How to replace soft top motor without removing roof.. DONE!

I've been wondering about who was the first person to come up with the idea of relocating the motor in the boot area. Whoever it was deserves a medal I would think. I've looked at postings as far back as the late 2000's when the problem was becoming apparent but would love to find the one that pointed the way forward.
Robert.
 
Roberltd2 said:
I've been wondering about who was the first person to come up with the idea of relocating the motor in the boot area. Whoever it was deserves a medal I would think. I've looked at postings as far back as the late 2000's when the problem was becoming apparent but would love to find the one that pointed the way forward.
Robert.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I first heard of the mod being done by a Dutch guy I think. I'm pretty sure there's a mention of him, buried in one of the relocation threads in this forum.
 
Hello i have read your information that you have put and I have problems with the motor is there any chance you could give me some details for the man in St. Helens so I could take it across to him, if you could get back to me as soon as possible that would be great
Thanks
Garth
 
Welcome to the forum Garth
Do an introduction in the newbies forum for a better response :thumbsup:

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Mike Ducklakeview is the member
Look in the forum section the market place and discount codes and forum services for TheZedshed



Garthbmw1234 said:
Hello i have read your information that you have put and I have problems with the motor is there any chance you could give me some details for the man in St. Helens so I could take it across to him, if you could get back to me as soon as possible that would be great
Thanks
Garth
Click to expand...
 
Hi, guys

I managed to get the motor in the trunk (my hands are super sore now, but anyway) and I guess i would need to get the motor a bath to hopefully make it run again.
I am afraid of removing it from the pump though. Will the pump leak if I get the motor out? Can I safely remove it from the pump without it leaking?

Thanks!
 
Just the weather for roof down motoring at the moment too. I've probably cycled the hood about 15 - 20 times since the refit and it's been fine although I have had a nagging doubt that it doesn't sit as flush into the recess as it used to. However, I recently read on another thread that all it needs is a slight push down to get it to "click" into place. Will try this out this weekend maybe.
Also been reading into roof care etc. Ended up buying BMW roof cleaner and BMW roof conditioner from Ocean BMW on ebay. I followed the instructions pretty much and it now looks a lot better and the water even beads off the roof to some extent - but not totally which, from what I've read is a good thing as the five(?) layers of roof material need to breathe
 
I had a go at tackling mine this weekend, but it was too hot in the boot so didn't get too far as I only managed about 30 minutes.
I took the shelf off and the side trim, then easily could reach in and peel off the tape and pull off the top case of the motor - it was very stiff but i think the hot weather helped loosen the sealant.
I then got my trust borescope and going through the boot I get up the camera so I could see the big cable tie that goes around the entire bottom case and the lines and cut this with a scapel. I also freed the lines from the clip holder at the front and back of the case. The lines are quite loose now and I can lift the motor quite far up now...

It was at this point I got too hot and stopped. I don't think I can pull out the motor as easily as mentioned in this post - feels like I might have to cut the other tie wrap. Do I need to cut the second small one just holding the lines together, or, do I need to move the lines around somehow? According to my borescope everything is free, but before I start on the job again I thought I'd check with those that have done it before.

I've not attempted to go in via the cabin behind the passenger seat - I'm hoping its almost free but I think I need to free the lines that go under the case somehow. Any tips and knacks would be much appreciated!
 
When I did mine some years ago I also cut the zip ties using an endoscope, broke the clip holding the case (en brute force) and lifted up the whole case into the boot - unopened. With the lines running under the case it’s unnecessary trouble to leave the bottom part of the case in the well. OP managed to free the lines without removing the lower case, though. OPs last image shows well how the lines run under the case.
 
Cheers guys, this has been a helpful thread.
I got mine free yesterday. Free'd off the bypass valve and hey presto, one working roof.

I took a bunch of photos so will write up my experiences and techniques to get mine out here, as mine slightly differed from some guides online. With a decent inspection camera this job was quite straightforward but its pretty tough on your hands!

Interestingly, my symptoms a while back was a dead motor, and obviously a dead roof. Since changing the battery, the motor started working again but the roof didn't move. I could see the hydraulic fluid level in the motor right away so ruled out a split hose and knew my best chances were to free off the valve.
Annoyingly I bought all the bits to do the roof in one weekend, including a new motor, which I now have to sell on.
 
Just finished unblocking the roof drain on the N/S tonight. I've noticed the sound of water sloshing around for a while now, optimistically thinking it might be the fuel in the petrol tank. Don't know if it's related to the roof motor relocation or not, fine sediment type of stuff getting disturbed & blocking the drain perhaps.
Unlike my old Eunos, I found that rodding the channel was impossible. From below, the curtain wire just seems to hit a dead end about half way up. I used compressed air in the end which seems to have done the trick but I suspect I may have to do this on a regular basis now as I can see that there seems to be some kind of a filter at the base of the "sink" which will get clogged up again with the same crud which I've just blown out of the way for now.
Haven't taken the time to chase up the relevent threads about this yet but thought it might be something to look out for after doing the motor relocation.
Cheers,
Robert.
 
Quick update,
I don't think that there is "some kind of a filter at the base of the "sink"". It seems to me that the drain hole is only wide enough to get something the diameter of a wire clothes hanger to unblock it (as I read on related threads). Didn't realise this till after I'd blown compressed upwards. I now know roughly where to poke around with the wire in future.
Again, hope this helps,
Robert.
 
I managed to unblock the driver's side drain using a wire from the top but have not been able to locate the hole on the passenger side as it seems to be blocked by the motor so I'm going to have a go from underneath on Saturday.
 
How far does the brass bypass plunger pin actually come out ? ive cleaned it, lubed it and it moves freely... still not convinced its out enough though ?

the roof still needs a good push to get it going..... it wont quiet take it all the way to the anchor finish it falls just short (Motor still runs) so that's not cutting out ?

it will however fully close with no help ?
Any ideas ?

Can the power supply be connected wrong way round ? not that i think it is ?
 
I've noticed when I press the brass pin in the collar around it goes in too..... does this collar sit flush with the block when pin pops back out ?
 
Hi Mike, i found you on ebay but for some reason couldnt send you a message. I joined here and i cant send you a pm and i need my roof sorting asap. Please can you get back to me to sort something out. Sorry everyone else, i couldnt find another way.
And im guessing you're the guy on ebay. 😁
 
I repaired my 2007 BMW Z4’s convertible top hydraulic unit by removing the entire convertible top, with the help of a great Youtube video. Others have posted that you can get to the motor by reaching it through the trunk. I tried reaching it that way and decided it was too difficult. When reinstalling the whole top, I realized that you should be able to access the pump by removing only the rear, aluminum “C-channel” that holds the rear of the top, and lifting up the rear window section. In the following video I show the procedure, although not every step (since my roof was already detached by that point).

I am pretty sure this procedure enables accessing the motor without removing the whole convertible top but I won't consider it definite until someone confirms it. Please post a comment on the Youtube page if you use this procedure successfully. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRwSJq64wBM
Full notes page:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1WVVYTX-9eB3lclY1Wr-SOijityt-nv8bkQokRfDBqAo/edit?usp=sharing
 
RROB said:
How far does the brass bypass plunger pin actually come out ?
Click to expand...
If you mean for the manual bypass activation, it looks like it rises 1/16th to 1/8th inch above the pump body. This is consistent with the dimensions of the lever that presses upon it, and that amount of travel works on my reassembled pump.
 
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