HELP - Broken down and contents stuck in the boot

gwatson said:
I hope so too, but highly doubt it. The way the days was flickering on and off is a worry, will definitely be linked to water ingress in the boot. I know it's been leaking but had been keeping an eye on it and mopping up every now and again.

Could cry right now. Supposed to be going to Nurburgring next Thurs
Mine has been leaking too... just fixed it (I hope!). Just noticed that I had responded to your thread on this...

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=115469
 
Clearly I now wish I spent more time fixing it but life kept getting in the way. Boot is still stripped out too, but just been keeping an eye on it mopping the water out when necessary. I made sure the modules weren't touching the bottom of the foam tray thing too. Clearly not done enough... kicking myself now.
 
gwatson said:
Clearly I now wish I spent more time fixing it but life kept getting in the way. Boot is still stripped out too, but just been keeping an eye on it mopping the water out when necessary. I made sure the modules weren't touching the bottom of the foam tray thing too. Clearly not done enough... kicking myself now.
did you actually redo the seals with the 2 torq bolts above the pictures you posted? that seems to have solved the problem I had... I'm assuming the modules you mention are on the drivers side, but they are in a poly box with a lid so water wouldn't go in?
 
No, never sealed them... just removed it, cleaned and reattached. Was loads of grime etc, so thought that was perhaps breaking the seal, but clearly not. The water seeps up through the polystyrene rather than down into it so lid makes no difference.

Anyway, garage are in to the boot, diagnosis is new roof module & rear brake module £1262 all in!! :( :( :( :(

Moving house in 3 weeks and holiday next week, could really do with out the expense right now. At least I'll have a garage to keep the car dry going forward.

Wonder if the boot would open if those modules are removed, surely it would. Just thinking of removing them to keep them dry when I'm on holiday.
 
enzed4 said:
I know you said electrics aren't working, so I guess suggesting trying to open the roof will open the boot as part of the opening sequence won't work either?
But following the same thought, is there a way to open the roof manually? Would this also unlock the boot to lift it and get access? Can't say I've heard/seen this option though :(

This is possible but only by a bmw dealer, there’s an unlatch boot setting in their software & they then attach scaffold pole type things to the mechanism to overcome the residual hydraulic pressure using leverage :o
Rob
 
gwatson said:
Anyway, garage are in to the boot, diagnosis is new roof module & rear brake module £1262 all in!! :( :( :( :(

Wonder if the boot would open if those modules are removed, surely it would. Just thinking of removing them to keep them dry when I'm on holiday.
ouch!

Do you know how they got into the boot?

The problem if you remove the modules is that the car would record the error, which you'd need to remove. Do you have any diagnostic software for this?

Surely it would be better to remove the seals and put some new sealer in. I only did the edges and that seems to have solved it.
 
clarker63 said:
gwatson said:
Anyway, garage are in to the boot, diagnosis is new roof module & rear brake module £1262 all in!! :( :( :( :(

Wonder if the boot would open if those modules are removed, surely it would. Just thinking of removing them to keep them dry when I'm on holiday.
ouch!

Do you know how they got into the boot?

The problem if you remove the modules is that the car would record the error, which you'd need to remove. Do you have any diagnostic software for this?

Surely it would be better to remove the seals and put some new sealer in. I only did the edges and that seems to have solved it.

No, but I'll find out. Took a couple of hours I believe, trial and error.

Yeah, will definitely be doing that this weekend if I have the car back. Will get black silicon and just go all the way round... Although just worried it'll route the water down to the lights and I'll need to sort that too.
 
Here you go https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive23i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/9fxdHrMZ :thumbsup:
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
Here you go https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive23i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/9fxdHrMZ :thumbsup:
Rob
isnt that for closing the hardtop if you can open the boot? :wink:

And what precisely does "closing" mean? stowing or putting it back up! :rofl:
 
gwatson said:
No, never sealed them... just removed it, cleaned and reattached. Was loads of grime etc, so thought that was perhaps breaking the seal, but clearly not. The water seeps up through the polystyrene rather than down into it so lid makes no difference.

Anyway, garage are in to the boot, diagnosis is new roof module & rear brake module £1262 all in!! :( :( :( :(

Moving house in 3 weeks and holiday next week, could really do with out the expense right now. At least I'll have a garage to keep the car dry going forward.

