Hardtop A68D Error

L

LordLolzeye

Member
Hey,

Today I've repositioned today the inner seals (window seals) because I was having some small leaks.

While I was working, the rear part (the heated window in the back) slowly started going down (which was normal). I went in the cabin, and pressed the buttons to lock it down but I've got an red roof symbol in the dash. Diagnosed it to an A68D error (microswitch or cable error I think). I wiggled the cable area a little bit, managed to get my rear part up on top, tried to close, didn't work, pulled out carly, cleared all error codes, and then i've managed to close it.

Do you have any ideea what might have caused this? Should I cut the protection that is above the wirring to check for the broken cables?

Also, RobbiZ4 sent me this thread
Dach 2 stop closing, throw fault code A68B - my way to upgrade wiring harness
Hi I had problem during closing roof process - the roof pack 2 (one with the glass, which open first/close last) stopped just before reach back lid and throw the fault code A68B, which means: "Mikroschalter Dachschale 2 geschlossen links" I disconnected this switch and tested with...
www.zroadster.com
that has the same problem (but on the left side - as I figured it), am I right?

P.S: I've ordered parts 2 & 3 from here (might as well switch both if i'm taking the hard top down)
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=LM53-USA-04-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&diagId=54_0413
I think it's going to be enough to switch the bad cable out.. should make the hardtop work for a few more years, right?

P.S 2: Anyone has some instructions or nice hints for performing this maintenance on the car?

iYvqdlB.jpg

Thanks in advance, and sorry for this huge message,
Robert
 
Hi mate how did you get on with this any luck in the end or still waiting for a diy write up for how to change the sensor?
 
Hey, so I did some digging, spent some time speaking to a specialist in z4 hardtops (RobbiZ4 if you know him) and I narrowed it down to the "Z4 Syndrome" - because of the bad wire quality BMW uses, they tend to break over time.

Yesterday I've checked all my wires with a multimeter, tested that they work correctly, and after disassembling my right hydraulic arm (where the sensor is located) I found out it had faulty wires. I've ordered the new sensor (around 30$), it should be here in 3-5 days, after that I'll tell you guys if that solved the problem. (Pretty much I've removed the "dead part" from the sensor wire and resoldered the ends back together, it worked for like 10 times perfectly fine till it broke the solder - that area is prone to a lot of stress).
 
LordLolzeye said:
Hey, so I did some digging, spent some time speaking to a specialist in z4 hardtops (RobbiZ4 if you know him) and I narrowed it down to the "Z4 Syndrome" - because of the bad wire quality BMW uses, they tend to break over time.

Yesterday I've checked all my wires with a multimeter, tested that they work correctly, and after disassembling my right hydraulic arm (where the sensor is located) I found out it had faulty wires. I've ordered the new sensor (around 30$), it should be here in 3-5 days, after that I'll tell you guys if that solved the problem. (Pretty much I've removed the "dead part" from the sensor wire and resoldered the ends back together, it worked for like 10 times perfectly fine till it broke the solder - that area is prone to a lot of stress).
Click to expand...

good stuff!
hope it all works for you in the end. i've ordered a fault code reader so i can try and find where the issue is. hopefully it will be of some use.. otherwise i will probably do what you did and start taking the arms apart and checking the cabling.
 
When you check continuity of wires, always give the wires a good waggle.
I had a problem on the ignition leads of a motorbike. The leads were getting on for 20 years old and baked well from the heat of the engine.
After miss firing i took the leads off and tested with a multimeter and they seemed ok.
Back on the bike miss fire.
So tested them by bending back and fourth and sure enough a couple had broke inside, but continuity was seen in their rest state.
 
flybobbie said:
When you check continuity of wires, always give the wires a good waggle.
I had a problem on the ignition leads of a motorbike. The leads were getting on for 20 years old and baked well from the heat of the engine.
After miss firing i took the leads off and tested with a multimeter and they seemed ok.
Back on the bike miss fire.
So tested them by bending back and fourth and sure enough a couple had broke inside, but continuity was seen in their rest state.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip!
Already did that, and weird as it seems, the only problem in wire continuity was at the microswitch. I've reordered the part and I'm going to fit it, hopefully, this week. I'll be back with an update as soon as I finish installing it.
 
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