Fuse help

RAYK47

RAYK47

Active member
 Hertfordshire
Hi all i am installing a dashcam and am looking for the best fuse numbers to install i need a switched and a perm live.

no8 is for the cig lighter and i think is switched? i dont see any issue with this one.
Was looking for the hazard light/indicator fuse for perm live but i cant make out which one it is?

Another option for perm live was the seat controls (20, 45,46), the chairs can move without having the key in the ignition. However can i use any of these fuses or only a specific one?

Can anyone who has a dashcam tell me which fuses you used?
 
Not sure how much help this is as I can’t remember which fuse I used for the switched live (possibly the cigarette one) but I did struggle finding a permanent live when the car went to sleep, so in the end I ran a live straight from the battery.
 
Thanks chippie.

Did you have to run it from the boot or did you use the charging point under the bonnet? I would prefer to use a fuse live to make it easier (I am sure you would have as well :rofl: )
 
As I had the trim removed for fitting the rear dash cam I ran the wire in there and then down and into the battery compartment.
 
I took both the permanent and switch live from the fuse box, although off hand I can’t remember which fuses they were. To test for permanent live I waited about 30 mins or so until all the circuits powered down and then tested the fuses to find one which had a permanent live. There really is no need to take the feed direct from the battery. I believe the cigarette lighter / 12v socket fuse powers off after 30 mins or so.
 
OK after discussions with AnubisZed the conclusion is (for anyone interested or planning similar work)

62 for perm live
8 for switched

i intend to give this a try at the weekend.
 
Just found this on the web, total lunacy if you ask me but something to consider when hard wiring a dash cam:

https://www.thesun.co.uk/motors/27969337/drivers-warned-must-tell-insurer-wired-gadget-fine/
 
Silverstar said:
Just found this on the web, total lunacy if you ask me but something to consider when hard wiring a dash cam:

https://www.thesun.co.uk/motors/27969337/drivers-warned-must-tell-insurer-wired-gadget-fine/
Click to expand...
Sensationalised story, made up by mixing different laws and trying to make you believe something else. Typical gutter press click bait bollox.
Never seen an option, when filling the insurance quote, for a hard wired dashcam, only ever if I have one or not.
There is no reason to touch a dashcam while driving, only to lock a video (some have voice control and some with a separate button).
 
AnubisZed said:
Silverstar said:
Just found this on the web, total lunacy if you ask me but something to consider when hard wiring a dash cam:

https://www.thesun.co.uk/motors/27969337/drivers-warned-must-tell-insurer-wired-gadget-fine/
Click to expand...
Sensationalised story, made up by mixing different laws and trying to make you believe something else. Typical gutter press click bait bollox.
Never seen an option, when filling the insurance quote, for a hard wired dashcam, only ever if I have one or not.
There is no reason to touch a dashcam while driving, only to lock a video (some have voice control and some with a separate button).
Click to expand...

That article in the Sun is the second time I’ve read about declaring a hardwire dashcam. I saw it somewhere else too, basically if you hardwire your dashcam you have to declare it as a mod to your insurance company. If you don’t your insurance could refuse any claim. Bonkers really, no sense behind it.
 
The thing is, define "Hardwired"
To me it means a fully permanent fixing, either crimped or soldered. Whereas the kits you get for dashcams that call them hardwired, are in fact fuse piggyback connection points, and so by definition they are removable.

But my.point was that that story is pure scaremongering click bait. Doesn't matter if its appeared somewhere else, it's no different to all the other bull that the press post these days, a slight element of truth thrown together with a load of exaggerated crap.

But as I've said, I've seen the option for a dashcam, but never an option for it being hardwired whenever I've filled out the insurance questionnaire. So if they don't ask for it, or give the option, then it can't legally be a get-out clause for them.
That story is putting different laws together, that are for different reasons, and trying to scare the public... like always!
 
Ok so I have been looking to finish the installation and I have hit a snag.

I know the fuse box is a pain but I seem to be having additional issues not encountered by the YouTube videos I have watched.

I seem to have an additional loom that I have not seen on any of the vids I have watched. This loom is stopping me pulling the fuse box down far enough to pull out.

IMG-20240518-WA0006.jpeg

And the part on the right is very high so stopping me pulling it out.

IMG-20240518-WA0008.jpeg


Any ideas? I don't want to force anything and pull something out or worse break it.
 
I had to same issue with mine, I unplugged the connector and repossessed its run, just to note when you unplug the connector the wipers will start and I think the alarm went off and the hazards flashed.
 
Yep - that loom is there on mine too.

You just gotta be brave & wiggle it down until you cam slide it forwards - it does eventually.

Horrible design.
 
UPDATE.....

OK so following on from the initial post here I can categorically confirm that Fuse 62 works absolutely fine for the permanent supply, as does fuse 63. This is because these are non-controlled circuits, ie; they do not switch off after a certain amount of time (normally about 15 minutes).

Now there are other fuses that are also on this ring of permanent fuses BUT some of them I'd seriously advise against pulling to fit a piggy-back fuse holder, eg; any fuse that feeds the FRM. You could end up with a whole barrel of trouble if you blow your FRM, which can very easily happen with pulling and then re-inserting the fuse feeding it. That is why I've listed the two above, F62 feeds the Function Control Centre (the roof light assembly), which is a fairly safe one to disconnect and F63 feeds the adaptive suspension and is a live point even you don't have adaptive suspension.

And for the switched supply, then Fuse 8 is perfectly fine as it supplies the cigar/12v socket

This, obviously, pertains to dashcams that have Parking Guard, dashcams with out it would then only require the Fuse 8 to turn the dashcam on when the car is started.

Hope that all helps :thumbsup:
 
thanks for all your help Dave

i did install it at the weekend and it seems to work very well. i am still playing about with the parking mode as i have not perfected it yet. I think that is more about me getting the settings right.
 
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