How to: Identify genuine CSL's

R

Raify

Active member
A recent run in with a BMW dealer allows me to make a useful how to:

Replica CSL's have all the correct codes on the front, even the BMW part number. But they're missing "BMW" embossed between the M logo and the centre:

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On the back of genuine CSL's you will find the BBS logo:

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The centre of the genuine wheel has recesses between the bolt holes:

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and the replica does not:

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More pics of the back of replicas:

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gannet said:
Does this mean you got it all sorted?

useful info :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

No, still ongoing. :roll:

Despite having ticked the "check for approved wheel and tyre combinations" and "check for all non-approved equipment and inform customer" boxes on the AUC check, they (dealer and BMW UK) maintain that everything is fine. I've asked them for the list of approved wheels so I can see where it says "CSL replica from unknown manufacturer."

Thought this might be useful for prospective buyers, particularly since the only "tell" on the outside is the missing BMW embossing.
 
Superb info. :thumbsup:

Wonder if any kind mods might duplicate this thread into the How To section.

Great work BeeDub, hope you get it sorted with the dealer. :headbang:
 
Oh, just remembered another "tell" on the outside of the wheel:

The BMW centre cap has 2 silver rings around the outside edge, instead of one.
 
Update:

The Stealers at Dick Lovett have finally identified the manufacturer of my wheels- Outlaw and the model is Anarchist
 
Hello,
it may be worth stating the correct sizes on this thread.

I have found a set of wheels however I am not convinced they are genuine BMW despite the seller stating otherwise.

Any other distinguisinh features!?
 
Thought I would bump this thread up instead of starting a new one

Are genuine csl's also staggered fitment? Also, does anyone know if there is a significant weight difference between genuine and replicas? I'm looking at getting a set soon for my z4mc, but if there isn't a big difference in weight, then I don't see any reason not to get replicas instead?
 
Theres a massive weight saving or the cash in your pocket. I plan on getting replicas.

Correct me if I'm wrong, genuine only come in 19" but you can get 18" and 19" replicas?
 
Liam-O said:
Theres a massive weight saving or the cash in your pocket. I plan on getting replicas.

Correct me if I'm wrong, genuine only come in 19" but you can get 18" and 19" replicas?
Click to expand...


Not necessarily, if you are patient you can find genuine CSL's at the right money, mine needed a refurb which I was happy to do my self, for under £700 and I know of a forum member who got a set of minters too for a little more.

OEM's do only come in 19" too and they are lighter, but in all honesty I can't tell the difference with everyday driving, my thing was that I didn't want any made from monkey metal so as a result the extra was worth it for me. :driving:
 
what offsets should we be looking out for? and do the genuine e46 csl's fit without any need for spacers etc and without any rubbing issues? is it just a case of bolt them on, job done?
 
Rye said:
what offsets should we be looking out for? and do the genuine e46 csl's fit without any need for spacers etc and without any rubbing issues? is it just a case of bolt them on, job done?
Click to expand...

They fit straight on, ET27 for the rears and ET44 for the fronts although I have a 12mm spacer on the fronts :thumbsup:
 
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