handbrake
- Thread starter macclad
- Start date
North West Surrey
Good guide here https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_Z4M/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting.htm
Pay particular attention to the service setting that has to be set and locked underneath the handbrake lever, done from inside the car with the handle gaiter removed to access it. You can access the brake adjuster ratchet wheels that adjust the shoes inside the drum part of the disc by removing one wheel bolt and looking in the hole to find the position of the ratchet adjuster. Use a long flat blade screwdriver to move the adjuster. Follow the Pelican Parts instructions to get the settings right. You will be aiming to adjust the shoes up so they lock the rear wheel, once you achieve that the adjuster is backed off until there is no friction with the shoes rubbing on the drum Pelican Parts say back it off 8 clicks. Once you have carried out the adjustment on both sides return to the handbrake lever and release the service setting.
Operate the handbrake a few times to check operation and ensure it can lock the wheels when fully set.
Should you want to check the condition of the brake shoes inside the disc then you will have to remove the brake caliper and the carrier to get the disc off, you will also have to back the adjusters off so the shoes will be clear of any inside lip that has formed on the drum so the disc can be pulled off. I took my adjusters off and put a dab of copper grease on their internal threads to ensure they won't seize up in the future. My shoes were fine loads left on them.
Pay particular attention to the service setting that has to be set and locked underneath the handbrake lever, done from inside the car with the handle gaiter removed to access it. You can access the brake adjuster ratchet wheels that adjust the shoes inside the drum part of the disc by removing one wheel bolt and looking in the hole to find the position of the ratchet adjuster. Use a long flat blade screwdriver to move the adjuster. Follow the Pelican Parts instructions to get the settings right. You will be aiming to adjust the shoes up so they lock the rear wheel, once you achieve that the adjuster is backed off until there is no friction with the shoes rubbing on the drum Pelican Parts say back it off 8 clicks. Once you have carried out the adjustment on both sides return to the handbrake lever and release the service setting.
Operate the handbrake a few times to check operation and ensure it can lock the wheels when fully set.
Should you want to check the condition of the brake shoes inside the disc then you will have to remove the brake caliper and the carrier to get the disc off, you will also have to back the adjusters off so the shoes will be clear of any inside lip that has formed on the drum so the disc can be pulled off. I took my adjusters off and put a dab of copper grease on their internal threads to ensure they won't seize up in the future. My shoes were fine loads left on them.
I found it easier to remove the wheel to adjust the shoe adjuster. You could see better with the torch. I actually took the disc off the car and found the drum surface was pretty rusty. I cleaned it up with emery cloth and then cleaned the shoes up as well. Then refitted back on and adjusted through the hole. I would regulary pull the handbrake on when moving ( ignore the beep on the dash!!) to make sure the surfaces stay clean , as handbrakes are usually only used when stationary , they dont clean the drum surfaces , as the disc brake stops the car . Not tricky , but the adjuster is a little bit of a fiddle.
macclad said:
I interpreted this as the brake working ok, but not being held by the lever ratchet. Can you feel whether there are other, worn teeth before the “last notch”?
Hopefully I am wrong though - adjustment is far easier than replacing the lever (and it’s free).
I did this the other week as one of my adjuster was seized shut - so nearly 0 handbraking on the left hand side.
If you have difficulty trying to adjust via the hole because it seems the adjuster won't budge, I would suggest you take the caliper + rotor off. You can take the caliper off with the bracket together so you dont need to regrease your pins etc. 16mm bolts - I couldnt fit my socket on 1 of the 2 bolts due to the caliper/brake line being in the way and had to use a closed ended wrench.
As others have suggested, grease those adjusters if you take them out - it will make it a breeze to adjust later through the hole! Get some grease on the spring as well that "notches" onto the adjuster.
If you have difficulty trying to adjust via the hole because it seems the adjuster won't budge, I would suggest you take the caliper + rotor off. You can take the caliper off with the bracket together so you dont need to regrease your pins etc. 16mm bolts - I couldnt fit my socket on 1 of the 2 bolts due to the caliper/brake line being in the way and had to use a closed ended wrench.
As others have suggested, grease those adjusters if you take them out - it will make it a breeze to adjust later through the hole! Get some grease on the spring as well that "notches" onto the adjuster.