How to get streak marks out of fabric top?
- Thread starter Aranshaw
- Start date
That looks terrible, certainly looks as if some Muppet has power washed it.
I use fabsil on mine but I don't think it would correct the marks you have. Others use renovo which should do the job. I have read that you can use shoe polish after cleaning to give a deep black colour but not tried that myself.
I use fabsil on mine but I don't think it would correct the marks you have. Others use renovo which should do the job. I have read that you can use shoe polish after cleaning to give a deep black colour but not tried that myself.
WTF that looks abused my Z top is now 15 years old lives outside and is still looking good.I would get that looked at by a pro before spending money on cleaners or protection coatings but at the end of the day if its not letting water its only cosmetic which can be sorted but not a fan of boot polish for colour revival myself
Wash the roof with whatever you're washing it with.
Take one of these to the roof...
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/vikan-upholstery-nail-brush
Rinse and repeat until the dirt stops coming out.
Waterproof with whatever you use.
I use the Autoglym kit twice per year.
Take one of these to the roof...
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/vikan-upholstery-nail-brush
Rinse and repeat until the dirt stops coming out.
Waterproof with whatever you use.
I use the Autoglym kit twice per year.
nhartgolfer
Member
The Autoglym cleaner is great, I use it every couple of months to keep the top looking it’s best. However, I never use the waterproofing second coat that the kit comes with!
The fabric top isn’t meant to be waterproof!! The layer below is and that’s the way it’s designed to work. If you use the waterproofing, the fabric will end up getting crusty until eventually, the roof won’t operate properly.
The fabric top isn’t meant to be waterproof!! The layer below is and that’s the way it’s designed to work. If you use the waterproofing, the fabric will end up getting crusty until eventually, the roof won’t operate properly.
My roof is washed regularly with BMW cleaner and a soft brush and looked clean, someone on here mentioned using a wet vac' so I thought I'd give it a go after rinsing and was shocked by the brown mess that was lifted from my 'clean' roof! Two more wash 'n vacs later the water finally cleared, it also lifts the fabric pile which helps with wear/fold marks, so a big thumbs up for using a wet vac 
skelters said:
Ive done a lot of googling on the best way to clean the E85 top and there are so many arguments(strong) opinions on both sides I don't know what to believe so I got it cleaned and proofed with AG by a detailer and he left me with the half bottles so I can re do it in a few months.
But the argument is that its ok to proof as long as it only protects the fibres which is the mohair outer. The key seems to be breathability so something like tent waterproofer is bad but outdoor clothing proofer is ok and Ragtop is best (Formulated by the OEM that makes the roof and is recommended by them but sold by someone else).
The other argument is you need to allow water to the middle layer to stop the bytly rubber from drying and cracking as that is the actual waterproof layer and the mohair is to look pretty.
Im no scientist or soft top expert (my first roadster hence the googling) but as far as I am aware rubber only cracks and breaks down in the presence of UV radiation and its protected by the outer so it should last a rather long time.
nhartgolfer
Member
Nice that a “senior member” resorts to swearing at someone giving honest and well intentioned advice!
One question. Did BMW think it necessary to waterproof the fabric? No. So why bother doing it!!
Thanks for your reasoned argument though.
One question. Did BMW think it necessary to waterproof the fabric? No. So why bother doing it!!
Thanks for your reasoned argument though.
nhartgolfer said:
The reason I would use a protector is that it seems to be recommended by the OEM that makes the roof and suggests that it helps prevent mould and mildew in outdoor cars like mine.
http://www.haartz.com/cleaning-guide/cloth-top-cleaning
The BMW design argument I would counter that the cars were designed to be services every 10-15k or 2 years, Is it adequate? yes will it harm the car? no so why do most people on the forum service every 5-8k or yearly, because we love the car and want to make sure its good for the next 15 years.
Both sides have their reasons and if it works for you and others then why not.
nhartgolfer
Member
Thanks for disagreeing in a civil manner Matty.
Servicing your car more than recommended by BMW will not do any harm.