Wonder if the boot would open if those modules are removed, surely it would. Just thinking of removing them to keep them dry when I'm on holiday.

Ouch... sorry to hear that :o
 
clarker63 said:
Smartbear said:
Here you go https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive23i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/9fxdHrMZ :thumbsup:
Rob
isnt that for closing the hardtop if you can open the boot? :wink:

And what precisely does "closing" mean? stowing or putting it back up! :rofl:

Here you go “jbe component activation system” is where it’s at :?
9D321F61-A433-4DCB-BA14-C5C4D80317CB.png
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
clarker63 said:
Smartbear said:
Here you go https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive23i-roa/repair-manuals/54-slide-tilt-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/9fxdHrMZ :thumbsup:
Rob
isnt that for closing the hardtop if you can open the boot? :wink:

And what precisely does "closing" mean? stowing or putting it back up! :rofl:

Here you go “jbe component activation system” is where it’s at :?
9D321F61-A433-4DCB-BA14-C5C4D80317CB.png
Rob

It seems the US cars have an emergency bowden cable to open an electrically malfunctioning boot, i don’t know how hard this would be to retrofit/source the parts? :?
Rob
 
I've been private messaged details on how to open the boot from a kind chap on E89Post.... but asked not to repeat or post it for obvious security concerns. Will be interesting to see if that's how the garage managed it. Probably the same method suggested above.
Away to collect my contents in half an hour.
 
Smartbear said:
Smartbear said:
clarker63 said:
isnt that for closing the hardtop if you can open the boot? :wink:

And what precisely does "closing" mean? stowing or putting it back up! :rofl:

Here you go “jbe component activation system” is where it’s at :?
9D321F61-A433-4DCB-BA14-C5C4D80317CB.png
Rob

It seems the US cars have an emergency bowden cable to open an electrically malfunctioning boot, i don’t know how hard this would be to retrofit/source the parts? :?
Rob

The lever is there in the mechanism for a cable to be attached.
I have lying around a 12v actuator i always meant to fit to this lever and wire in to the cabin so that in a emergency i could apply 12v and release the boot.
 
flybobbie said:
Smartbear said:
Smartbear said:
Here you go “jbe component activation system” is where it’s at :?
9D321F61-A433-4DCB-BA14-C5C4D80317CB.png
Rob

It seems the US cars have an emergency bowden cable to open an electrically malfunctioning boot, i don’t know how hard this would be to retrofit/source the parts? :?
Rob


The lever is there in the mechanism for a cable to be attached.
I have lying around a 12v actuator i always meant to fit to this lever and wire in to the cabin so that in a emergency i could apply 12v and release the boot.

That could be a really useful addition in case of future issues! :thumbsup:
Rob
 
The question that needs an answer is can the boot be opened without power.
In the US reaching through the ski port and pulling the emergency handle can open the boot, but do the locking latches need power to open.
One hopes that power at least can be attached to engine bay points, if the cabin doors can be opened.

Rather than fitting an actuator to simulate the pull handle, it could be possible to run extra wires to the boot solenoid and drive it directly from an external supply as a future emergency back up.
In this video i made:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEeFPf01714
The white triangle connected to the actuator has a spare hole for a Bowden cable.
When it was pushed to the right it would operate the unlock motors.
So i assume the Bowden cable does the same, if fitted here.
But if that actuator could be operated externally by extra wires, then an emergency opening may be possible.
But it looks like power is still required.
 
flybobbie said:
The question that needs an answer is can the boot be opened without power.
In the US reaching through the ski port and pulling the emergency handle can open the boot, but do the locking latches need power to open.
One hopes that power at least can be attached to engine bay points, if the cabin doors can be opened.

Rather than fitting an actuator to simulate the pull handle, it could be possible to run extra wires to the boot solenoid and drive it directly from an external supply as a future emergency back up.

The boot can be opened using the engine bay points, I accidentally closed the boot while the battery was disconnected. Once hooked up with jump leads, it allows enough power to use the key fob to open the doors and the boot. Luckily I could access the bonnet release
 
If it stats but you have complete electrical breakdown I am putting my money on something simple like a loose 'ancillaries' cable connection at the battery of loose fuse..
 
Back
Top Bottom