Hardtop roof issues. 2013 plate

tintoverano said:
bluesun89 said:
10 days ago my roof stopped 90% through on the opening sequence, and had to turn off/on engine and try reclosing/opening to make it complete the cycle eventually. Issues seems either at like 90% of the opening sequence (when only windows need to come up, and boot almost closed), or 80% of the closing sequence (when rear window is on top of roof and needs to go back to its position)
Click to expand...

this happens if the battery is not charged enough and there's not enough juice to finish the operation

if you don't have any fault codes, I wouldn't worry about it right now

if your dealer is not specialized in roof issues, you won't get far
Click to expand...

But then, shouldn't such roof issue go away when the engine is running ? (car idle)
And this wouldnt explain why I have also been getting random 'red' roof button lights (and sound) while driving, no? (and it also locked down the boot and windows while the red light is on)

I'm afraid to try again and end up not being able to close it back (and alarm going off etc..) :) I did a bit of googling and coulndt see an obvious roof specialist (or bmw roof specialist) in my area, ie London (central or east)..
 
bluesun89 said:
tintoverano said:
bluesun89 said:
10 days ago my roof stopped 90% through on the opening sequence, and had to turn off/on engine and try reclosing/opening to make it complete the cycle eventually. Issues seems either at like 90% of the opening sequence (when only windows need to come up, and boot almost closed), or 80% of the closing sequence (when rear window is on top of roof and needs to go back to its position)
Click to expand...

this happens if the battery is not charged enough and there's not enough juice to finish the operation

if you don't have any fault codes, I wouldn't worry about it right now

if your dealer is not specialized in roof issues, you won't get far
Click to expand...

But then, shouldn't such roof issue go away when the engine is running ? (car idle)
Click to expand...

it doesn't help as far as I know, there's not enough ampere regardless - I think the roof operates using ~40A


bluesun89 said:
And this wouldnt explain why I have also been getting random 'red' roof button lights (and sound) while driving, no? (and it also locked down the boot and windows while the red light is on)
Click to expand...

it is probably because of the front roof shell lock needs adjusting or repair

when I bought mine it was winter and snow on the car, I tested the roof and for couple of days I got the bong when the car went over bumps - it went away afterwards for good, probably the lock started working again as expected, keeping the car in the garage
 
Oh yeah that makes sense actually, I was on a 100 mile highway trip on Saturday an i did get the red roof button flash (and bong sound) right after going over a bumpier section of the road - So hopefully if this is it, could be an easy repair
I think 150gbp diagnostic is OK (crossing fingers for a sub 300 bill), just dont want to end up paying 1500gbp.. or them not seeing any fault there / unable to replicate it, which would also be a bummer
 
Fyi - just heard back from the dealer. They diagnosed the fault straight away : faulty microswitch in the rear, which was flicking on/off on its own rather than staying its its on or off position. So a fairly 'easy' fix ; i should have it by tomorrow.

The bad new though (for me) is that although the microswitch costs £20, there is £150 for diagnostics, and another £310 of labor (allegedly they say it takes time to fix, as part of the roof needs to be taken off?) - so it will still cost me a £480 total to change that microswitch..

So i reckon, maybe if someone encounter the same problem and is knowledgeable enough, just change all the microswitch at max £20 a pop and do trial and error, to avoid paying £500
 
bluesun89 said:
Fyi - just heard back from the dealer. They diagnosed the fault straight away : faulty microswitch in the rear, which was flicking on/off on its own rather than staying its its on or off position. So a fairly 'easy' fix ; i should have it by tomorrow.

The bad new though (for me) is that although the microswitch costs £20, there is £150 for diagnostics, and another £310 of labor (allegedly they say it takes time to fix, as part of the roof needs to be taken off?) - so it will still cost me a £480 total to change that microswitch..

So i reckon, maybe if someone encounter the same problem and is knowledgeable enough, just change all the microswitch at max £20 a pop and do trial and error, to avoid paying £500
Click to expand...

A code reader should give more of a clue so you don’t end up changing every microswitch on the car :?
Rob
 
yeah, in my first response to you earlier I presumed you didn't have any fault codes

code reader or laptop + cable + free sw I'd say is a must, if you wanted to save money (I can help you with the latter one, pm me)
 
Thanks - A bit of a bummer to spend that much today, especially knowing its a minor fault ; and I was fancying getting a new car into year-end (now spent £1000 over the past month, with the first £500 going towards PS4 tyres as I ditched the RFTs) ; so maybe now I will keep my 2014 zed a bit longer, and at least the next owner will be all sorted out if I were to sell it
 
I am having the same issue as described above and just wondering how to repair it but not spending fortune on it. If it is a matter of changing micro switch how should I approach it?
 
