HELP - my car will not move!

1

1340fxd

Member
Just went to my garage, opened the car up using the remote to drop the roof, jumped in and started her - all as normal. Put in 1st gear, removed handbrake and... nothing, car will not move! It's like the rear end has locked up - I first checked in case someone had fitted a wheel clamp. The car will not move forwards or backwards, not under engine or if I try to push it by hand.

It does appear to be the rear wheels that are locked and there is a slight metalic "clunk" as I push it to and fro by hand.

Any ideas anyone?

It's a 2005 2.0L with 14,000 miles on the clock purchased from a dealer six months ago - drives like a dream and no problems so far.

:(
 
Probably had wet rear handbrake brake shoes and you parked it up so they have bonded to the inside of the drums.

Just stick it in gear and drive it. Might clunk when it release or lurch a bit, so have some space.
 
HAndbrake, which locks rear wheels only, seized up perhaps ? Has the car been sitting idle for a while ? Try moving it forwards rather than backwards ?
 
good luck,i put mine in garage every night,but leave the handbrake off,as had
similar problem with my last beemer.
 
cj10jeeper said:
Probably had wet rear handbrake brake shoes and you parked it up so they have bonded to the inside of the drums.

Just stick it in gear and drive it. Might clunk when it release or lurch a bit, so have some space.
Click to expand...

X2

My old Calibra used to suffer badly with this just make sure you have plenty of room cos she will suddenly lurch i used to run forward and back to get them to release but was not in a garage.
 
x3

When it happened to me I rocked the car backwards and forwards on the clutch and eventually it came free but I did have to give it a fair amount of welly.

Good luck!
 
Invert an old large plastic handled screwdriver through the spokes of the rear wheels(if they will allow) and bring into contact with the calipers,belt the blade end hard and shock the pads loose. Remember only hit the calipers with the hard plastic handle of the screwdriver or something similar
 
Mik said:
Invert an old large plastic handled screwdriver through the spokes of the rear wheels(if they will allow) and bring into contact with the calipers,belt the blade end hard and shock the pads loose. Remember only hit the calipers with the hard plastic handle of the screwdriver or something similar
Click to expand...

Mik
The Z4 uses old style drum and shoes built inside the top hats of the rear rotors to create a separate hand operated drum brake. It's a completely separate system the the rear calipers so this will not be helpful.
 
My 325 used to do that after I washed it. One good clunk and she was good to go. I haven't noticed it on my coupe but I don't store it as you did your roadster.
 
Jabba said:
x3

When it happened to me I rocked the car backwards and forwards on the clutch and eventually it came free but I did have to give it a fair amount of welly.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

That's the way to do it.... Make sure you are quick to get on the brakes once free and ensure you have a clear area that you're pointing at. Oh, and don't leave the handbrake on next time you park up, use something to chock the wheels...... In fact, that's not what you've done have you...? Have a peek under the car for a bike, dog, lawnmower, etc.... :lol:
 
Had same issue after I washed it, but that felt like it was the front right.

Give it a bit, it'll come loose.

Unless it is what cj was saying, having the drums themselves actually locked up.

Good Luck
 
Perhaps I should have been clearer in my initial post. I just thought this was such a well known phenomenon that the solution would be clear.

Take a car, get its wheels wet (which can just be condensation from warming and cooling cycles in a garage, driving or washing and store it with the handbrake on and it will bond on solid in even a few hours. It's not just rust, but the lining being wet sticks to the friction surface. As everyone has now echoed just get in and drive it.....

I also totally agree that a car should never be stored with the handbrake on, indeed in a garage in gear/Park is all it ever needs. Car relying on the handbrake often roll away as the brakes cool the components shrink and let go :thumbsdown:
 
Thank you everyone - sound advice :)

And I had washed the car including power sprayed the wheels before putting away, so never that again. It took a hec of a lot of power to crack the brakes free - I would not have had the balls to do this had I not had your experienced advice. I did rock it a bit but ultimately dragged the locked wheels across the ground before it let go with quite a crack. Took her for a drive and used the brakes (including hand brake on the move) and all works well again.

The fast response from everyone is brilliant 0 thanks again :thumbsup:
 
Glad you were brave and sorted it.

Next time just take the car for a drive after power washing, run the brakes a bit to warm things up and do as you did and apply the handbrake lightly for say 100m while driving to boil off any water inside.

Store in gear and handbrake off and all will be just fine
 
cj10jeeper said:
Glad you were brave and sorted it.

Next time just take the car for a drive after power washing, run the brakes a bit to warm things up and do as you did and apply the handbrake lightly for say 100m while driving to boil off any water inside.

Store in gear and handbrake off and all will be just fine
Click to expand...

I always go for a quick drive to dry the brake out after suffering from this, and as you say apply the handbrake also whiclt moving. Never had a problem since.
 
Glad you got it sorted i remember leaving two black lines down the drive with my old car but the Z seems OK no probs after sitting for 5 weeks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom