Garage size

[Pondy]

I have been doing some preliminary drawings for my next garage (when I move again). I want a triple width to be able to fit three cars comfortably with room to manoeuvre (myself and tools not cars).
An average car is about 2000mm wide and 4500mm long, so was thinking of 8500mm wide and 6000mm deep (long). Do you think this is over the top?
For permitted development (no planning needed) the ridge of the roof must be no higher than 4000mm, so am trying to work out the best compromise between a decent roof pitch and useable internal size. I will be constructing it from timber and will have plenty of space, so theoretically it can be any size. Any thoughts on an ideal size?

 

[Mr Tidy]

That sounds like a good size for what you want, subject to whatever else you'll need to store in there like tool-trolleys, work-bench, etc.

The best garage I've ever had was the one a mate and I built. It was only a single but was 3,000mm wide and just over 6,000 long and had a pitched roof with storage. I could get a car in and open the door to get out plus a small bench and 3 motorbikes - I still miss it.

 

[Smartbear]

You could tack a workshop on the side so you’ve somewhere to throw spanners away from the cars? :?
Rob

 

[axelleveau]

Any chance you can fit a lift under that roof. That would be great to work on underside of the cars

 

[Pondy]

Any chance you can fit a lift under that roof. That would be great to work on underside of the cars

I really, really want a lift but unless I go for planning the ridge height will make it too difficult. I have done a few simple calcs; car needs to raise to 6ft (without doing my back in) and an average car is 4.5ft high, so clear height nees to be 10.5 ft (3.2m). Doesn't give enough even with attic trusses which are very expensive.
The beauty of standard trusses is that I can board the ceiling and insulate it to keep me toasty all year.
I could make my own trussed roof but the calcs for imposed and deflected loads gets a little too complicated when there is a big un-supported area (for a lift).

 

[pvr]

I built this one as 1200 by 600. It is not deep enough so if I did it again I would add another meter inside as I can’t open the boot without hitting the garage door.

The other garage I built is 700 by 750 which is far more comfortable to open the boot and walk around the car, especially with tool cabinets.

 

[Pondy]

You could tack a workshop on the side so you’ve somewhere to throw spanners away from the cars?

That is a good point Roberto. I could tack a workshop area on the rear or side with a pent roof just for spanner throwing and general tomfoolery.

 

[pvr]

Boarding and insulating is important, I am still working on it but makes a huge difference.

 

[PerryGunn]

Any chance you can fit a lift under that roof. That would be great to work on underside of the cars

I really, really want a lift but unless I go for planning the ridge height will make it too difficult. I have done a few simple calcs; car needs to raise to 6ft (without doing my back in) and an average car is 4.5ft high, so clear height nees to be 10.5 ft (3.2m). Doesn't give enough even with attic trusses which are very expensive.
The beauty of standard trusses is that I can board the ceiling and insulate it to keep me toasty all year.
I could make my own trussed roof but the calcs for imposed and deflected loads gets a little too complicated when there is a big un-supported area (for a lift).

Add a shallow pit (with cover) in one bay, lift then doesn't need to raise the full 2m

 

[Pondy]

I built this one as 1200 by 600. It is not deep enough so if I did it again I would add another meter inside as I can’t open the boot without hitting the garage door.

The last two garages I built (not the one I have at present as it was developer built) were both 8m deep by 6m wide. That was a perfect size as a double garage with room at one end to throw spanners. If I built it 8m x 8m it would be a perfect size, just look wrong from an aesthetical view. A big square wooden box which is not right.

 

[Pondy]

Add a shallow pit (with cover) in one bay, lift then doesn't need to raise the full 2m

I live in the Fens, Perry. I could keep fish in even the shallowest (is that a word) of pits. Our water table is very low.

 

[Pondy]

Boarding and insulating is important, I am still working on it but makes a huge difference.

Good lad. Not finished boarding but got the telly sorted. :lol:

 

[Mr Tidy]

That is a good point Roberto. I could tack a workshop area on the rear or side with a pent roof just for spanner throwing and general tomfoolery.

That sounds like a great idea to keep any dust out of the garage.

 

[PerryGunn]

Add a shallow pit (with cover) in one bay, lift then doesn't need to raise the full 2m

I live in the Fens, Perry. I could keep fish in even the shallowest (is that a word) of pits. Our water table is very low.

You can get waterproof fiberglass pit liners with built-in sump for a float-activated pump

 

[MikeyH]

Don’t forget the tea making area.

 

[john-e89]

Add a shallow pit (with cover) in one bay, lift then doesn't need to raise the full 2m

I live in the Fens, Perry. I could keep fish in even the shallowest (is that a word) of pits. Our water table is very low.

You can get waterproof fiberglass pit liners with built-in sump for a float-activated pump

What I was going to suggest Pondy. I put a submersible pump in the cellar in one of my rentals easy 6yrs ago and it's fighting fit, not missed a beat. Keeps the cellar dry as snuff. You wouldn't regret a pit if you haven't got height. Do it.

 

[jock156]

Hi Pondrew, Planning & Building Regs is my line of work

Eaves should be no more than 2.5m and ridge no more than 4m so you are correct on that.

However, as soon as you go over 30m2 that triggers a Building Warrant application. Quick calculation 8.5x6m is 51m2. So you will have to factor that in. That then leads to how close will you be building to the boundary. If it’s within 1m of any boundary and you are using timber then it will become expensive due to spread of flame etc.

Move said garage to 1.1m away from the garage and all is good....... or change the material

The application can be done in 2 ways...............

1. Building Notice = you pay Building Control about £700 and crack on making sure you are up to speed with current regs etc.

OR

2. Full Plans = someone like me designs a garage/ workshop/ cart shed and provides a specification from foundations to ridge. Building Control inspects the plans and approve them if they comply. Then anyone can build from the plans. You pay £270 to Building Control to inspect the plans. Once on site you pay a further £430 inspection charge to cover the whole job.

So both ways work out at about £700 but the Full Plans application you would have to pay someone to produce the plans!

I hope that makes sense and if you want anymore info PM me and I’ll give you my mobile number for a chat

Only to happy to help

 

[jock156]

Forgot to add I’d imagine you are putting electrics in so you will need a Part P certificate signed off by a competent person what ever application you chose.

 

[Pondy]

Thanks Jock.
I am aware of the Building Regs and electrical requirements, I have designed and built a house from scratch, been an amateur renovator for many years and also work in the building industry.
I wasn't aware of the Building Warrant requirement, though. I did a quick search and only found mentioned in Scotland. The national planning portal makes no mention of area of a structure for permitted development that I found, only the eaves, ridge heights and percentage of plot coverage.
I built a 48m2 garage a few years ago, this only required building regs approval. My local council didn't require anything else.
If it comes to it and this is an issue, I would just build two separate buildings below the limits.

 

[jock156]

This is a screen shot from the planning portal