Has anyone done the VANOS seal upgrade ?

Old-Duckman

Member
SW Pennsylvania USA
I have been reading what I can about my "new" Z and I read a post on E46FANATICS (well a partial post, the entire post is 307 pages long !). anyway the OP has done much research and seems extremely knowledgeable. He recommends upgrading the VANOS seals no matter how low your mileage is. Excellent instructions at beisansystems.com. The job seems detailed and involved but not too difficult.

Just wondering how many of forum members here have done the upgrade and your thoughts/opinions regarding the upgrade.

I posted this question on Bimmerforums and out of 117 views only one member posted that he had done it before and had performance improvements.

The post on 446FANATICS is very interesting and informative and makes one want to tackle the job.
 
Yes. It's very similar on the Z4 - but access is worse as the engine bay is smaller (specifically the gap between the engine and front crossmember).

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1755842&i=38
 
Yeah those guides are a great help if you've already removed the engine from the car....

I tried to do mine and couldn't get access to the bottom two bolts on the vanos unit. But I think I needed to remove front fan and a few other bits plus get a flexi thing for my sockets. So I have done all the removal of the valve cover etc. But not the other bit. Also whilst you're at it. Do the disa.
 
Jakg said:
Yes. It's very similar on the Z4 - but access is worse as the engine bay is smaller (specifically the gap between the engine and front crossmember).

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1755842&i=38

Thanks for the link...very enlightening. Doesn't make want want to jump into the job.
 
bearded_ed said:
Do the disa.
I already have the parts. That seems like a pretty straight forward and rather easy job. The VANOS seals...well doesn't seem like something I would want to deal with at the moment...
 
Got a rebuilt vanos unit on order from US supplier. Has all seals and bearings replaced. Let you know how I get on fitting it and what difference it makes to my 132k mile 2.5 Z4. Should be fun. Got new torx bolts already and will fit new rocker seals and both cam sensors whilst in there. :?
 
Hello Old-Duckman,

I could hear a rattle from my VANOS (Z4M Coupe) around 3000 rpm and decided to go for a fully reconditioned unit including solenoids etc.
I know it is pricier and that I had to use a specialist to have it fitted but it came with "piece of mind", warranty and upgraded cam bolts etc.

Very happy with the results!

Attilio
 
McTyke said:
Got a rebuilt vanos unit on order from US supplier. Has all seals and bearings replaced. Let you know how I get on fitting it and what difference it makes to my 132k mile 2.5 Z4. Should be fun. Got new torx bolts already and will fit new rocker seals and both cam sensors whilst in there. :?
I look forward to hearing how the job went and how long it takes. Good Luck !
 
Attilio said:
Hello Old-Duckman,

I could hear a rattle from my VANOS (Z4M Coupe) around 3000 rpm and decided to go for a fully reconditioned unit including solenoids etc.
I know it is pricier and that I had to use a specialist to have it fitted but it came with "piece of mind", warranty and upgraded cam bolts etc.

Very happy with the results!

Attilio
When you say you heard a rattle at about 3000...Was that while driving or parked with the hood up listening to the engine as it was revved up ?
 
Hi,

The rattling noise was more noticeable while driving on constant throttle. A faint knocking noise could also be heard in engine bay from the vanos area while revving with the bonnet open.

Hope this helps
A
 
So vanos unit replaced over weekend. Not difficult just limited space on Z4.
As previous posters mentioned, its nigh on impossible to remove vanos without removing the 2 long studs at the bottom. This is easy enough with mole grips and no worries about damaging thread as only very end of stud is used for nut. What I did not expect is that the temp sensor housing in the hose will also prevent it being removed. My only option was to drop bottom hose with some resultant coolant loss. So be prepared.
Also, there was no space to get my torque wrench any where near the 2 vanos plugs or the 2 torx retaining bolts (reverse thread, new ones fitted) I was surprised by how little effort was needed to undo them so just used experience and elbow torque.
The vanos pistons were both very loose in the cyclinders with the seals just about flush so there is no way they could have maintained an oil seal.
Replaced all cam cover seals at same time. All in all taking my time about 3 hours. My car seemed to be running ok, pulling smooth and strong and I am yet to feel a drastic change but seems they take a while to bed in. As the variable valve system depends on high oil pressure to make the adjustment just seeing how loose the old pistons were would be enough to convince me it will be better - even if its just on fuel consumption.
Some pics and videos if they load up. Am now considering fitting new seals to my old vanos and selling. Anyone interested let me know.IMG_E1527.JPGIMG_E1525.JPGIMG_1531.JPG
 
I for the life of me couldn’t figure out how to get past the bit in the guides where people say they bend some sort of pliers to get in. Or if I remember right the alternative was to lift the engine. It’s always pissed me off that I couldn’t get past that point.

Interestingly in my recent escapades with the expansion tank I did wonder if taking out the fan would help? You seem to be able to see the front of the engine more. So interesting to see that in the pic above. Maybe something to look at again
 
Removing the fan definitely gives you a tonne more access for your tools as you can use extensions to reach through.

In terms of the pliers, they would be referring to pulling out the plastic caps in each side. You really need 90 degress pliers to get in there as with the Z's limited space, you can't reach and pull with normal ones.

@duckman, great job on getting this done! :thumbsup: I guess I was one of the lucky ones who didn't need to remove any of the studs - I was able to lever the bulk head enough to get the unit out.
 
Fan comes out quite easily. I removed it when doing vanos, thermostat, belts, pulleys and tensioners.
Have now done over 100 miles of "spirited" driving with new vanos (i am still working so commuting 14 miles every day) and it certainly feels livelier. The biggest difference is sport button - no longer just increases revs!
Planning to strip, clean and overhaul old one including bearings and sell it. I could have returned it to supplier in US but cost of carriage would have been close to value of credit I would have got.
 
That sounds about right @romrdy ....if the fan isn’t on do you still need the angled pliers? One of the only tools I don’t have. Defoe easy to move the fan out the way
 
domsz4 said:
That sounds about right @romrdy ....if the fan isn’t on do you still need the angled pliers? One of the only tools I don’t have. Defoe easy to move the fan out the way

yup, you'll still need the angled pliers even with the fan out. No getting around it (pun... intended?) as the bulk head is in the way . :rofl:
 
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