Andy G said:
I am having the same issue as described above and just wondering how to repair it but not spending fortune on it. If it is a matter of changing micro switch how should I approach it?
Click to expand...
There are many threads in the "E89 problems" section regarding roof faults. There are several recently. If you read these and find the one which is similar to the problems you are experiencing, they will mostly have an answer on what to change.
If you can't find anything with the same symptoms, post a new thread stating what problems you have got and someone will point you in the right direction. Look especially for replies from RobbiZ4, he's the forum guru on roof issues. HTH :thumbsup:
 
What we need is a table of where and how a fault occurs.
For instance i have had.....bong roof impaired whilst closed, rear shell hall fault = break of wire in roof where cables bend.
........roof stuck in boot, boot lid open = connector right boot cyl. had pulled apart.
........roof intermittent stuck half open = salmon relays seem to cure that.
 
flybobbie said:
What we need is a table of where and how a fault occurs.
Click to expand...

Good idea! I've started it as well in earlier times and never ever use it.

But it's much easier:
  • salmon relays should always get replaced every 5-8 years to avoid troubles
  • micro switch coupling lock should always get replaced every 8-10 years
  • battery should always get replaced every 6-10 years
  • the 2 hall sensors on the right coupling lock should be checked for cracked and/or rusty plastic housings

If this package has been completed, in 70% there is only one main issue left:
broken wires in the rear roof shell. Should be repaired on both sides for all 3x2 wires to avoid repeating issues with broken wires.

Leaving 20% for broken hydraulic hoses in the rear roof shell.

The rest is based on water in the trunc (should always be checked at first) as well as violence against the roof package or the trunc lid by the Z4 owners (caused by one of the above listed, missed tasks). :rofl:

Unfortunately, diagnosing/working based on fault codes doesn't lead to success in every case, as sometimes no fault codes will be stored, in other cases WRONG fault codes get stored.
We should set up a half yearly repair happening to train you guys on the roof. :driving: :tumbleweed:
 
Before i replaced the salmon relays, my code reader said several sensors were faulty, lots of red boxes on reader, when they weren't.
Made wonder if the relays were actually the cause, but replacing them cured the problem, all codes cleared.
 
Right, the problem I am having is the message ROOF IS NOT LATCHED. What is actually happening is when I put the roof down it's going thru the process but when the boot is closing the message pops up and sometimes windows are staying down(I can't change it and the annoying signal warning me that the roof is not latched).
Then when I put the roof up all going fine until boot is closing and the same message appears. Back window won't close because I suppose boot is not latched?
This is happening from time to time and sometimes I can go thru the process of open - close roof without any problems but recently that message starts to showing up more frequently makes me wonder what is happening.
I went thru the forum here with people having the same problem(not fully:)). Is this switch problem?
If yes I would be very thankful if someone could guide me how to inspect the issue and solve it.
Many Thanks in advance.
Andy
 
When i had that problem, it was the connector on the boot cylinder right side had slightly pulled apart.
Doesn't appear to have a locking latch or barb. My car had some blue inspection paint on it.
fault.jpg
I pushed it back together, blob super glue and cables ties, no problem since.
 
Andy G said:
Right, the problem I am having is the message ROOF IS NOT LATCHED. What is actually happening is when I put the roof down it's going thru the process but when the boot is closing the message pops up and sometimes windows are staying down(I can't change it and the annoying signal warning me that the roof is not latched).[...]

This is happening from time to time [..]
Click to expand...
In 99.9% of these cases the microswitch coupling lock have to be replaced by new ones. And don't glue anything in the roof's construction! If a housing doesn't locked anymore, replace these housings, as anybody has destroyed it in the past.

Always the same story: get it replaced in advance after 10 years.
 
Andy G said:
Hey RobbiZ4,
Where can I find the microswitch coupling lock in my z4 ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=129556

Look on there. That thread also has a link to another thread where it's all explained. The part numbers for the microswitches for the bootlid (coupling lock) are there too. The switches are not too expensive considering they are BM parts (£16 each).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom