How to Remove your Soft Top.....56k Beware

[Uxorious]

...which brings me to a question: How long do the convertible tops last on these vehicles? Mine looks great, but since half of the work would also be necessary to replace the top...

My 2003 Z4 had the top fail just over a year ago - water intrusion as you can guess.
Back then, I bit the bullet and paid the $1500-$2000 to have it repaired.
Guess what ... now 1 year later it happened again ... and while the part is still under warranty, it turns out it does not cover "water intrusion" so I'm on my own again.

I'm trying my insurance since this is clearly not a case of "normal wear and tear" (the fact that BMW has a technical bulletin about this issue tells you they also know its a problem).

FWIW, I got my insurance (State Farm, California) to cover it.
The original repair was still paid by me (didn't press them on it), but they covered the second repair.
From the repair shop I heard that they had another customer who got his insurance (Liberty Mutual I believe) to cover his first repair.

 

[Ewazix]

I thought my roof motor went yesterday, but it looks like I sorted it and the info may help someone else without changing the motor.

On pushing the button to drop the top it opened a fraction, then stopped but the motor kept running (and sounded strong) with a steady red light. It did close and lock shut OK. I tried several times during the journey with no joy. I got home and tried it was fine a couple of times then it failed again.
On checking the latches on the front of the roof frame and slots and rollers on the windscreen top rail they were very dry. Having soaked the latches, fittings and all the roof frame pivot points in lube it’s working fine now. Phewwww!

I also followed the excellent forum guide for cleaning the roof drain holes for good measure; fortunately they were clear so hopefully it was just latches sticking, this might be worth eliminating before attacking the roof motor.

 

[m44rrt]

What did you use to lube the latches and rollers as mine sticks a bit periodically?

 

[Ewazix]

What did you use to lube the latches and rollers as mine sticks a bit periodically?

I'm not sure what's recommended but I spayed some WD40, dried that out then used some light cycle oil. There is a roller/bar in the windscreen top rail which the latches lock in to, one of these was dusty and stuck. I actually think it was part of the mechanism in the front roof rail latches though as they fly in and out now.
I might be wrong but resisted using grease as that might collect dirt and grit over time. It was certaily a relief to find it wasn't the motor!

 

[Leon_in_uk]

please help, this guide is good but i am also stuck on the hoop, i cannot see the middle clamp thingy, and there werent any thread dangling like in your picture? like a piece of fabric? i have followed all steps and removed the weatherproof etc and screws just need to know how to remove the back, do i unplug the cables from there homes?

 

[jhibbs]

Shipkiller's advice is brilliant, follow it and you won't go wrong. Having done the job (twice) I'd like to add some more information that may save you time and money.

Firstly, use lots of thick tape around the lip of the hood after you have pulled out the rubber trim because the edge of the aluminium hoop that comes out next is sharp and strong and can take some fiddling to remove and put back later on.

Also protect the plastic on the roll bars with thick tape, something like duck tape the cotton meshed stuff. When I was manouvering my hood around the catches on the front edge of the hood scratched the roll bar covers.

I opted not to buy a new motor but recondition the rusty one: Yes you can even one like the one in Shipkiller's photos it's just a very simple permanent magnet DC motor.

I didn't take photo's sorry but here's what to do:

Undo the two allen screws that hold the motor and pump flange to the pump body, keep the plastic fluid bowl down otherwise when you undo the motor you'll lose the fluid. I strapped the pump to the side of the hood frame to stop it tipping over.

Once the motor is off remove the wires marking with a centre punch or something a side to remind you which terminal goes to which connector, once they're off they are identical so there's a 50/50 chance of getting it right on re-assembly.

Wire brush or dremmel all the rust off the outer body.

The end of the motor with the terminals on has to come off and is retained by the outer body has been peened over in 6 places. Use a small grinding wheel to grind off these lips. You can use a sharp chisel but be very careful you don't stab yourself as you will have to press hard. Grinding off is safest by far.

Once the end plate of the motor is not retained by the peening, use a screwdriver in the locating slots around the end to remove the metal end plate and nylon brush holder. WD40 will help here.

Once the end is off you can pull the rotor out as the little nylon pump drive just slips off. So you will no have an end plate, a plastic brush holder with a small circuit board on the top with a capacitor on it. If the capacitor has rusted and drops off, don't worry the motor will still run later. (The capacitor just gives the commutator an easier life) You will have the rotor and the outer body with permanent magnets inside.

The next bit is easy, use lots of WD40 rag and very fine sandpaper to clean everything. Important bits are the commutator of the rotor, clean this with fine sandpaper but don't go mad because you don't want to go down to the mica insulation between the commutator segments. Also it is highly likely the brushes in the nylon holder will be seized, lots of WD40 and easing will have them sliding in and out again.

Once all cleaned up assembly is the reverse, use a dab of grease on the bearings and end plat bushes.

To lock the end plate in place carefully peen over the edge of the outer body over the end plate.

The motor should spin freely. Check it works in both directions by connecting to a decent 12V source before re-attaching to the pump body, not forgetting the nylon pump drive on the end. A quick source of 12V is a battery charger as long as it has a decent output, 5A or so.

Re-attach the motor to the pump body with the 2 screws.

At this point I merrily spent half a day putting the hood back in the car to find it didn't work. The motor ran but no movement of the hood. I have been raising and lowering my hood by hand for some time and the pressure bypass valve in the pump body behind the Bowden Cable assembly had seized open.

Off with the hood again, rempove the black plastic cable / lever assembly, use a 5mm socket to turn the brass plunger and work it free. The plunger should spring out, mine was siezed in. A drop of light oil to lubricate the seal and check the action and back together.

Put the roof back in and away you go. My motor whizzes up and down faster than it ever has since I've owned the car.