Putting waterproof products on your soft top can cause damage. I’ve seen it, which is why I posted my comment.
I’m sure that Aranshaw will weigh up the advice and do what he thinks is best!
Servicing your car more than recommended by BMW will not do any harm.
Putting waterproof products on your soft top can cause damage. I’ve seen it, which is why I posted my comment.
I’m sure that Aranshaw will weigh up the advice and do what he thinks is best!
Some technical information was posted in this thread which is worth considering before committing to products being applied to our roof material. https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=81422&hilit
In it CJ posted info from BMW:
"The roof is actually 3 layers. The outer layer is itself 3 layers of poly-acryoniltrite fibres, polyethylene fibres and butyl rubber. Underneath that is a 15mm layer of insulating polyester (sound proof and warmth) and the final inner layer of polyurethane foam and polyethersulfone, for inside finish and insulation."
From research I did back then the roof manufacturers also make the tops for Audi and Merc's etc and do NOT recommend using a proofing agent (I'm sure they would flog you some if they could!
). Apparently the roof is designed to allow the outer layer to become wet with the butyl layer providing the waterproof layer. Butyl is a very resilient rubber but can be affected by some solvents found in many proofing agents including Fabsil (see data sheets I posted) which some people had used and which I had considered. The one product I'd really steer clear of unless your roof is so knackered that you are thinking of replacing it, is Renovo; I've used it on old skool roofs and it works OK but is a sod to apply evenly and leaves your roof with a very artificial looking layer that can never be restored and will trap water in the under-layer. It can go patchy after a while necessitating a new application and IMHO and experience is only useful as a last-ditch solution to pretty-up a shagged roof (e.g before selling the car! :wink: ).
Having said all this, members use proofing products with varying success and I don't recall anybody's roof falling apart or turning in to a sieve, so maybe it doesn't matter? (apart from Renovo, there have been several pics posted of awful results!). Personally I'd rather rely on the makers actual advice on cleaning properly with approved product types, not proofing it and allowing the roof to dry before stowing.
In it CJ posted info from BMW:
"The roof is actually 3 layers. The outer layer is itself 3 layers of poly-acryoniltrite fibres, polyethylene fibres and butyl rubber. Underneath that is a 15mm layer of insulating polyester (sound proof and warmth) and the final inner layer of polyurethane foam and polyethersulfone, for inside finish and insulation."
From research I did back then the roof manufacturers also make the tops for Audi and Merc's etc and do NOT recommend using a proofing agent (I'm sure they would flog you some if they could!
). Apparently the roof is designed to allow the outer layer to become wet with the butyl layer providing the waterproof layer. Butyl is a very resilient rubber but can be affected by some solvents found in many proofing agents including Fabsil (see data sheets I posted) which some people had used and which I had considered. The one product I'd really steer clear of unless your roof is so knackered that you are thinking of replacing it, is Renovo; I've used it on old skool roofs and it works OK but is a sod to apply evenly and leaves your roof with a very artificial looking layer that can never be restored and will trap water in the under-layer. It can go patchy after a while necessitating a new application and IMHO and experience is only useful as a last-ditch solution to pretty-up a shagged roof (e.g before selling the car! :wink: ). Having said all this, members use proofing products with varying success and I don't recall anybody's roof falling apart or turning in to a sieve, so maybe it doesn't matter? (apart from Renovo, there have been several pics posted of awful results!). Personally I'd rather rely on the makers actual advice on cleaning properly with approved product types, not proofing it and allowing the roof to dry before stowing.
srhutch said:
If you apply the protector and then run a hose over the fabric, the water will run off in balls, like it would on waxed paintwork.
Sure looked waterproof when I used it and tried this.
I haven't used the protector for around a year, so it no longer acts like this when it rains.
Shame autoglym don't seem to sell their cleaner on its own :headbang: Think I'll give auto finesse rag top a go next time. It's currently £7.47 a bottle from eurocarparts
unsure whether to purchase the protector after reading all this though!