel the difference.
 
Good post. The way to test whether a good claying is required is to stick your hand in a thin plastic bag and run your fingertips over the car surface. You will be amazed at how much cr@p you will feel embedded in. Do it again following a claying to feel exactly how much it removes.

I clay 3 times a year (though my work carpark is about 10ft from Cardiff Train Station so super high levels of brake debris contaminating my paintwork)
 
Flimper - i think it depends how bad/good the car was to start with.

Like you i was expecting some type of shine that was ungodly, biblical, and like the eye blinding final scene from Indiana Jones. My car didnt look much better than a good clean to me after i clayed it.

The way some people talk about claying you would think it makes your car look brand new. It doesnt, its just your old car but it feels smoother and is marginally more shiny.
 
I was expecting it to take some elbow grease when I was doing it, but it felt so easy to do. I did notice it was smooth afterwards but I was hoping it would get rid of some of the crap on front splitter but it just slid right over it :cry: I was using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, was probably doing it wrong...
 
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