Hardtop Fuse #25 has blown a second time

T

ted928

Member
This is my friend's 2011 E89. The first time Fuse 25 blew, the dealer replaced the fuse, a hall sensor, and closed the roof. Once again the top stopped mid-motion and my friend saw some smoke. The fuse blew. I know that wire damage near the hinge area will cause faults, but can they also blow the fuse or do you think the pump is failing?
I tested both salmon relays repeatedly and they seem fine. I will replace them.
 
Probably blown the CTM ECU…

Main relays should be replaced every 5 years or so
 
ted928 said:
I have read that a sticking relay can kill the pump. Can it also hurt the CTM?
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Sticky relays will burn out the pump and maybe the car.. I'd assume that in that a relay failed all bets would be off to the CTM come what may..and of course who knows what a 'competent' BMW dealer has done!
 
The fuse blew towards the end of the opening cycle. The roof pack had been stowed and secured, the rear module was fully open. I don't know if that is helpful information. I appreciate your help.
 
Without fault code diagnostics you’re stumbling in the dark…an e89 specfic fault code reader is a mandatory part of ownership
 
I removed roof shell #2 and all the covers in the boot and inspected all the wiring. No sign of breakage or overheating. The only issue I spotted was near the battery negative terminal where the sharp crimp was rubbing against a large red hot wire which feeds the terminal block and the front. The rubbing did damage the insulation and the was a very small black area. That could have caused some shorting. I opened the CTM and it looked fine. I installed 2 used salmon relays and successfully operated the top 10 times. I will order new relays and bolts for shell #2. I have ANCEL. If it happens again and ANCEL doesn't provide a cause, I will replace the CTM.

The code I previously got was A699 but I think that is because fuse 25 had blown.
 
ted928 said:
I removed roof shell #2 and all the covers in the boot and inspected all the wiring. No sign of breakage or overheating. The only issue I spotted was near the battery negative terminal where the sharp crimp was rubbing against a large red hot wire which feeds the terminal block and the front. The rubbing did damage the insulation and the was a very small black area. That could have caused some shorting. I opened the CTM and it looked fine. I installed 2 used salmon relays and successfully operated the top 10 times. I will order new relays and bolts for shell #2. I have ANCEL. If it happens again and ANCEL doesn't provide a cause, I will replace the CTM.

The code I previously got was A699 but I think that is because fuse 25 had blown.
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Shorting out the main power feed isn’t a great idea..
 
B21 said:
Main relays should be replaced every 5 years or so
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This period can be extended up to ~10 years, if you open it carefully and check the remaining rest of the internal contacts.

But, this is not a recommendation for Hinz&Kunz, only for techies.:rofl::rofl:
 
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  • Haha
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