Hello Mark, I'm so glad you bought my previous Z4 as I was feeling a bit sad that it was just sitting there and I really hoped it would resurface on here. I just noticed it had gone from Autotrader so came onto the forum hoping to find a new post and voila!
Here's some tips for you:
- It does have an AUX which I installed. It's routed behind the dash and the socket is on the right hand wall inside the glovebox. However, it's not as good quality as the GROM USB3 I installed afterwards so I stopped using it. I can't stand wires trailing in the cabin so didn't put it in the factory location near the gearstick.
- The GROM USB3 is a little black box that emulates a CD multi-changer and is located behind the carpet in the boot against the firewall. I routed the wires through into the lower cubby hole in the centre console so you can plug stuff in out of sight. There is an AUX as one of the cables, which is better quality than the one in the glovebox. One of the USB cables is just for charging and the other you can plug a USB stick to play music through the headunit. As the car has satnav and hence the screen you can see some info on it about the tracks that are playing. The steering wheel controls can be used to switch tracks. You should have the instruction booklet in the paperwork.
There is a problem though as the person who came to view my car plugged their phone in and it didn't work after that so it might have bricked it. My suggestion is to reinstall the firmware. https://gromaudio.co.uk/knowledge_base/
- Get the brake fluid changed as it's a little over 2 years old, otherwise service when the light comes on.
- The wipers were just starting to not park properly again. I cleaned out the grease a while ago but it will need doing again this year. You may need a new cowl as last time some of the clip brackets broke and I had to glue them back on. Here's the procedure: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=55535
- Get yourself a set of 10mm Eibach spacers for the front and back. I had some installed but sold them on when I knew it was going to a dealer. The car handles much better with them on and looks better to boot. I'd advise against anything bigger as it only just didn't rub with 10mm. You'll need some longer bolts too.
- I'd also recommend getting a strut brace which is the other thing I took off and sold. The steering is crisper with it on and it pulls less over ruts. I used this one as it doesn't obstruct the filler cap like many do: http://www.wiechers-sport.de/en/shop/dom-fahrwerkstreben/produkte/df--bmw-z4-e85---e86---3-2l-domstrebe-alu-racingline-vorne-oben-detail
- The second key stopped working remotely but functions in the locks. The other one I bought new during my ownership from BMW. You can either live with it like I did, pay £140 for one from BMW or there are a couple of people on here who can make new ones up for a bit less.
- The rear top mounts are Meyle HD and are a bit noisy making a knocking noise over sharp bumps. It's pretty easy to swap these out and I'd recommend Lemforder which is what it came with originally and they are silent.
- The front bumper has quite a few stone chips but otherwise the paint is in good condition as I cut it all over with Sonax EX 04-06. You may have your own preference but I found Sonax Xtreme Protect & Shine was easy to apply and lasted months even daily driven.
- There is a very small amount of vibration through the chassis at idle when stationary but this is just the uprated engine mounts. On the move I found it no less refined than the stock mounts.
- They're all new tyres but when you change I'd recommend staying with the 245/40/18 rather than the stock 255/35/18 as it keeps the speedo within about 1mph accuracy, there's better ride comfort and less understeer with the reduced stagger. There's still plenty of grip from a 245 and the Quaife differential works wonders.
- You don't need to drive sideways to feel the benefit of the Quaife, it gives a much more connected feel between right foot and rear end when powering through corners plus allows you to take off sharply too.
- You can play with the anti-roll bars but I've already tried all the permutations. The front is on the softer of two settings and gives less understeer that way. The back is on the middle of three as the stiffest gave less overall grip and the droplink wouldn't stretch to the softest. I might have bought some jointed droplinks to try the softest setting if I still had the car.
- The geometry is set max camber front (without getting camber plates) and the rear is set to minimum camber (without getting camber arms). The toe is virtually parallel on the front and not much on the rear. This is quite a lively setup but don't worry, the tail doesn't kick out unless you're heavy footed.
- If it's going to be a keeper you might want to refresh the bushes on the rear subframe at some stage.
That's all I can think of for now but the most important thing is to just enjoy driving it. I'm sure you'll have your own ideas and preferences and I look forward to seeing more of it on the forum in due course.
