Help

R

RayM

Member
 Cheltenham
Evening all

Just got back in from work so I thought take the zed out for a spin before dark.

Oh no wont start.... All the ignition lights are on but I'm getting the dreaded click... Battery was fully charged the weekend and it still seems ok, headlights working etc. First thought is starter motor. I've tried rocking back and forward in gear but no joy.

Any ideas?
 
I would still suspect the battery first
In my experience when they go it is all of a sudden.
Check for loose connections
Can you start with jump leads/bump start.
 
Obewan .... I've got it back on the charger now to see if it will start after a charge and also see what the battery conditioner says. If it quickly goes to a charged state then I think I might be able to eliminate the battery but we will see.

There just seems to be full power everywhere. One odd thing though, although the headlights are switched off when I try to turn her over these also try to come on at the same time? Most odd
 
Odd about the lights
I only mention about the battery as my mate once drove back 5 hrs from Aberdeen, went out 30 mins later and car wouldn't start.
The battery although showing fully charged wasn't holding it,
Have you a volt meter - I think it should give a reading of about 14v with no load on it
don't quote me - Someone more technical will be along soon
 
Found this
Re: Does my Z4 need a new alternator?
Unread postby Ewazix ยป Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:45 am

It's always worth checking that the battery, alternator and chassis earth connections are all good first.
Once done the basic DIY test of battery & alternator with a volt meter involves measuring over the battery +/- terminals without the engine running looking for about 12.4 ish Volts (good battery).
Then with the engine running and electrical accessories OFF a healthy alternator should be giving around 13.7v - 14.5v. Stick a load of accessories on then see if the voltage drops below 13V, if so the alternator is functioning but marginal and may be on it's way out.
 
Ray,

It is worth noting that batteries are multi-celled organisms and if one cell goes bad, others may still be healthy. Meaning, the cell that often goes bad is associated with high-amperage which is what powers the starter but the ones that are lower amperage draw still operate lights and the stereo. Check your voltage prior to recharging (should be above 12.4v) and then again after 12-16 hours of recharge (should be above 13.5 during the charge, if below that then the alternator is shot). If you happen to have a drain going on, then you will have to pull fuses to see which relay. last thing would be to check the fluid in each cell with a hydrometer. Not your typical garage item so check with your local auto parts store. But then, they can check the entire battery there (or at least those in the States do).
 
Cheers for all the input guys. I put the battery on the CTEK for 25 minutes max and hay presto 4 lights on the conditioner and away she went. But, and there is always a but. The clock and average mpg, mph etc were cleared. Switched on the radio that worked but the cd changer won't. The display read "CHECK CD" tried to eject changer but it's not having it. It makes the usual whirring sound but won't come out, any ideas?

Like you said previously the battery looks suspect, although I will make the other checks first
 
Once a battery has gone flat just get a new one, wont ever hold charge effectively again. Assuming you don't need to investigate the fault e.g. if you've left the car sat for a couple of weeks.
 
Thinking more about the battery I think this is favourite as I think it's the original one for staters, well at least it is 4 years old as the last owner didn't change it. I fully charged it 5 days ago on the battery conditioner so unless I have a short or something draining the battery unnecessarily it should have started ok. I think the alternator is maybe not at fault.
 
Any ideas on the best replacement (within reason) ? I've looked on eurospares and they are anything from ยฃ60 with a 3 year guarantee up to ยฃ120 with a five year .

Are Bosch ok or should it be something specific?
 
Bosch are fine, but for some reason often fail within the warranty. Not sure about any other makes though, the last battery I changed was on my 7 series and the dealer OEM was actually cheaper than an aftermarket one.
 
rjsimmons said:
Ray,

It is worth noting that batteries are multi-celled organisms and if one cell goes bad, others may still be healthy. Meaning, the cell that often goes bad is associated with high-amperage which is what powers the starter but the ones that are lower amperage draw still operate lights and the stereo.
Click to expand...

Sorry, not understanding this. Have never heard of high-amperage or low-amperage cells. I thought all cells are the same:
Batteries are typically made of six galvanic cells in a series circuit. Each cell provides 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volts at full charge.
How can the cells be high or low amperages, if they're all the same? (not confusing volts and amps)
 
Have a look on eBay. Think the company is Tanya batteries
Good price and amperage. Pretty sure there are really varta
 
obewan said:
Have a look on eBay. Think the company is Tanya batteries
Good price and amperage. Pretty sure there are really varta
Click to expand...

Is this the one?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=272036335146&alt=web

Their compatability checker says it will fit, and it's really cheap with a 4 year warranty so tempted to get one as think mine is on its way out
 
Sorry just found this one again from Tanya it's only a quid more and it's 76ah instead of 63ah on the last I posted.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251410202004&alt=web

Anyone with any experience know if it's going to be any good
 
85genius said:
obewan said:
Have a look on eBay. Think the company is Tanya batteries
Good price and amperage. Pretty sure there are really varta
Click to expand...

Is this the one?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=272036335146&alt=web

Their compatability checker says it will fit, and it's really cheap with a 4 year warranty so tempted to get one as think mine is on its way out
Click to expand...
Isn't that lower power than your existing battery? Unless the battery in the 2.5Si is higher? The OEM battery in my 2.5Si is 80Ah 640CCA, the one in that ebay link is 63Ah, 590CCA.
Or is that not enough of a difference to worry about?
 
enzed4 said:
85genius said:
obewan said:
Have a look on eBay. Think the company is Tanya batteries
Good price and amperage. Pretty sure there are really varta
Click to expand...

Is this the one?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=272036335146&alt=web

Their compatability checker says it will fit, and it's really cheap with a 4 year warranty so tempted to get one as think mine is on its way out
Click to expand...
Isn't that lower power than your existing battery? Unless the battery in the 2.5Si is higher? The OEM battery in my 2.5Si is 80Ah 640CCA, the one in that ebay link is 63Ah, 590CCA.
Or is that not enough of a difference to worry about?
Click to expand...

The next link I posted was 76Ah and 670CCA only a quid more than the first but honestly don't know if that's ok or not lol was asking if it would be.. Will check the spec ofmy current one tomorrow
 
85genius - oops sorry - didn't spot your second link. That's much closer to OEM ratings.
I'm about to start the hunt for a replacement battery, but feeling a bit overwhelmed with what is the 'right' battery to fit. Just trying to find something that sits between the astronomically-priced dealer supplied item, and a budget brand box that may not do the job, or may not last long.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom