How to repair cracked 19s

S

soundboy10

Member
Hey all, hopefully upgrading from an old zed to a new one tomorrow. It has the 296 19" alloys as I far prefer these to any others. I have read on the forum they are the most prone to cracking. So I am just wondering what people do when they do crack? Can the be repaired or is a new one needed???

Thanks in advance.
 
Given the hammer they take, replacement is best (£450!). I just wouldn't trust a repair as they'll just crack somewhere else.
 
If you hear a wheel crack, it's already in pieces and you're in a ditch.

But seriously no you can't hear a wheel crack. You can hear the car beep as the tyre deflates tho!
 
If you can get your hand betwine the spokes. Run you hand around the inside edge. You should be able to feel a crack or a repair as a bump. Take latex gloves as they will be dirty behind there!!
 
Machine monkey said:
If you can get your hand betwine the spokes. Run you hand around the inside edge. You should be able to feel a crack or a repair as a bump. Take latex gloves as they will be dirty behind there!!
Click to expand...
Top tip mm! :thumbsup:
 
I know I have had the problem. Replica wheels so no doubt not the Same quality as BMW ones. Welded them up cracked again! So had another go welds ok but the wheel split in the middle of the welds. I am no expert with wheels but I know a bit about metal welded wheels are just not as good!!!
 
Actually this car comes with 12 month warranty, albeit not BMW warranty but still warranty, so could these be replaced on that, being a design fault?? And could this be the same for rear clusters with water in? Not sure how 3rd party warranty works. Could I still take to BMW and then they claim from the 3rd party warranty?? Or should BMW replace? It's a 2009 model, so a few year old now.
 
Hi..

From professional experience: A crack in a wheel, should 1st of all, be cut out and then welded, with premium graded welding rods..

The worst mistake in the world to make, is welding straight over a crack for example..
This will not resolve the primary issue - the crack. Simply, as the crack will, over time etc - crack the weld also..

Invariably, if a wheel has had a negative impact (from a pot-hole; kerb; speed bump etc), it may well have caused a flat-spot or buckle on the inner rim of the wheel also - thus adding to the issues of a crack also for example..

If your buying from a main dealer / car trader, ask if they have a facility to put the car on a ramp - so that you can carry out a visual inspection from underneath the car - when it's raised well off the ground for example. You can then put your mind at ease, with the (hopeful positive) knowledge that the car does not have any cracked wheels. If it does have cracked wheels however, that'd be something for the trader / dealer to put right, prior to any purchase..

Hope the above info' helps?
 
I have had loads of trouble with the 296s when i bought my 2010 e89 my advice is get some good replicas and get shot of the runflats they are expensive and a terrible ride compared to normal tyres
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with the 296s per se. I think they're possibly a weaker design than some. It's our uk roads and run flats that cause the problem.
 
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