:lol:bigwinn said:What a lovely flower
Thrustyjust said:Its a little fiddly to adjust. In what way do you think it needs adjusting ? They arent particularly great anyway. If the lever pulls up more than 6 or 7 clicks, then it may need a tweek.
There are plenty of ways of doing this , involving winding up the adjusters in the rear hubs by locating them with the wheels off ( easier) and using a small torch, locate the adjuster through the wheel bolt hole, then widning until they bind and then unwinding nine 'spins' but I found that by winding up until the shoes start to bind on the drums, then wind back a couple of turns and they become free, usually seems to work ok. Keeping the shoes near the drum face will also help keep the brake surface from getting rusty, which I found on mine and I had to change the discs to start again on the drum surface. I even, when driving just pull the lever up for a few yards, so it keeps the drum clean even if the car beeps at you when you do.
One thing to consider is that the shoes, pivots and drums are also in good condition. So, if this hasnt been looked at for a long time, just cleaning out the drums and emery cloth the shoes can make it work better. You obviously need to remove the brake caliper and disc to gain access to this to be checked. Then reset the shoes with the adjusters through the wheel bolt hole again.
Like I said, its a bit fiddly and finding the adjusters with a small torch and screwdriver can test patience but the process to adjust isnt too bad.
Adjusting the cables is a way people mask the proper adjustment in the drums. I am yet to adjust any cables on my car as adjusting the drums made the handbrake adjust up and it is now 4 clicks to on but you then need the 5th click to lock . My MOT last week, the tester said it was a good handbrake as we watched the bar go up the screen during the test.bg1 said:Thrustyjust said:Its a little fiddly to adjust. In what way do you think it needs adjusting ? They arent particularly great anyway. If the lever pulls up more than 6 or 7 clicks, then it may need a tweek.
There are plenty of ways of doing this , involving winding up the adjusters in the rear hubs by locating them with the wheels off ( easier) and using a small torch, locate the adjuster through the wheel bolt hole, then widning until they bind and then unwinding nine 'spins' but I found that by winding up until the shoes start to bind on the drums, then wind back a couple of turns and they become free, usually seems to work ok. Keeping the shoes near the drum face will also help keep the brake surface from getting rusty, which I found on mine and I had to change the discs to start again on the drum surface. I even, when driving just pull the lever up for a few yards, so it keeps the drum clean even if the car beeps at you when you do.
One thing to consider is that the shoes, pivots and drums are also in good condition. So, if this hasnt been looked at for a long time, just cleaning out the drums and emery cloth the shoes can make it work better. You obviously need to remove the brake caliper and disc to gain access to this to be checked. Then reset the shoes with the adjusters through the wheel bolt hole again.
Like I said, its a bit fiddly and finding the adjusters with a small torch and screwdriver can test patience but the process to adjust isnt too bad.
Are you saying you can just wind the bit in the back wheels without worrying about the locking unlocking bit under the handbrake?
Dont you live in a flat country ?Chris_D said:Just park it in an appropriate gear.
Can't remember the last time I used my handbrake.
:wink: