How to get rid of green mildew? off hood

M

Magicarcher

Active member
 Warwickshire
Hi I live in an area with lots of trees. Noticed today that where my hood joins the body, the hood is developing the green mould that the infernal trees do to virtually everything.

Does anyone know the best way to clean it off and hopefully prevent recurrence (other than garage, which isn't an option)
 
On my to do soon list is washing/brushing the hood with a mild solution of Milton fluid (stuff for disinfecting baby stuff) which will kill the green growth then good wash with car cleaning soap and water. Then on the next dry day (or dry hood day if it takes a little longer to dry) a brush over and vacuum then wash again. I hate the mild/wet winters in Norfolk. Never cold enough to kill anything off.

and before you know it I'll be doing the same again next year its an annual thing.
 
Cool I'll try Milton, didn't know about that one.

What mix do people use? Baby mix?

Then just brush it in/agitate and leave to dwell?
Or quick ish rinse?
 
The Milton works very well, as it actually kills the mould. BUT be careful with the dilution. I use 40ml in 4L of warm water, any more and you risk bleaching the colour.. Trust me, I know this from painful experience when sanitising the soft serve machine in the shop!

Apply it with a spray bottle, getting the area wet, and I then agitate with a SOFT bristled brush, leave 5 mins, spray again and then rinse thoroughly.

Mike
 
Here's my 'how to' thread on using the Milton method: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=100317
 
I tried the milton method after reading about it on here. Worked very well for me after my second try, I made the mistake of wetting the entire hood first and that made it difficult to pinpoint the bad spots on it afterwards. So the next day I rubbed the milton into the green spots first and agitated it well, then finished by going over the entire hood once more before rinsing well. Worked a treat :)
 
Ducklakeview said:
The Milton works very well, as it actually kills the mould. BUT be careful with the dilution. I use 40ml in 4L of warm water, any more and you risk bleaching the colour.. Trust me, I know this from painful experience when sanitising the soft serve machine in the shop!

Apply it with a spray bottle, getting the area wet, and I then agitate with a SOFT bristled brush, leave 5 mins, spray again and then rinse thoroughly.

Mike
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Marlon said:
Here's my 'how to' thread on using the Milton method: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=100317
Click to expand...


Cheers Mike & Marlon, as usual you are a wealth of knowledge. I will be off to buy my Milton this afternoon.
 
Anmarube said:
Nanu said:
Buying an e89 would prevent recurrence :rofl: :poke:
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Oh my....... :rofl:
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LOL I had this very thought when I was having trouble removing mould from the top but I was lucky enough to find a Pro detailer who keeps my top looking superb for £60 a year
 
GAZA62 said:
LOL I had this very thought when I was having trouble removing mould from the top but I was lucky enough to find a Pro detailer who keeps my top looking superb for £60 a year
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£60 a year to clean the roof :o :o

Mike
 
Once it's clean you need to protect it. I use Fabsil Gold which is a silicone based tent water proofer and works far, far better than the more expensive products from Renovo or Autoglym.

You need to try not to get any on your paintwork, so if you're anyway clumsy with a paintbrush best to mask it off first. Silicone prevents any new paint adhering to old paint so if you need a paint job done in the following months after contamination your body shop will curse your bones.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grangers-Fabsil-Gold-1-lt/dp/B002UG8IQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518883117&sr=8-1&keywords=fabsil+gold
 
The outer layer of the roof is not meant to be waterproof. Treating it with anything that stiffens the fabric, such as a waterproofer means that they can stop folding properly, and either rub, causing marks, or catch on the car as they fold.

Mike
 
1972nail said:
Once it's clean you need to protect it. I use Fabsil Gold which is a silicone based tent water proofer and works far, far better than the more expensive products from Renovo or Autoglym.

You need to try not to get any on your paintwork, so if you're anyway clumsy with a paintbrush best to mask it off first. Silicone prevents any new paint adhering to old paint so if you need a paint job done in the following months after contamination your body shop will curse your bones.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grangers-Fabsil-Gold-1-lt/dp/B002UG8IQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518883117&sr=8-1&keywords=fabsil+gold
Click to expand...

I've used fabsil gold on vert roofs it's great and lasts ages. I used it on the zed about a year or so ago and it's only getting to the point where it could do with a reapplication now. Its always lasted longer than the likes of autoglym and other hood stuff I've tried by a country mile. I was originally recommended it by a classic car restoration garage. They told me to apply it using a small sponge and a mini roller tray as it gives much more controlled coverage and I didn't need to mask the car as a result.
After I did it a member on here pointed out that there could be a compatibility issue with one of the rubber inner layers of the roof (The roof is tri layered) due to the chemical composition of the fabsil and the rubber. Not the outer layer though. Obviously I'd already done it at this stage so there wasn't much I could do to remedy the situation. To be honest its been fine and was fine on all the other verts ive owned and used it on over the years. Some of them having repeated coats for anything up to 6 six years before I sold them. It certainly didn't make the roof harder or tighter, not like a few of the roof recolouring products I've tried over the years. My roof have always felt like I bought them and as the fabsil is designed for tents etc I can't see it hardening anything as they get folded repeatedly and wouldn't last five minutes if they hardened etc.

I'm no chemist so can't say either way but never had an issue with the fabsil but the chemical incompatibility with one if the inner rubber layers has got me questioning whether I should use it going forward. Jurys out at the moment.
 
Ducklakeview said:
GAZA62 said:
LOL I had this very thought when I was having trouble removing mould from the top but I was lucky enough to find a Pro detailer who keeps my top looking superb for £60 a year
Click to expand...

£60 a year to clean the roof :o :o

Mike
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£60 is a good price live on the outskirts of London Mike so its more expensive you should see the price a pint down here :cry:

I used to do it myself for a few years but with the car living outside and only getting used at weekends the hood could sit for days soaking wet so the mildew took hold after a last ditch attempt using my AG kit I gave up it just was not going anywhere and my tennis elbow was killing me it got to the point of selling the car as it looked awful add to that it was costing me around £30 each time I decided to find a Pro and was recommended Dean off Highshine to sort it and he did cleaned and treated once a year nice and black again no creases and no sign of mildew for an extra £30 :D
 
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