Gearbox / Diff oil
- Thread starter gemeit
- Start date
First you have to raise the car to get underneath.
Then remove the plastic trim panel from underneath the body.
Then remove the filler plug on the side, it's a torx fitting, but can't remember what size, so have a set to hand.
Only when that has been removed, then remove the drain plug from bottom.
My drain plug rounded off! Stupid torx fitting.
I have one of those engine oil drain pumps so i used that to drain and refill through the fill plug.
Then just refit plug and plastic cover.
Hardest part for me is raising the car, i had three wheels on a curb, the fourth jacked up and wood placed under wheel to level.
Then remove the plastic trim panel from underneath the body.
Then remove the filler plug on the side, it's a torx fitting, but can't remember what size, so have a set to hand.
Only when that has been removed, then remove the drain plug from bottom.
My drain plug rounded off! Stupid torx fitting.
I have one of those engine oil drain pumps so i used that to drain and refill through the fill plug.
Then just refit plug and plastic cover.
Hardest part for me is raising the car, i had three wheels on a curb, the fourth jacked up and wood placed under wheel to level.
flybobbie said:
Thanks for that. I plan to use this method to raise the car. I'll have whatever clearance that there is already under the Z4 and the 41cm that I can raise with the jack stands I have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV_HdyFuc64
Yes the old maxim is to try the fill plug first. If the fill plug can't be removed and then you drain - no means to refill.
My plan when I get the car is to do oil changes on engine, gearbox (it's a manual) and the differential. Clearly having some decent undercar access is a must. I have the syphon pump for the engine oil (I've used that on my other cars) but I want to do a full access drain and check for metal pieces..
If you change the drain/sump plugs for the diff/gearbox and engine - do they have magnetic parts to attract metal filings? I was going to buy all these plugs new from BMW.
Regards, Mark
Nictrix said:
I hadn't done my research on the diff on the 23i so that is interesting to hear - that makes it potentially a non-diy operation for me. I'm thinking that sucking alone ( :rofl: phnar..phnar :rofl: ) won't get all that all out. Taking it off and letting gravity do the job would be the way then....
Nictrix said:
Just checked in repair manual. There is a plug with the typical hex bolt, low down (part number is 33176760337) In the manual it states 'add oil up to the lower edge of opening for screw plug'. Now the question is - is there an efficient method for evacuating all the rear diff oil out? BMW of course talk about Lifetime Oils but as we all know their idea of Lifetime is until the warranty runs out...
Any thoughts/input folks?
flybobbie said:Tipping the car on it's tail is not an option.Ouroux71 said:You're confident that pumping out will be good enough? Just weighing up my choices....flybobbie said:
:rofl: No I was weighing up against not doing it or having someone remove the differential to allow for it to be tipped up - clearly a much more complicated/read expensive option...
Could be wrong..
:rofl:
RobbiZ4 said:
To be honest, why do you want to change the diff oil by that very low mileage. It isn't a task to be done weekly. :rofl:
Just for peace of mind and then I have covered all the bases when buying a used vehicle. Some diff oil and a new plug and seal and I'll know that part is good for a long time.
I agree it may be overkill....
PS: Love Munich - we were just there for a family holiday before the Virus. Love Bavaria full stop... My Z4 will be going there when the crazy times are over
And if you would by another used car with let's say 50 miles, you would do that as well? :rofl:Ouroux71 said:
Pardon, but that task is nonsense, not worth the additional risk.
Better invest the time and money into a check/replacement of the roof hydraulic loom. That will get weak and will break depending on the age of the car, not the mileage.
https://www.staiger-neuffen.de/bmw-z4-e89-dach-notdienst/
It's funny the advice that is passed around.
In biking regular oil changes suggested due to the gear box ripping the molecules apart and reducing the effectiveness of oils.
So i normally replace every 3000 miles. OK the bike is probably worked harder than the car.
Yet we are quite happy to take BMW advice that gearbox oils are lifetime (say 60k) and diff say 100k.
In biking regular oil changes suggested due to the gear box ripping the molecules apart and reducing the effectiveness of oils.
So i normally replace every 3000 miles. OK the bike is probably worked harder than the car.
Yet we are quite happy to take BMW advice that gearbox oils are lifetime (say 60k) and diff say 100k.
