Good Independent for CDV Job

I clamped off the hose close to the CDV meaning that much less fluid was watsed. once i had put everything back together and checked for leaks i bled the clutch.

the bleed nipple is just above the CDV location, just open it and get someone to press on the clutch, close it and get them to release (otherwise air is sucked back in). i hardly had to do mine, it was done in a couple of minutes.

after i dried everything off and left it on the axle stands (cup of tea time) with a rag underneath to see if anything was leaking before i let it back down.
 
Ah right, sounds easy enough.

I'm forever bleeding hydraulic disc brakes on my mountainbikes, so should be OK with this. Didn't know where the bleed nipple was. So, you don't need to add extra/replacement fluid when you're doing this? I don't even know what sort of fluid is used in the clutch? (probably "clutch" fluid I guess...)

Also, what do folk use to clamp off the hose close to the CDV?
 
I had mine done at East Oxford Garage, where a friend of mine works. Went over with the instructions printed from here and we worked it out together, now he knows how to mod the CDV too.
Definitely recommend for the CDV if you are in Oxford.


PawnSacrifice said:
Tired said:
I'm driving to Autotech performance this weekend in Telford. (1.5 hours from me)

I'm having a service and getting my CDV removed. I can let you know how that goes as he was recommended on here. Although might be too far away for you... Prob 2.5 hours? But at least you'll be driving an //M all the way there!!

Tired... I drive about half an hour to go to Didcot Autos - which are just down the road from you (although I know Autotech have a great reputation :thumbsup: )

EDIT - Sorry release that doesn't help you Angus, just wanted to give Tired the heads up for future.
 
i used a set of mole grips with some wood to clamp the line off.

you may need to top the fluid up a little, depending on how much you use. its just brake/clutch fluid (clutch uses fuel from the brake fluid reservoir) that you can get from halfords etc etc. i didnt need any.


just.....


STEP 1. jack car and put on axle stands
STEP 2. locate CDV and clamp it off
STEP 3. use a spanner to hold the CDV and one to loosen the CDV from the metal fluid pipe (you will see what i mean)
STEP 4. use a spanner to hold the nut on the clutch pipe and loosen CDV with another.
STEP 5. put the pipe back into the holding bracket for the CDV and carefully with you hands join the two parts back together, minus the CDV.
STEP 6. once you are happy you are not going to cross thread just nip up with spanners, remove mole grips, dry/wipe off fluid and check for leaks.
STEP 7. CUP OF TEA
STEP 8. check for leaks again then bleed (with help from a mate to push the pedal)

STEP 9. Lower car from jacks, test drive to feel the difference then throw your CDV in the bin!


honestly not worth paying for!

hope this helps guys :thumbsup:
 
Excellent, thanks for that - sounds easy enough. Famous last words...

TBH where the clutch fluid came from wasn't something I'd ever thought about before, good to know!
 
a11y said:
Excellent, thanks for that - sounds easy enough. Famous last words...

TBH where the clutch fluid came from wasn't something I'd ever thought about before, good to know!


i didnt know either until i read that 'how to' link i posted earlier. there is a diagram of the location of the bleed nipple on there
 
Rudd_2002 said:
honestly not worth paying for!

It is if you have no jacks and its snowing :)

Mine is being done as part of my i2 service. Seeing as the car will be up in the air anyway...
 
you can see why ur gettin it done as its going to the garage anyway.

but most friendly neighbours have a jack and i did mine just before new year in the snow, a wet arse and 30 minutes of discomfort is worth every minute for the difference in gear change :D
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. :thumbsup:

I could be tempted to do it myself - I'm sure one of my friends has some ramps I could use. Then I just need to go to a dealer to pay through the nose for the brake fluid change and the all important stamp.
 
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