Help - I think its f...d

I

idej_z4

Senior member
Hi,

My rear LED stopped working recently so I removed the housing and it was full of water. I then tried to remove the clip and it's rusted on from the water and snapped one of the connectors and impossible to remove!!! Below is an image of the situation. Is this totally knackered?

I've found one on eBay that I can probably get for around £120 and it includes the clip and wiring so could potentially just cut the wires and rejoin with the new one. If this is possible, would it need any coding or anything like that. Apologies if that is a stupid question, I'm useless with electrics.

The annoying thing is I know when the water got into the car...it wasn't when I had as its always garaged. It was when it went in for some repairs and was sat outside during a massive storm...I know this because the boot carpet was all wet, never thought to check the lights! :headbang: :headbang:

Light Cluster.png
 
Worst case would be cut the wires and rejoin to new donor. No coding required.

I would see if I could remove the pins from the plug and clean them up, first though. If not then as above.
 
get yerself some DeOxit and lash it on.
Not cheap but cheaper than a new lightcluster!
 
srhutch said:
Worst case would be cut the wires and rejoin to new donor. No coding required.

I would see if I could remove the pins from the plug and clean them up, first though. If not then as above.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I've tried with every tool in my box to get it out but it's rusted together I think. Turns out they are like rocking horse poop, the one I found on eBay was drivers side.

Pre-face lift and you're laughing all the way to the bank. You can pick one up for less than £40.
 
A few people have had rear lights LED die on them. Might be able to Frankenstein one?
 
If it was mine I would firstly test the unit to make sure it all works now it's out of the water. If it's OK I'd snip all the tabs close up to the connection and the same with the wires on the other side. Clean up the tabs and solder and heat shrink a good length tail of wire to each one and use a Junior Timer plug to join bacg to the wiring loom
https://polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html
 
Stevepj said:
If it was mine I would firstly test the unit to make sure it all works now it's out of the water. If it's OK I'd snip all the tabs close up to the connection and the same with the wires on the other side. Clean up the tabs and solder and heat shrink a good length tail of wire to each one and use a Junior Timer plug to join bacg to the wiring loom
https://polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html
Click to expand...

I wish I had the skills to do that...although I might know a man who does! Thanks for the advice / input - really appreciate it!!! :thumbsup:
 
The testing is pretty straightforward, make a connection from the earth tab to the negative terminal of the battery with a length of wire and then with another length of wire connected to the positive terminal briefly touched to each of the other tabs check all parts of the light are working, then at least you'll know if you need a new light or need to repair.
If the light is all working any computer repair shop should be able to solder wires to the unit for you then it's a case of crimping on the connectors.
Or if you're anywhere near Stockport I could give it a go.
 
Stevepj said:
I wish I had the skills to do that...although I might know a man who does! Thanks for the advice / input - really appreciate it!!!
Click to expand...

I've just updated my post above. Thanks again!!!
 
Excellent, hopefully it can be sorted soon. I have the proper crimping tool for JT connectors if your man needs one, although other suitable plugs are available.
 
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