Has anyone had an issue with a oil leak at the oil drain fitting attached to the drilled oil pan? G-Power instructions direct that the drain fitting be installed over the drilled hole and attached with a Loctite epoxy putty, and further secured with two bolts screwed into a drilled and tapped hole in the pan. I'm about to start this installation adventure, and I'm a little concerned about the durability of this attachment. Thanks for your help, Ted.
G-Power Supercharger
- Thread starter wyshyvanuk
- Start date
Yeah....Shabib Saihati from the Kingdom had installed one of these kits in (I believe) 2011. He recommended welding, as well. He didn't actually say he had a leak, but the implication was there. If I pull the pan, I'll be tempted to change the rod bearings with only 45K miles on the clock. Not a terrible idea, but I was hoping to postpone for a while.
Oooooh....AN fittings.
Oooooh....AN fittings.
Nothing wrong with a bulkhead fitting, but both that and welding need the pan off the car. I used a fitting on my last steel pan I did a turbo conversion on.
Having spent decades stopping leaks on race cars, the idea of using epoxy and screws doesn't sit well. Just how much work is it to remove the oil pan anyway? Guess I'll have to do it eventually to do the rod shells but hopefully not for a few more years.
Having spent decades stopping leaks on race cars, the idea of using epoxy and screws doesn't sit well. Just how much work is it to remove the oil pan anyway? Guess I'll have to do it eventually to do the rod shells but hopefully not for a few more years.
From an unrelated post: "To change oil pan, support engine with engine bar, take out front suspension and subframe, remove power steering pump, Remove bolts and oil pan." Tedious, at best. I did find what amounts to a very high temperature "solder" that melts at about 750 degrees F. I'll probably go with the epoxy, but keep that solder as a backup. Thanks!!
wyshyvanuk said:
Hi wyshyvanuk! Did you finish installing your supercharger? is the hole still good?
