Haha well usually I wouldn't reveal but here goes...
Ok so the sunset was fairly orange but wanted to add more drama. First up a polariser to be able to use a smaller F no. Most modern cameras F11 is the sweet spot. Using a small F also creates the sunburst effect (the streams of light) Using a polariser means I could reduce the exposure for the sky then what I did was add an orange graduated filter basically a sunset filter which is darker at the top and lighter at the bottom. Orange and blue are opposing colours or cold and warm but together add the orange/red/purple hue to the aesthetic.
Together it allowed the exposure to be around 5 stops less for the sky and 2 stops for the foreground allowing a shutter speed of 0.5sec to a second. This adds movement in the cloud and lake. But the filters keep the sky from being over exposed and the foreground to be under exposed or vice versa.
What you see is straight out of the camera bit of contrast and a high pass sharpening technique and that's it.
What I like! less time at the machine and filters are an integral part of my kit don't go anywhere without them, they are life savers 90% of the time as most situations are completely unpredictable you can compensate.
Hope this helps! Usually I would use a ND I have them all the way to welding helmet glass for shooting 30+ secs in bright sunlight. But the sunset filter does the same thing but accentuates the colour.
Ok so the sunset was fairly orange but wanted to add more drama. First up a polariser to be able to use a smaller F no. Most modern cameras F11 is the sweet spot. Using a small F also creates the sunburst effect (the streams of light) Using a polariser means I could reduce the exposure for the sky then what I did was add an orange graduated filter basically a sunset filter which is darker at the top and lighter at the bottom. Orange and blue are opposing colours or cold and warm but together add the orange/red/purple hue to the aesthetic.
Together it allowed the exposure to be around 5 stops less for the sky and 2 stops for the foreground allowing a shutter speed of 0.5sec to a second. This adds movement in the cloud and lake. But the filters keep the sky from being over exposed and the foreground to be under exposed or vice versa.
What you see is straight out of the camera bit of contrast and a high pass sharpening technique and that's it.
What I like! less time at the machine and filters are an integral part of my kit don't go anywhere without them, they are life savers 90% of the time as most situations are completely unpredictable you can compensate.
Hope this helps! Usually I would use a ND I have them all the way to welding helmet glass for shooting 30+ secs in bright sunlight. But the sunset filter does the same thing but accentuates the colour.