I wouldn't have done the job without Shipkiller's notes so thank you.

 

[tom bell]

To try and avoid removing the roof when the motor goes duff would we be able to cut a hole through the back of the boot into the passenger side sump where the motor is fixed???

If this was possible it wd make maintaining the motor and cleaning the drain holes out without removing the roof. (We could always make a little door to cover the hole)

 

[brawnyblue]

I'm knee-deep in my pump replacement ... taking it VERY slow to make sure all is perfect. All is going well, except... I came across a significant tech issue regarding the pump and have contacted Hoerbiger (the pump manufacturer) in hopes of getting an answer. In short, the line identifiers stamped into the unit are reversed on the new unit. Pics are here: http://gallery.me.com/carscadden1#100121

As you can see, on the new pump it's 14/12 on left, 13/11 on right. The old pump has 11/13 on left and 14/12 on right (not quite visible, but the lines indicate it in this order).

SOOOOO ... trust the labeling on the lines and the old pump, or trust the markings on the new pump??? tough choice.

Unless someone has some wisdom as to a change in the pump design, I'll wait to hear from Hoerbiger. And when all else fails, I think I'll trust the old pump's line config, then cross my fingers...

Stuck on this right now, what did you end up doing?

 

[Anonymous]

use the version from old markings, trust me, Pipe the new pump up the same way as the old one was and you will be fine, The new markings are incorrect.

 

[uspsadriver]

A bit of help on removing the hoop, all screws out. Do the ends of the hoop have to be levered out ? How The hoop doesn't seem to want to come out of the clips, Suggestions please.... almost there.

 

[markiej]

Shipkiller,

What a fantastic piece of work!! Many thanks.

I've started the job on my 2007 Z4M, but I can't get the hood to release from the windscreen header rail. I've tried it with the engine running etc, checked the fuses (all OK), but the catches won't release. I just get the solid orange light on the roof control switch but nothing else. The windows aren't dropping as they usually would. I've release the hydraulics with the red clip as suggested, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.

Any thoughts?

I had taken the car into my local BMW dealer when the roof failed -in panic - open - in the rain! They got the roof shut for me so I could get the car home. Could the roof controller have been disabled in software as a safety measure?

I'd done as many of the other jobs as I could whilst I was waiting for the battery to charge up, so the car's partially in bits.

Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[BettyBmw03]

Shipkiller,

Thanks for this write up. Got the roof out of the car tonight. A ton of water dumped out of the drain where the motor sits when I went to move the top around. I wonder if rather than the drains being clogged if the motor actually blocks the drain hole? Because I checked my drain hole with an air gun and it was free of dirt or grime? Just a thought...

I can already see the motor was sitting in a lot of water, so I am going to fiddle with it tomorrow night.

 

[deej78]

What is the best way of checking the condition of the motor/motor housing when looking to buy a used z4? I am going to be looking around soon so it would be handy to know. Amazing work shipkiller thanks!

 

[BettyBmw03]

What is the best way of checking the condition of the motor/motor housing when looking to buy a used z4? I am going to be looking around soon so it would be handy to know. Amazing work shipkiller thanks!

I think the best way is to listen for motor noise and delayed response time. But unfortunately these things don't always show up. Several members motors have just quit working without notice,....me included.

The best thing to do is to look at a newer Z4 like a 2006 and above. They fixed this problem by then....But if you find a great deal on an earlier model the work isn't bad, just time consuming.

 

[srhutch]

What is the best way of checking the condition of the motor/motor housing when looking to buy a used z4? I am going to be looking around soon so it would be handy to know. Amazing work shipkiller thanks!

I think the best way is to listen for motor noise and delayed response time. But unfortunately these things don't always show up. Several members motors have just quit working without notice,....me included.

The best thing to do is to look at a newer Z4 like a 2006 and above. They fixed this problem by then....But if you find a great deal on an earlier model the work isn't bad, just time consuming.

Face lift cars still suffer from this issue, buying face lift is no guarantee that the motor will not fail due to water ingress.

 

[BettyBmw03]

Problems, problems, problems.....

I was able to get the roof w/new motor installed today. I attempted to lower the roof AND>>>>>

The windows went down as needed
The latch released from the windshield
I can hear the new motor turning as should
AND NOTHING!!!!!!

I checked the trunk switch, the tray table, the bowden cable....I am stuck and NEED HELP

The bowden cable seems to working properly. Bc when engaged the roof opens smoothly and when in non bypass position the roof will open 1/4 of the way and you meet resistance.

I am by far open to suggestions.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

[BettyBmw03]

Anybody???

 

[fixit man]

Anybody???

Hi, don't know what to say it should work. was it a new hydro-motor ?
electrically it's working but the hydraulic side isn't so either loads of air in the system, it's leaking , the bypass is stuck open, pipes on wrong or the hydraulic pump is a dud ??? :?

 

[Rasalon]

Hi all, I need detils on how to get the hoop out. I can see how one could from the trunk lever the hoop on the pasenger side out of it's bracket but then what? were do you pull from or push? where do you stand to do so? Please be VERY specific. :headbang:

 

[Anonymous]

Now you can see the wiring harness. Both sides.

The drivers side has two cables. One cable is bifurcated (two connectors) for a total of three connectors. The passengers side has just one cable and connector.

9. Follow the cables that lead FROM the soft top and disconnect those connectors. Again, three on the drivers side, one on the passengers side.



The connectors are keyed so they only fit with their proper mates. You can't screw this up when you reconnect.... :roll:

Oh yes you can.
some of the connectors will fit to the wrong mate regardless ......and you will blow fuses.
Take note of them and mark them before you disconnect.
I read this advice and so took no notice of them, and so have other people too..