Help-rust proofing....

[Anonymous]

My tractor mower is just over 18 month's old, but the rust proofing on it is non existent, I did paint black rust proofing on (Halfords) when I first purchased it as you can see, but it cannot have been very good as some of it has flaked off! some of the rust is surface only and will scrub off.

This is a problem with these type of mowers as the same thing happened to my last one, it's always the mower deck that rot's :?
I need something that stop's rust permanently, what have you used ?
Not bothered on cost just want the best that I can buy.

I did think about fibreglass but not sure how that would turn out

 

[srhutch]

It would have to be very durable, try some underseal

 

[Anonymous]

It would have to be very durable, try some underseal

Did that when it was new but it didn't work

 

[Ewazix]

Hi, that steel looks better than the underside of some cars I've owned!

Anyway, you should not confuse the rust protection which you applied, with rust treatment which is now needed. You need to use a chemical product to 'convert' the oxidised iron (rust) in to an inert surface that can be painted over, ensuring that any protective paint or coating does not simply peel off as the rust develops, which I expect is what happened with your mower. Again putting a coat of glass fibre resin on the top would not stop the rust only cover it unless it's treated.

In my experience most auto rust converters work as well as each other and I have used the Hammerite converter and hard wearing protective paints on various non-cosmetic parts and equipment. That should do the job in your case.

 

[Taz]

hammerite?

 

[Ewazix]

hammerite?

They do rust converters, primers and even top coats that can be painted straight on to rust and will do a decnt job for a few years if you are not too fussed. Tough surface could suit under a mower. Available all over the place including Halfords and DIYs

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/

 

[pvr]

Hmm, I have had a few of those and never had an issue with rust being a problem to the functioning of it. I just clean it up like you did, sharpened the blades and used it for a few more years.

Due to the size of my cutting area, my machines have not lasted longer then 5 years anyway so rust was the least of my problems

 

[Anonymous]

They do not last longer than 5/6 years due to the cutter deck's having rust problems, I always buy the market leader and others I know have different brands and we all have same problem, strange that you don't?

The rest of the tractor is always fine (Briggs and Stratton engines go on forever) but to buy a new cutter deck complete is not cost effective so I always buy a new mower again.

 

[pvr]

I have the Countax models and the hydrostatic clutch has always gone before the deck for me.

 

[jhbuining]

Well... if cost isn't an issue... have you tried corroseal?

 

[sars]

Strip it down completely, to bare metal and get it hot dipped galvanised.

 

[cj10jeeper]

Frankly anything except as sars mentions of galvanising will be just a short term protection. The harsh environment of stones and wet grass applied to it every mow, then stored wet no doubt with compacted grass on the inside, on top of cheap pressed steel, will rust in a short time.

Quickest would just be a brush around with hammerite as also mentioned as it needs no pre treatment other than a clean dry surface and is more durable than other finishes.

 

[sars]

Frankly anything except as sars mentions of galvanising will be just a short term protection. The harsh environment of stones and wet grass applied to it every mow, then stored wet no doubt with compacted grass on the inside, on top of cheap pressed steel, will rust in a short time.

Quickest would just be a brush around with hammerite as also mentioned as it needs no pre treatment other than a clean dry surface and is more durable than other finishes.

Oh really, thought that was the whole point of galvanising.

"The effect of this is that the zinc is consumed first as a sacrificial anode, so that it cathodically protects exposed steel. This means that in case of scratches through the zinc coating, the exposed steel will be cathodically protected by the surrounding zinc coating"

seems like a solution to me

 

[cj10jeeper]

Frankly anything except as sars mentions of galvanising will be just a short term protection. The harsh environment of stones and wet grass applied to it every mow, then stored wet no doubt with compacted grass on the inside, on top of cheap pressed steel, will rust in a short time.

Quickest would just be a brush around with hammerite as also mentioned as it needs no pre treatment other than a clean dry surface and is more durable than other finishes.

Oh really, thought that was the whole point of galvanising.

"The effect of this is that the zinc is consumed first as a sacrificial anode, so that it cathodically protects exposed steel. This means that in case of scratches through the zinc coating, the exposed steel will be cathodically protected by the surrounding zinc coating"

seems like a solution to me

I was totally agreeing with you as the only method to afford long term protection.

That aside it woudl take time and effort stripping down and getting it done so my second comment about the quickest way being a paint arouns with Hammerite

 

[Anonymous]

Many thanks for the suggestions, like the idea by sars, but to galvanize would mean completely stripping the unit and having to re-spray the outside red again, however I did finish the job a few days ago after stripping back to bare metal with these.