How to properly test the relay in the gm5 module?

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/212/1/relay_ep2_ep1_e-820457.pdf
 

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The relay schematic shows what to test - not how to test it while it is installed on the GM5 board unfortunately
 
You have the data, you just need to use a multimeter to check continuity of the outputs when they are switched.
basic video https://youtu.be/ieyr63wDqG0

I've done a couple of GM5 replacements and discovered that unless you are quite proficient and have decent re-soldering and soldering kit you are likely to damage the twin-layer board (even pro's reported doing so, but were able to do the repair). The relays are very cheap and prone to failure so I just sent the GM5 to a pro to swap the relays at a very reasonable cost.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=102586

Let us know how it goes :thumbsup:
 
Ewazix said:
You have the data, you just need to use a multimeter to check continuity of the outputs when they are switched.
basic video https://youtu.be/ieyr63wDqG0
Sure, but how do you do that when the relay is soldered onto the board without potentially damaging the other more delicate circuitry? (rhetorical Q. You can't unless you have a full schematic of the GM5 module to figure it out - which assumes you know what you are doing to begin with)

You would have to leave it plugged in to the car (unless you've built a test harness) and somehow get a multimeter onto the right solder joints while the car is being locked/unlocked.

As you say, cheaper to simply send it off just in case - the relays will likely fail at some point anyway - or alternatively use the Chipquik solution that worked for me if you know what you are doing with a soldering iron.
 
poss said:
Ewazix said:
You have the data, you just need to use a multimeter to check continuity of the outputs when they are switched.
basic video https://youtu.be/ieyr63wDqG0
Sure, but how do you do that when the relay is soldered onto the board without potentially damaging the other more delicate circuitry? (rhetorical Q. You can't unless you have a full schematic of the GM5 module to figure it out - which assumes you know what you are doing to begin with)

You would have to leave it plugged in to the car (unless you've built a test harness) and somehow get a multimeter onto the right solder joints while the car is being locked/unlocked.

As you say, cheaper to simply send it off just in case - the relays will likely fail at some point anyway - or alternatively use the Chipquik solution that worked for me if you know what you are doing with a soldering iron.

You've got it :thumbsup:
 
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